alternator wiring

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AuroraGirl

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@AuroraGirl

with the 4 pin alternators, if it's not being controlled by a computer, like on my 1956 case tractor that was a 6 volt but is now converted to 12..... is that one sense terminal the only one that matters? I took off one of these and replaced it with the 2 pin plug type alternator and wired up an indicator light.

so I have this 4 pin plug alternator and dont quite know what I should do with it..... I have not looked anything up as I dont actually need it but I guess I would like to know how to make it work...

if I understand what your saying, then the sense wire should go to the starter solenoid as it's also used as a distribution post.

what are the other 3 wires for? an indicator light? no? computer crap? no?

hell I'd look it up if I really needed to know this but it sounds like you know this info off the top of your head, and that's awesome!

CHEERS! Aurora!
2 are for the computer possibility OR 1 is used for a resisted ignition signal, alternatively, through a 194 warning indicator on a dash(or both if you wire it right). thats needed to excite the alternator to start unless it was an aftermarket with a self-exciting "1 wire" alternator(that would be the charge wire in those ads) but the sense wire is still wise. the tach lead is not used much, but basically usually 1 or 2 of the wires on the 4 pin are used. Some vehicles, 3, like a buick lesabre could, some just 1. somewhere maybe all 4 were used but I doubt it.
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(cs130d or ad230)

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this shows wiring WITHOUT a PCM controlling, just the standard hookups. the S being wired to the stud on the battery in this photo is done internally, such as you wouldnt need to do that. when you put it elsewhere, it uses that reading. the L terminal is where you need to hook up for your tractor.

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This is my park avenues wiring. The F L terminals are used and wired to the PCM instead of a charge light or resistor(the PCM provides that functionality) and the S is un-used while the P terminal is not listed, its because GM didnt really ever use the alt for a tach I dont think at least often, so it was left off. the line going from the battery to the "Solid state regulator" is the charge wire.
Power dist. cell 10 in the far left is the starter.
 

kennythewelder

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I like your shiny stuff
I have a thing for shiny and chrome stuff, im like a raccoon.

Also, is your alternator an upgraded kind because it looks like a stock cs130d or ad230 just curious

Also you brought up a good point.

Grounding the alternator case especially for a high amp unit. The factory mounting points often corrode over time and people dont think to clean aluminum oxide off cases before mounting them, because they usually almost always are meant to ground through the case onto the mounting pads or brackets. If those grounds get comproimised you have a grounding problem and hell could freeze over or nothing happens, weird stuff. A external ground wire to battery negative or to a un-used ground path elsewhere such as frame or chassis(frame preferable Id think to that) then make sure that ground to the battery is also good. Old battery cables make good ground cables(gm ones at least)
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Also not just the rubber part, grind down the indents that "Lock" onto the side post so its flat.
Yes, my alternator is the stock 105 amp. Yes the case is grounded back to the battery. On the positive side, I have a 125 amp fuse I think. From the battery ground, I have added grounds to the frame, the engine block, the cab, and as mentioned, the alternator case. All of my wires are #2 welding lead. I am a welder after all, and that's easy for me to get. As for making space for all of the connectors, I welded 2 stainless steel 3/8 bolts back to back. So one side is screwed into the battery, and the other side, has plenty of room to add connectors. If it wasn't for doing the big 5 upgrade, IDK if the alternator would keep up with the electric fans. With everything on, Ac, lights, stereo, ECT, it pulls the amps down to around 10 on the gauge, sometimes 9 at idle. As soon as I take off, the amps come up. You can tell from the OE valve covers, these are some older pics, but my setup is still the same , more or less.
 

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AuroraGirl

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Yes, my alternator is the stock 105 amp. Yes the case is grounded back to the battery. On the positive side, I have a 125 amp fuse I think. From the battery ground, I have added grounds to the frame, the engine block, the cab, and as mentioned, the alternator case. All of my wires are #2 welding lead. I am a welder after all, and that's easy for me to get. As for making space for all of the connectors, I welded 2 stainless steel 3/8 bolts back to back. So one side is screwed into the battery, and the other side, has plenty of room to add connectors. If it wasn't for doing the big 5 upgrade, IDK if the alternator would keep up with the electric fans. With everything on, Ac, lights, stereo, ECT, it pulls the amps down to around 10 on the gauge, sometimes 9 at idle. As soon as I take off, the amps come up. You can tell from the OE valve covers, these are some older pics, but my setup is still the same , more or less.
i mean, I wouldnt use stainless because of its conductivity BUTTTTTT if you want a genius idea, assuming you have no clearance issues, you could get a 34/78 battery and utilize the other post for connections

Those kind of draws can become a little much on batteries and bog things down. if you wanted , they make an inline "booster" that works for cs130 and ad230 (it appears, to me, you have one of those... didnt see a year but thats better than nothing).
However, if using a CS130d, I would not do that immediately at least. CS130(d) alternators have a biggest weakness, the rectifier bridge. AD230 improves it and has better cooling (heat killing the previous ones a lot)

So if not an AD230, I recommend that. If an AD230, a voltage booster may be a helpful thing, it will "trick" the thing into running more esp at idle but its hard to say if yours uses ecm controls or not and its possible they require that to be utilized, not sure.


