Replace Oil Cooler lines with AN lines?

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texas tough

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have you thought abt making and selling these, I would buy a set for a reasonable price.
I did a similair set up a while back on A truck, I flared the aluminum tubing by heating it up, then gradually flaring it out. PITA..!!! BUT IT WORKED.. I used flare fittings to join the tubing . I imagine I could make some out of copper tube alot easier, and do a double flare so it would be stronger. a flex hose would be so much better though as copper work hardens and cracks over time with too much flexing.
 
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texas tough

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as soon as I saw the ****** push in fitting set up it came with I didnt trust it,. if that tube pops out, u will lose oil like a stuck pig.. engine will seize before you even get a warning.

I bet a good hydraulic hose shop could make a nice set if u bring them all the fittings so they can get the sizes.
 

texas tough

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Getting new high pressure hose and fittings is the way to go.

I forgot the sizes, but we used high pressure hose and JIC fittings on our gmt400 and gmt800 trucks. The factory crimp sucks and anyone in colder climates is especially familiar with leaky cooler/power steering pressure lines.

We just replaced the factory rubber and retained the hard lines. Zero leaks ever since.

Sent from my throttle body injected galaxy note3
how did u make the connections from the hoses to the lines?
 

El Tigre

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Tubes get AN-08 nuts/sleeves with a SINGLE 37 degree flare.
Use AN-08 fittings/hose of your choice.
I use/recommend Aeroquip "socketless" hose/fittings.
You must be registered for see images attach
 

Schurkey

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JIC fittings


8 AN male to Tube Adapter
8 AN Hose to Female -8 AN

AN-08 AN-08 teflon/stainless....

extra AN and MS stuff. AN filter side. AN tube nuts. funky AN adapters

JIC fittings are 37 degree same as AN and MS.

AN-08 nuts/sleeves
Use AN-08 fittings/hose of your choice.
"AN" (Army/Navy) has been obsolete for so long that it's virtually impossible to buy. Genuine "AN" was military/aerospace grade hardware, the specifications were written by the folks who bought $400 hammers. The stuff was wildly expensive. It really only entered the race-car world by virtue of "govenment surplus auctions"; and take-offs from scrapped airplanes.

Despite my e-mails to Summit to stop their false advertising, what they're selling is NOT "AN" hardware. What they're selling is the modern version of "JIC"; (Joint Industry Council) industrial-grade stuff, not aerospace-grade. JIC is a similarly-obsolete spec; but more-accurate than "AN" in terms of describing quality. "AN" and "JIC" used the same taper angle, and the same thread pitches--but not, for example, the same thread FORM along with other quality differences. The inspection and certification for the aerospace-quality fittings is worlds ahead of what's used on industrial-grade fittings. In other words, you could use military/aerospace hardware on your hot-rod (if you can afford it) but you can't use industrial-grade hardware on your rocket-ship.

For those of us buying plumbing supplies for ground-based vehicles, the industrial-grade "JIC-equivalent" hardware is plenty expensive and entirely satisfactory. I might not want to use it on a space shuttle or fighter jet, but it's totally fine for cars, trucks, and buses.
 

Erik the Awful

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Arguing AN vs JIC is like arguing motor vs engine. It's been in common parlance so long that you need to just accept it. If someone says AN, you know what they're saying, even if you don't like it.
 

jaydee1445

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Found out I had ordered regular fittings and PTFE takes different fitting. I confirmed parts were correct before ordering but was told wrong info by customer service.
Support made it right by sending the right hose out no charge.

correct hose is SUM-230810 - Summit Racing™ Stainless Steel Hose

 
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kennythewelder

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Brain Fart EDIT : I left off 2 fitting on original post

Radiator is leaking so I figured I would replace leaky lines while it's apart. Found I should be able to do it with 6 fitting from Summit.


SUM-2200078 - Summit Racing™ 8 AN male to Tube Adapter (radiator end) $9.99 2ea $19.98
You must be registered for see images attach

SUM-220890 Summit Racing™ 8 AN Hose to Female -8 AN (radiator end) $8.99 2ea $17.98
You must be registered for see images attach

SUM-240102 - Summit Racing™ 8 Hose Ends to 3/8 NPT (Filter end) $9.99 2ea $19.98
You must be registered for see images attach

SUM-220992 - Summit Racing™ braided stainless PTFE Hose 10ft $61.99 1ea $61.99\
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picked up filter adapter gaskets also.
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Dariusz Salomon

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Brain Fart EDIT : I left off 2 fitting on original post

Radiator is leaking so I figured I would replace leaky lines while it's apart. Found I should be able to do it with 6 fitting from Summit.


SUM-2200078 - Summit Racing™ 8 AN male to Tube Adapter (radiator end) $9.99 2ea $19.98
You must be registered for see images attach

SUM-220890 Summit Racing™ 8 AN Hose to Female -8 AN (radiator end) $8.99 2ea $17.98
You must be registered for see images attach

SUM-240102 - Summit Racing™ 8 Hose Ends to 3/8 NPT (Filter end) $9.99 2ea $19.98
You must be registered for see images attach

SUM-220992 - Summit Racing™ braided stainless PTFE Hose 10ft $61.99 1ea $61.99\
You must be registered for see images attach

picked up filter adapter gaskets also.
So correct me if I'm wrong-you spliced in 2200078 on original lines going into radiator(you used the bits) then used female to attach hose to 2200078 and then hose went to an8 with 3/8 direct to the filter adapter. The first hise was wrong-you used the later one without nylon tube inside-is that correct? I'm asking cause I want to do similar/same thing.
 

SkyHighColorado

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Hey I don’t log in here much these days, but if you guys are interested I could make a write up of exactly how I made mine years ago.
-you definitely need a 37 degree flare tool. But if you can find what that fitting from the factory lines to radiator is and just adapt it to a 90 degree -8an fitting then you could skip the metal tube completely.

Update, many miles and years later. Still perfect.
 

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