My quick EGR tube fix.

crowe · Dec 28, 2021

Newb here. Been scavenging this site for info a while. Only fair that I share a little trick or two I learn along the way myself, so here’s my first.

The old EGR tube pain, we all know it, and have different ways of dealing with it, here’s mine, all criticism accepted!!

So, I’ve owned this truck a couple weeks, 97 C3500 454 Vortech. Been driving it 40 miles a day on the interstate to and from the ol labor camp. Coming home one evening, I hear the exhaust get loud. Luckily, I pulled my ass off at the next exit and found this,

You must be registered for see images attach

Broken tube burning through my wiring harness. This could’ve gotten ugly quick! Zip tied it up and rode home. Next day,

You must be registered for see images attach

Not a lot left to work with , had to steal the old lady’s mop.

You must be registered for see images attach

crowe · Dec 29, 2021

Cut off about 8",

You must be registered for see images attach

Added some of this,

You must be registered for see images attach

Like so,

You must be registered for see images attach

Then dry fit the other end a couple of times and trimmed till I liked the fit.

Then I coated the tube and inserted,

You must be registered for see images attach

At this point, feel free to smear the permatex all over the joint, your motor, spark plug wires, a little on the paint, some on your clothes, and anything else you see fit.
This will run you 3-5 months before the permatex dries out and starts leaking again, so fiqure out how you're gonna fix it permanently in that time. Good Luck!!

Schurkey · Dec 29, 2021

Clever. However, you used the wrong "Permatex". Don't use RTV silicone, rated for 650 degrees F. Use "Muffler and Tailpipe sealer", rated for 1000 degrees C. (about 1800 F.)

You must be registered for see images attach

www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BOAZM8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media

The threads of the fitting that screws into the intake manifold don't require Teflon tape to seal. That's the job of the O-ring. And if possible, keep the sealant off of the nut on the tube that threads onto the fitting. Once the sealant hardens, that nut isn't coming off without wrecking something. In fact, if you could get a layer of anti-seize between that nut and the tube, it would ease removal later. But all that assumes you have enough tube sticking out of the nut to use two different chemicals without them mixing; and that's probably not possible in your situation. Not enough tube remaining.

454cid · Dec 29, 2021

I wonder if a flexible natural gas line for a stove or dryer could work as a replacement, in some manner. The fittings are NPT, or maybe flare, but maybe with a correct flaring tool, the orginal GM fittings could be put on the new line from a big box store. I believe those NG lines are stainless.

thegawd · Dec 29, 2021

I need to fix this on the sierra, someone already has it jerry rigged and it is intact but nevertheless a broken POS.

That gas line is a great idea and theres so many different fitting adapters I'm sure it would be simple to plumb.

The OPS fix doesn't look to bad either, good job. Mine doesn't look like that.. . LOL

454cid · Dec 29, 2021

thegawd said:
I need to fix this on the sierra, someone already has it jerry rigged and it is intact but nevertheless a broken POS.

That gas line is a great idea and theres so many different fitting adapters I'm sure it would be simple to plumb.

The OPS fix doesn't look to bad either, good job. Mine doesn't look like that.. . LOL

If that's the your 350, I think Dorman makes a replacement, and maybe availble from the dealer.... for the 454 it's simply unavailable except a used piece, which are insanely priced on ebay.

Schurkey · Dec 29, 2021

His engine is a 454/7.4L.

Same as mine in the '97 K2500. So, yeah, I paid attention to what he did.

I'm genuinely surprised that Dorman doesn't have a Chinese replacement. I guess GM didn't sell many 7.4L Vortec trucks.

crowe · Dec 30, 2021

Schurkey said:
His engine is a 454/7.4L.

Same as mine in the '97 K2500. So, yeah, I paid attention to what he did.

I'm genuinely surprised that Dorman doesn't have a Chinese replacement. I guess GM didn't sell many 7.4L Vortec trucks.

Schurkey said:
Clever. However, you used the wrong "Permatex". Don't use RTV silicone, rated for 650 degrees F. Use "Muffler and Tailpipe sealer", rated for 1000 degrees C. (about 1800 F.)

You must be registered for see images attach

www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BOAZM8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media

The threads of the fitting that screws into the intake manifold don't require Teflon tape to seal. That's the job of the O-ring. And if possible, keep the sealant off of the nut on the tube that threads onto the fitting. Once the sealant hardens, that nut isn't coming off without wrecking something. In fact, if you could get a layer of anti-seize between that nut and the tube, it would ease removal later. But all that assumes you have enough tube sticking out of the nut to use two different chemicals without them mixing; and that's probably not possible in your situation. Not enough tube remaining.

Thank you for the input Schurkey.
Absolutely correct! I should have treated the whole EGR tube as if it was exhaust. Teflon was worthless. I didn’t mention Teflon in post, but good eye!! Thanks for the Permatex and anti- seize heads up, so many different kinds, very important to bear in mind the task at hand.

My quick EGR tube fix.

crowe

Newbie

crowe

Newbie

Schurkey

Supporting Member

454cid

Sooper Pooper

thegawd

I'm Done!

454cid

Sooper Pooper

Schurkey

Supporting Member

crowe

Newbie

Similar threads

Latest posts

Members online

Forum statistics

Share this page