Also, if you want to keep your small case friend, you can have you alternator built with a AD244 rectifier and just wound to be more amps, but it will make a lot more heat.
If you had space rearward, a dual rectifier alternator would be your friend, but only rear space being plentiful is that helpful to suggest.
If you wanted you could go to the AD244 who outputs a lot more at idle than AD230 but the overall is 140 amp. Dual alternators could also be put in to service. an ad244 is 14mm larger stator, which adds a lot more than youd think because of the larger case around it, but its able to be purchased in your mounting configuration. if you do that, or just put the AD244 rectifier on yours, you can save a lot on heat. the ad244 rectifier on a ad230 makes it last longer and run cooler
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shortly after owning it my connections in my car looked like this
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I was proud of that.. but those cables eventually got bad where the smaller leads on the posts went, and they had some resistance.. now its a mess... but i hope to get back to that point lol
 

kennythewelder

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i mean, I wouldnt use stainless because of its conductivity BUTTTTTT if you want a genius idea, assuming you have no clearance issues, you could get a 34/78 battery and utilize the other post for connections

Those kind of draws can become a little much on batteries and bog things down. if you wanted , they make an inline "booster" that works for cs130 and ad230 (it appears, to me, you have one of those... didnt see a year but thats better than nothing).
However, if using a CS130d, I would not do that immediately at least. CS130(d) alternators have a biggest weakness, the rectifier bridge. AD230 improves it and has better cooling (heat killing the previous ones a lot)

So if not an AD230, I recommend that. If an AD230, a voltage booster may be a helpful thing, it will "trick" the thing into running more esp at idle but its hard to say if yours uses ecm controls or not and its possible they require that to be utilized, not sure.


Also, if you want to keep your small case friend, you can have you alternator built with a AD244 rectifier and just wound to be more amps, but it will make a lot more heat.
If you had space rearward, a dual rectifier alternator would be your friend, but only rear space being plentiful is that helpful to suggest.
If you wanted you could go to the AD244 who outputs a lot more at idle than AD230 but the overall is 140 amp. Dual alternators could also be put in to service. an ad244 is 14mm larger stator, which adds a lot more than youd think because of the larger case around it, but its able to be purchased in your mounting configuration. if you do that, or just put the AD244 rectifier on yours, you can save a lot on heat. the ad244 rectifier on a ad230 makes it last longer and run cooler
You must be registered for see images attach

shortly after owning it my connections in my car looked like this
You must be registered for see images attach

I was proud of that.. but those cables eventually got bad where the smaller leads on the posts went, and they had some resistance.. now its a mess... but i hope to get back to that point lol
Its been that way for a long time. Several years, and never an issue. I guess I never really though about the conductivity of stainless VS other metals. I will say this, stainless welded better than any other metal. I have never had an issue with anything overheating because of a bad connection on the stainless bolts. I just figured that stainless would be better than mild steel bolts, and as for galvanized, that's out of the question.
 

kennythewelder

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Oh, also, I have thought about replacing the OE alternator with the bigger HD, OE alternator. I'm not familiar with the part numbers. The OE alternator keeps up for the most part.
 

AuroraGirl

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Yeah, I saw that, not everyone can weld so, this is another option...
be nice you two there is no reason he cant have his welded stainless or you your copper/brass manufactured lug. both are valid and something tells me GM would have used something that would corrode like a MFer or an overly complicated conversion post 3 inches from the side post.
 

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Given a choice, I would not use a "fuse" (or circuit breaker) of any sort in the alternator output cable. GM protects that cable with fusible link wire, which withstands short-term overloads that would pop a fuse or circuit breaker.

When that cable "opens"--the fuse, circuit breaker, or fusible link goes "****", the voltage spike may kill the diodes in the alternator. Clearly, you don't want that cable to open unless it REALLY needs to. [Really? "Po of" is a banned word?]

For many years--decades, even--GM did not provide any sort of protection on that cable.
 
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