Alternator help…

The next factory size up from the 105a alternator is 140a and it does have an external fan. I upgraded to the 140a when my 105a gave out three years ago and haven't had any issues. You will need a a different belt to drive it (it's about 2" longer iirc) since it has a larger case. As the previous post shows you need a new harness for it too but these are available as a "repair harness" from your local Autozone. Just depin all but the one that goes to the "gen start" terminal. You can get the belt at your local parts store as well just select 105/140a w/wo AC to get the right one.

Schurkey said:

13.9 is almost certainly too low. And nowhere here has anyone talked about the actual amperage output of the troublesome alternator.

I'd have expected 14.2, perhaps higher voltage. A clamp-on amperage probe is the usual method of determining alternator amperage output.

Would be worthwhile to measure the AC voltage while you're in there.

First Guess: All you really need is an OEM alternator that actually works right. But as you said, as long as you have to replace it, you might as well upgrade. Beware "new" Chinese alternators. I'd rather have a "good used" OEM Delco, or a quality rebuilt OEM Delco, than a brand-new Chinese knockoff.

Internal fan would not be a CS130. The original CS130 was a piece of crap. I've heard good things about the AD240, but i have absolutely no idea about interchanges.

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i bought a manufactured cs144 acdelco from rockauto and in idle it shows about 13.5.

Iv got the truck today I’ll get a pic later today of both. I know there was a factory upgrade for my truck but from what I understand the ones from the early 2000s are more reliable and more of a direct swap.

I’d prefer not to get a new belt if I don’t need to as the one Iv got is fairly new. But I think the upgrade would be worth it.

My fans are on a thermal switch for now which this time of year never turn on unless it idles a lot. I do plan on doing the 411 pcm swap

Next Monday I’m going out of town where there is a salvage yard i figured I’d look for a alternator out of one of the specified trucks. I looked last time I was there and didn’t find much but I wasn’t really familiar with what I was looking for either

My 2011 volt gauge stays around 14.5. My 96 Iv checked with a scan gauge and volt meter and the dash gauge they all read pretty close to the same

dirtautoguy said:

Iv got the truck today I’ll get a pic later today of both. I know there was a factory upgrade for my truck but from what I understand the ones from the early 2000s are more reliable and more of a direct swap.

I’d prefer not to get a new belt if I don’t need to as the one Iv got is fairly new. But I think the upgrade would be worth it.

My fans are on a thermal switch for now which this time of year never turn on unless it idles a lot. I do plan on doing the 411 pcm swap

Next Monday I’m going out of town where there is a salvage yard i figured I’d look for a alternator out of one of the specified trucks. I looked last time I was there and didn’t find much but I wasn’t really familiar with what I was looking for either

My 2011 volt gauge stays around 14.5. My 96 Iv checked with a scan gauge and volt meter and the dash gauge they all read pretty close to the same

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1999 was the first year of AD series in at least cars. ive heard of factory cs130(d) being used till 2002 at the latest but have heard of 1999 and 2000 trucks having ad230s.
Cars wont have the same case ears setup but the guts will be the same, but the case is a lot of work to swap. but if you ever were adventurous lol.

Anyway, as far as wiring, you have 4 pins and 3 of them would be used if your PCM supports the trigger function through it(as opposed to exciting with a light/resistor) but I almost doubt it.. but its possible, cs130 had that feature when it was new it just depended on the car line to use it. It also has a potential 2nd one, I forgot what it does. Then there is the SENSE wire (s terminal) this is a important wire in my opinion, if you have anything like a fuse box with a positive lug or a post on the firewall that is far from your battery and especially charge wire, you should run the wire to that. Depending on how starters are wired, some people have good luck wiring to the starter lug.

If you dont use this terminal, it would not hurt anything you just have voltage drop whatever it is lowering your charge voltage ever so slightly(hopefully only slightly) When not used, the S wire is sensed internally by the solid state rectifier and uses the stud basically on the back. Thats most ever will be used. Diesels MAY? use the tach lead?

swap the 237 for 230 or 244 for the difference which would be 30 or 44 mm stator.

alternator in question on my 96

alternator on my 2011

dirtautoguy said:

alternator in question on my 96

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if thats your OE alternator, the unit is a CS130d. The CS130d is similar to an AD230 but it has the rectifier bridge of a CS130, which isnt as durable or high quality. THe AD series alternator was the natural progression after fixing the casing and other QOL issues with the CS130 design. You can get an AD230 for a truck (with those mounting ears) and it would be a temperature improvement and lifespan improvement overall. The 99 model year was the first year of AD alternators. If you get the right casing or look into swaps for an AD244, you can get a nice upgrade in power too.

dirtautoguy said:

alternator on my 2011

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BOSCH.

Nothign bad about that but its not a GM technology. The newer trucks are beyond my knowledge set, but they are either considered good or absolute **** it depends on who you ask. (bosch)

The alternator on my 96 is a oe spec replacement. I replaced it back in highschool when I bought the truck 10 years ago and about 70000 miles.

I figured the one on my 2011 wasn’t oem, but it seems to be working.

So maybe it was said and I don’t understand. An early 2000s truck could have a ad230 with the mounting ears and one wire coming out of a 4 wire plug correct?

And on my 2011 it should be a ad244 with just a 2 wire plug and the same mounting ears. Except one wire would need to hook up with a resister or into a pcm that could control it to make it work properly?

Did I get that right?