Oil leak at spark plug

east302 · Feb 26, 2021

Pulled the intake, gasket was broken near #1 cylinder and deformed at #2.

Do y’all think this will seal near #1? The pitting doesn’t give me a warm and fuzzy. In the past I’ve just replaced the manifold but they’re up to $400 now so I’d rather pass.

Maybe a thin coat of RTV or just put gasket on and go with it?

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Schurkey · Feb 27, 2021

Epoxy the pits, draw-file it smooth again?

stutaeng · Feb 27, 2021

Yeah, that looks about typical to me. I did a little extra RTV when I did mine, but the epoxy sounds like a better idea.

You are going with those gaskets that gave the metal lamination, right?

east302 · Feb 27, 2021

stutaeng said:
Yeah, that looks about typical to me. I did a little extra RTV when I did mine, but the epoxy sounds like a better idea.

You are going with those gaskets that gave the metal lamination, right?

Yes, the other style that Fel-Pro makes. Whoever did these last used the non-reinforced Fel-Pro versions.

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Erik the Awful · Feb 27, 2021

I'd use gasket-cinch and fiber gaskets.

GoToGuy · Feb 27, 2021

Everyone has a favourite way for dealing with the pitting corrosion erosion. So on my 95 K2500 5.7. The water passage from head to intake mating flange forward left side. Was slowly weeping leak. Had an eyeball on it watching. So finally the ocd overode everything odered the gasket kit. Got ride of the plastic connectors. Installed stainless performance pipe thread smooth hose fittings. For the pitting on the water passages I mixed up some 2 part epoxy heavy metal JB weld. My thinking it dries hard like concrete. Doesn't take alot to fill the irregularities. Gentle finishing with mill file looks cast iron. It takes heat well. As a little insurance i added very thin red gasket adhesive on the head side. So its been 1,2....7 months, no leaks. So thats what i did. Have fun.

CKVortec · Feb 27, 2021

That oil leak looks more like someone spilled some when pulling off the valve cover or spilled on it and that's where it dribbled off. I doubt very much that it travelled up the spark plug threads when it was tight. If there was that much unburnt oil in that cylinder it wouldn't fire and that plug would be soaked on the end. I also don't remember there being any oil passages that close to any spark plugs. Clean it up and drive it, see what it has to say next month.

Steve A · Mar 1, 2021

Hopefully that isn't Dex-cool on the plug threads, which could indicate a cracked head (not uncommon on a Vortec 350 that has been overheated).

east302 · Mar 1, 2021

It didn’t look like coolant. I flushed out whatever was in it a few months ago when we got it. Think it might have been dexcool in a former life, it was just baby diaper orange brownish if that makes sense.

The replacement green was still green when I drained it the other day.

GoToGuy · Mar 2, 2021

I would do a good washdown of all the existing and suspect areas. Identify which gaskets, seals are problems and correct as you want. The oil plug thing. One question "what do you of the previous owner?" Technical ability= Master, good diy , " givem' a screwdriver they destroy the world. Think of the physics involved, heat and pressure during the combustion process negates any oil creeping up spark plug threads. If the plugs were loose there would other real visual indicators. Taper seat makes a good seal, properly torqued. Crappy oil changes and never changing plugs look like crap. If i didn't know history. I would start with new zero point. Cap, rotor, wires, plugs, filters. Thats would i advise to freinds, customers. Good luck.

Oil leak at spark plug

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