Replacing Blown Motor, 5.7... suggestions?

Traveling man said:

HELLO friend, I would like to give you my two cents, You you decide if it makes sense to you, I have a 93 Chevy, motor shot craps, being a 93, it had crappy heads motor rated at 190hp A new one cost about $1800, They last well, You can ditch the tbi and push the hp # up to ruffly 230hp with a carburetor, or swap later vortec heads( like you have) spend a fortune on an intake manifold to marry those vortec heads to the t b i, to gain ruffly 30hp, but luckily you already have a vortec engine, but with your lack of familiar on engine building, a crate engine would be one and done with a warranty, my choice was an LS swap, hear is why, that brand new tbi would do nothing for the value of my truck, Weak by today's standards, what it cost to build a 383 she could pull an LS out of a junkyard be lighter aluminum heads faster stronger 6 bolt on all crank journals more efficient less money. My research led me to this, I purchased a damaged 2004 Chevy 2500 HD 4×4 for $2500 used the 6.0ls 4l80e sold the push button transfer case core support a brush guard fender, scrap yard the rest ,sold my damaged motor and 4l60e long story, I have $0 in the 6.0- 80e I bought motor mounts intake gaskets 1 spark plug oil pump oil pump pickup o-ring oil pan gasket 32 spline input shaft to put into my transfer case, fix the boat broken bolt in the head, built myself a custom exhaust system, and a wiring harness, ( lt1swap.com) will show you how to fix the wiring harness yourself or pay to have someone do it or buying aftermarket ECU as I did, basically I have 3 grand in it, $1600 was Holly Terminator X Max, and for another $2000 this truck would be very close if not right at 600 hp at the crank. How about an eBay turbo? Stock block crank and rods will handle it, $? 1500 more, =800hp unless you turn the little screw get a better intercooler run E85, these motors have been run up to 1200 horsepower on a stock crank block and rods with a little ring Gap and Factory heads. ✌

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JeremyNH said:

I understand the LS swap argument and don't necessarily disagree but we need to compare apples to apples and understand how to compare engine performance. Our SBC truck motors are out of breath at 5000rpm. LS holds their torque to 6000rpm. Because HP = torque x rpm that means that if an LS and SBC perform identically to their limit the LS will have +20% more HP. But that will only be seen in rpm over 5000 which, for almost all of us, simply isn't valuable real estate. For trucks it's the torque that is important and the flatness of the curve and only the most modern LS motors approach the 444 ft-lbs of the HT383e. The LS will still have higher HP because of it's higher revs but if you don't run your motor there then it is of no consequence. But the LS is more fuel efficient because, all things being equal for general applications, it is a better motor. But for trucks? Meh, a bit more complicated. With the HT383e you are getting a brand new motor. With an LS swap it is a boneyard pull. Or you can compare an LS crate motor to an HT383e which is your apples to apples. In that case the HT383e almost certainly beats on torque and most certainly on cost. With everything else the LS beats. So it depends on what you want to do with your truck and what you want to pay for in both time and money. For me that's HT383e but I certainly respect the decision of others with regards to their own rigs. Peace all and Merry Christmas.

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thegawd said:

I dont even have a bore scope in my shop full of tools. those some beaches are expensive!

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Schurkey said:

Two-bolt mains vs. four-bolt mains is only a concern at high RPM, or very high horsepower. It's meaningless except for bragging rights for most people.

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JeremyNH said:

I understand the LS swap argument and don't necessarily disagree but we need to compare apples to apples and understand how to compare engine performance. Our SBC truck motors are out of breath at 5000rpm. LS holds their torque to 6000rpm. Because HP = torque x rpm that means that if an LS and SBC perform identically to their limit the LS will have +20% more HP. But that will only be seen in rpm over 5000 which, for almost all of us, simply isn't valuable real estate. For trucks it's the torque that is important and the flatness of the curve and only the most modern LS motors approach the 444 ft-lbs of the HT383e. The LS will still have higher HP because of it's higher revs but if you don't run your motor there then it is of no consequence. But the LS is more fuel efficient because, all things being equal for general applications, it is a better motor. But for trucks? Meh, a bit more complicated. With the HT383e you are getting a brand new motor. With an LS swap it is a boneyard pull. Or you can compare an LS crate motor to an HT383e which is your apples to apples. In that case the HT383e almost certainly beats on torque and most certainly on cost. With everything else the LS beats. So it depends on what you want to do with your truck and what you want to pay for in both time and money. For me that's HT383e but I certainly respect the decision of others with regards to their own rigs. Peace all and Merry Christmas.

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Traveling man said:

check out the 2022 Corvette motor

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Traveling man said:

Horsepower equals torque times RPM, ?

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Traveling man said:

Interesting concept, THE LS, The 383, ? Let me just say that you change when and where you have your torque Peak and horsepower Peak with a cam, it's not an is what it is because it's one or the other. The best thing to do, is let these two totally different perceived understandings of the cost/ strength/ potential/ gas mileage/ inspire you to do much more research before you make your decision.

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Traveling man said:

Personally I wouldn't make my decision off of what I say, or some random somebody say, people can be biased, some people think that album sounds better than a CD, Farmers thought tractors were newfangled joke, I trust professionals, engineers, engine builders, Dyno sheets,

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Traveling man said:

check out the 2022 Corvette motor, game changer! It makes the old Chevy small-block or LS look like a phone that doesn't fit in your pocket back in the day.

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Wardi said:

Hey Guys! I had a Chevy dealer in the Los Angeles area install a HT383E in my 2000 Chevy Z71 Tahoe back in 2011 at about 110k miles. The original 5.7 Vortec was going through about a half quart of oil per gas tank fill, and I could just tell it was about to die and it was my daily driver. At the time I could not do it myself, and I needed it to smog test every other year in Los Angeles. So we used all the original intake and exhaust manifolds, and I never got around to doing an 0411 swap. I think I posted some info on the board about it, and a funky problem we had with the cam shaft gear bolts working loose and digging through the plastic cam shaft chain/gear cover. Well bad news is the 383 just died last month only after about 50k miles. I think it dropped a valve (it was going through about a half quart per tank again). So I'm on another new engine mission, and will post some stuff here shortly. But I just wanted to offer this - the HT383E, with all the original intake and exhaust stuff, was definitely more powerful, but NOT impressively. It sure towed a little better. For example, when towing 5k lbs and going up hill, I definitely felt like I had to put less additional throttle in it to keep to a certain speed. But I do think that the engine was "choked" by the original intake and exhaust manifolds, and I just never got around to the 0411 swap. Good news is I now live where smogging is not done, so I've got WAY more options, and I now have the time and the room to do a lot more myself. You'll see a post soon about my new engine crusade. Happy to answer any more questions about the 383.....

Also BTW - I have bore scopes and I now understand why mechanics have always told me in the past they are not as helpful as one might think. I've put one down the spark plug holes to look for the dropped valve just a couple weeks ago and it's just really hard to really see in the cylinder any real damage. About all I cold see was carbon nicked/knocked off the top of a piston in a way that looked like it was done by a valve. No damage to any of the spark plugs, which I expected. But I'm not sure.....

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