ABS KEEPS IN GAUGING

So after just doing this changing of the sensors and posting my last post hopefully find a solution besides replacing the “hubs” which I’ve never done in the 10 years I’ve owned her! I also checked out the backsides of my wheels and they’re delaminating or the aluminum is cracked and preying apart so I peeled off those spots and now backsides of rims look like absolute hell! So I’ve been hunting new wheels for a bit now but trying not to spend crazy money so question is would these wheels fit directly on without any extras? Here’s a pic of them and the box’s has some details on the wheels.I would be buying the tires separately 33”s to give me the filled out look.

Bob Richards said:

So after just doing this changing of the sensors and posting my last post hopefully find a solution besides replacing the “hubs” which I’ve never done in the 10 years I’ve owned her! I also checked out the backsides of my wheels and they’re delaminating or the aluminum is cracked and preying apart so I peeled off those spots and now backsides of rims look like absolute hell! So I’ve been hunting new wheels for a bit now but trying not to spend crazy money so question is would these wheels fit directly on without any extras? Here’s a pic of them and the box’s has some details on the wheels.I would be buying the tires separately 33”s to give me the filled out look.

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

Click to expand...

I ran some similar cheap 20" chrome wheels on my '97 Suburban for years with a similar size tire as what you're looking for there. The ride sucked, bad. Shortening the sidewall and widening the tread patch is a sure fire way to rattle your teeth out of your head and increase front end wear. (substantially increasing unsprung weight too) You'll probably have to crank up your torsion keys a little to avoid rubbing as well, which won't help those things. I had to rebuild my front end twice while running those larger wheels and tires, after the last one I said screw that and went back to factory size wheels and tires. Everything immediately got sooooo much better.

Obviously it's your truck so do what you want, but I was not impressed with heavy 20"s and larger tires.

I had to do hubs on my Dad's 06 Denali a few years ago. Hardest part was breaking everything loose and finding the right tools. On it I needed a really short 15mm 6 point socket for the 3 bolts that hold the hub flange to the knuckle. There's no room for much of anything in there! The socket I used was an SK 3/8 drive, about an inch long. The big nut on the axle was a 35mm or 1 3/8". I needed a long cheater pipe to help break that one loose cause it's torqued to like 200 ft/lbs. Only other tools needed was the stuff you use to take the caliper off. I bought new bolts from the local Chevy dealer parts department, I think they were about $6 each. They're made specifically for this application.
I'm presuming that the 4x4 400 trucks are similar to the 800 series; they look that way.

Chevy-SS said:

99% of the time this is an ABS wheel speed sensor. Often times a code will give you a clue as to which wheel. The sensors are cheap, and easy to replace. Or the reluctor might be just dirty/rusty.

The green arrow on the pic points to where all the magic happens. The sensor picks up the little tabs on the reluctor ring. It's a tight tolerance, and once it gets dirt/rusty, the sensor can no longer function properly, thus you get the awkward low-speed activations.

You must be registered for see images attach

Click to expand...

I can confirm this. I had the exact same problem and this was it.