Cross threaded spark plug

So I was attempting to put my spark plug back in and was obviously not being careful enough and cross threaded the thread in the block. Is this something that I will have to pull the engine out and take it apart to fix? Has anyone ever done this?
1996 4.3L V6

Get a "spark plug thread chaser"
Make sure you get the correct size and thread for your plugs.
There are a lot of different sizes and thteads available.
Throw out the old plug, its thread will be bad.
Look up how to use the chaser and go slow and carefull untill you are sure it is going in straight.
Use some oil on it and start threading it in by hand.
When it starts to bite, use a little bit of pressure to cut the thread, then back it off and do it again.
If it starts feeling "crunchy"
pull the chaser out, clean the chips off of it and start again.
Slow and steady.
You arent trying to cut a new thread, you are trying to run the chaser into the old thread past the cross threaded part.
Just keep in mind, if it feels like its going to break, stop and rethink your plan.
You really dont want a chunk of tool steel broken off in the head.
When you buy new plugs, look them over real carefully. The offshore garbage has very bad tooling chatter and poorly cut lead threads. And never trust a "pre gapped" plug.
Gap them yourself.
Make sure you throw out that old plug!
Chevy plugs are a pain and Im willing to bet a lot of people on this forum have gacked one up at one time or another.
Its a fairly common problem.
Good luck.
Let everybody know how it turns out for you.

You aren't the first. If it's real bad you need to pull the head and take it to a machine shop.

Always start plugs by hand. I also put a very tiny dab of anti-seize on the threads when I do plugs. Just enough so I can feel it turn smoothly. Don't use a lot because you don't want them to back out.

It’s only the first two or three threads, a mechanic friend of my dads is gonna help take care of it. He has all the tools and 25years of expertise.

Forgot to mention.
A good way to practice this before you do it is to pull a couple of other good plugs and then try to restart them by hand.
Chevy plugs go in at a wierd angle and finding that lead in thread can be difficult.
Before you re-use an old plug, inspect the threads and clean them.
The carbon on the end of the plug and the heat distortion on an old plug will turn a fiddly groping back bending task into a disaster because ya just wanted to put the plugs in.
Always use an actual 6 point spark plug socket.
And it needs to be a quality socket and a quality ratchet.
Most of the cheap ones are too fat to get into that tapered hole and actually grip the plug without rounding it off.
There are a couple of things that are common pain the ass situations on Chevys where you should buy the best tools you can find.
Spark plugs, and distributor wrenches.


Try to get that understanding of angle and its relationship to a good plug.
I know, its a big pain in the ass.
But it is worth it so you can get the feel for what you are doing with the thread chaser.
And also worth doing so you dont have to pull the head.

0xDEADBEEF said:

You aren't the first. If it's real bad you need to pull the head and take it to a machine shop.

Always start plugs by hand. I also put a very tiny dab of anti-seize on the threads when I do plugs. Just enough so I can feel it turn smoothly. Don't use a lot because you don't want them to back out.

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Yep. I always hose the crap out of them with brakcleen before I pull them just so crud doesnt get in the hole or the socket.
And a little dab of anti sieze.
There are three hatefull points on a small block chevy.
The starter, the distributor, and the friggen peanut plugs.

Many years ago, Champion Spark Plugs sold a line of tools related to tuneups. We had them at our parts store as long as they were available, in the 70s and 80s. One of the tools was a neoprene vinyl holder for plugs that was shaped to go snugly around the insulator. A piece of rubber fuel line the right size will also work. I've used both, but I think when I replaced the Burb's plugs in April, I just put them in the socket with the short extension on it. I use anti seize, and just try to "feel" how it goes into the head. The ones on a 350 that you can see from above are easier than the ones that are hidden inside the curve of the exhaust manifold. And I also agree with checking the gap; sometimes the box of plugs gets dropped or they're just not quite right.

If you think you're going to re-gap fine-wire plugs, be sure you don't bend the center electrode, or break the platinum or iridium off of the side electrode.

There's a reason they tell you not to re-gap those plugs.

HotWheelsBurban said:

Many years ago, Champion Spark Plugs sold a line of tools related to tuneups. We had them at our parts store as long as they were available, in the 70s and 80s. One of the tools was a neoprene vinyl holder for plugs that was shaped to go snugly around the insulator. A piece of rubber fuel line the right size will also work. I've used both, but I think when I replaced the Burb's plugs in April, I just put them in the socket with the short extension on it. I use anti seize, and just try to "feel" how it goes into the head. The ones on a 350 that you can see from above are easier than the ones that are hidden inside the curve of the exhaust manifold. And I also agree with checking the gap; sometimes the box of plugs gets dropped or they're just not quite right.

Click to expand...

The fuel line trick is good; I've always just depended on an old spark plug wire boot - and thread 'em in by hand, nice and easy.

Richard

someotherguy said:

The fuel line trick is good; I've always just depended on an old spark plug wire boot - and thread 'em in by hand, nice and easy.

Richard

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That's kinda what that tool looks like, just a little bigger around so it's easier to hold. Think I still have it, somewhere in the garage.....