'99 Silverado 4.3 to 5.3 Swap with 4L80e bonus

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stutaeng

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So yesterday I did a bit of troubleshooting. I unplugged both fuel lines and confirmed I had the pressure and return lines correct.

I replugged the pressure line only and plugged the return tube from the fuel rail. With key on, pressure increased to 80 psi and held. So I think that rules out leaky injectors. I reconnected the return line and pressure was now holding with key on. Huh? Pressure is around 52 psi...

I checked for injector pulse while also looking at fuel pressure and both fall off as engine dies. I "think" everything looks good at this point and next step is to get VATS deleted and ECU reflashed. Probably won't happen for another week.

Some progress photos.

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stutaeng

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I found a local guy that deleted the vats and reflashed the ECU. She fired right up!

Ran it for a few minutes. Added coolant, but forgot to add PS fluid. It seemed like it was idling too fast. Didn't really have time to troubleshoot the high idling issue... hopefully tomorrow. But I think that was a big milestone for me!

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stutaeng

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Well, not much progress, but some updates. I got another complete harness, DBW throttle body and matching ECU from a 2000 truck. I'll have to get the ECU tuned to my application. I don't know if I should run the EGR or not. The 2000 harness has a connector for the EGR, but the L59 intake & exhaust manifold don't have the provisions for EGR. I have another manifold with EGR, so I can go either way.

I had to redo the transmission connector repin, and took some photos while I was at it. Also repinned the ECU connector. So I will focus on doing that. This is specific to the 99-02 truck ECUs with Red/Blue connectors, but similar to the 03-06+ Blue/Green.

Step 1: Undo the gray connector on the transmission. Remove wires S (white,) T (tan,) & U(brown.)

Wire U will now go where S used to be. Now you have 2 "extra" wires, S (white) and T (tan.) Remove these wires from the loom to the first branch of the wiring harness. Apply a little dap of rtv silicone to the empty connectors.

Solder your new speed sensor, and this will now be your new INPUT speed sensor on your 4L80e. You can see with the new pigtail, you have plenty of wire for the new connector.


Step 2:

a.) Go to your Red ECU connector and look for the Tan wire. It is on #42. Remove this pin and relocate it to pin #23. Same Red connector.
b.) Go to your Blue connector and look for the White wire. It is on #79. Remove this pin and relocate it to the Red connector pin #22.

That's it for the electrical portion. All you have to do it get your ECU reflashed.

Useful links I followed:
https://lt1swap.com/4l60e_4l80e_harness.htm
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Guys, I made a mistake here, the new VSS added is the INPUT speed sensor. I hooked them up backwards! When I start my truck my scanner is showing it's going like 26 MPH, but it is in Park. I think maybe that's why it's idling high. I'll swap sensors tonight and see what happens.

I had messed with the NSS (range selector) switch mostly all last week. Got a new one installed. I broke the old NSS on the 4L60e when I removed it. Was not patient enough. They are glued in. A heat gun is a must if you want to reuse them. Gently heat it and the glue melts away and you can remove the connector.

If this works for me, I move closer to the next step: getting the driveshaft U joint conversion...
 

RDF1

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Got the tranmission crossmember modified. Not sure how this works on the GMT 400 (I think crossmember bolts directly to the frame and some trucks already have the holes set back?), but on the GMT 800 the crossmember bolts to some brackets that are riveted to the frame.

In my case, the bolt on the 4L80e mount was an exact 6" toward the rear compared to the position on the cross member for the 4L60e.

So I cut the steel tube crossmember and pushed the center portion back with some plate stock.

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Dang.. all you had to do was cut that tower off, put it on the rear of the crossmember and weld it back up. Its alot easier than cutting the tubing and welding in those side plates.

Looking good tho!
 

stutaeng

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Dang.. all you had to do was cut that tower off, put it on the rear of the crossmember and weld it back up. Its alot easier than cutting the tubing and welding in those side plates.

Looking good tho!

Wait, what tower?

I was following this video:
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Minute 8:00. His crossmember tube looked a bit different than mine. I read on PT some guys were flipping that crossmember. But think that conflicts if you need to drop your pan?
 

stutaeng

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Well, that did it! Engine is idling around 580 RPM and it's saying 0 MPH...seems to idle pretty smooth!

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RDF1

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Wait, what tower?

I was following this video:
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Minute 8:00. His crossmember tube looked a bit different than mine. I read on PT some guys were flipping that crossmember. But think that conflicts if you need to drop your pan?


99-01 had the same Xmember as yours. the Perch on top or the tower on top however you want to call it.
It is the sheet metal on top of the square tubing.

some late 01s to 2007 had that really big xmember like in the video.

On my 2000 i just cut the weld on the tower and put it on the back side of the xmember and welded it back on.
Had to put one washer between it and the trans mount to get the angle back right.

Ive pulled my pan several times with it like that no problem.
 

stutaeng

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99-01 had the same Xmember as yours. the Perch on top or the tower on top however you want to call it.
It is the sheet metal on top of the square tubing.

some late 01s to 2007 had that really big xmember like in the video.

On my 2000 i just cut the weld on the tower and put it on the back side of the xmember and welded it back on.
Had to put one washer between it and the trans mount to get the angle back right.

Ive pulled my pan several times with it like that no problem.

Great! Thanks for that information!
 
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