Bought a K2500, wrong mileage, needs some work, advice?

Truck Dilemma

  • Keep the K2500, fix the steering & whatever else

    Votes: 20 95.2%
  • Sell the K2500, buy a 2002 GMC Sierra 2500HD with known mileage

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Sell the K2500, buy a 2000 K2500 7.4L

    Votes: 1 4.8%
  • Sell the K2500, wait for something better

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Total voters
    21

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jmnw

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Hi all,

I'm in a bit of a predicament: do I keep spending money on my new to me K2500 or cut my losses?

TL;DR: I bought a truck that had 199k miles, but it turns out it is probably closer to 300-400k+, and it's needing steering work done right now.

I just bought a 1996 K2500 Silverado long bed 4x4 last week for a road trip. It's a 5.7, 4.1 ratio, 4L80 transmission, 8-lug wheels, plus a shell. I was in a hurry, so I didn't do my due diligence - I didn't run a Carfax. I paid $4500 for a truck with 199k miles on the odometer, and then I spent $1600 getting the front-right wheel speed sensor replaced for ABS, the cruise control fixed, front brakes done, and the front sway bar linkage replaced (I think, can't recall). I also put in a new stereo and speakers for ~$400 (3,000 mi trip planned). I have a Chilton manual waiting for me at home, and I was pretty excited about owning this truck. This forum was really helpful in finding the RPO codes and learning more about it.

After getting it loaded for my trip, I drove 500 miles from WA to ID on Sunday, and I discovered the front steering is really loose with a pretty big dead zone -- it's pretty hard staying in a lane on curves. I hadn't noticed because I'd only test driven the truck in the city with 90 degree turns. I took it to a shop, and they found the pitman, control arms, and a bunch of other stuff needs replacing, and that it might only scratch the surface of what's wrong and not correct the steering problems. It's about $1300 to do. The parts are taking awhile to come in and no work has begun, so I've been marooned here for awhile. (Truck has been at the shop for a few days, so I've forgotten some of the specific parts that are worn.)

I was okay with spending this to get the truck safe and functional, but then I found out via Carfax that my truck had 220,000 miles on it in 2011. It had about 110,000 in the early 2000s too. So, I have no idea how many miles are truly on the engine, transmission, body, etc. I just feel gutted and fleeced.

I think my main fear is that fixing the steering issue (or at least replacing the worn out parts) will be the tip of the iceberg. I have no service records other than Carfax, and it does not show a lot to begin with.

OPTIONS
1. Keep the truck, fix the steering, and brace myself for who knows what may come. I don't know how much I should expect to spend to keep a 1996 with unknown mileage and care running.

2. Sell the truck, buy an '02 Sierra 2500 HD with the 6.0L engine for sale here with one owner and ~160k miles for <$9000. It has a canopy and long bed too. I'm not sure if going 6 years newer will be that much better, but the one owner is certainly appealing. I prefer the GMT400 styling to the GMT800, but this one has a lot going for it.

3. Sell the truck, buy a '98 K2500 for sale with the 7.4L and 173k miles for $6k too.

4. Sell the truck, save up for something else. I just can't stomach paying more than $10k private party for an old anything.

The worst part about selling the truck is that I'm not sure I can get what I have paid for it+repairs because now I know of the unknown mileage and will obviously disclose it.

Thanks for reading and any opinions and thoughts!

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stutaeng

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First off, welcome to the forum!

Man, what a cluster F! Sorry to hear that. That's actually a really nice looking truck. Barring the odometer issue and all of the money you have put into it, I think the price you paid was actually pretty good. These trucks are getting a bit more rare, and finding one in good-to-excellent condition is really hard. I've seen trucks like this (with lower mileage, obviously) for up to $8k. Some even $10k. Seems outrageous to me, but that's how much they are asking. I've got a similar truck in the crew cab configuration, but got much less love. It was formerly a ranch truck.

The real question is what are you using it for? Traveling? Do you like the drivetrain? Is the body otherwise fine? Options 2-4 are going to cost a lot more out of pocket. Unless you want a different truck, I'd go ahead and fix this one. Do a few checks on the engine just to be sure everything is operating optimally.

In my experience, trucks that look like they were taken care of from the body perspective usually tell me the engine was also cared for.

The steering and suspension repairs are just going to be common on trucks this age. Consider this maintenance. Sometimes folks get lucky and buy a truck were the PO replaced all of that stuff, but not usually.

I hope this helps.
 
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xjsciortino

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Honestly in my opinion any truck over 175k is going to have these problems. **** if the truck made it that high and it runs fine, then you’re already in a good spot. What’s the difference between a high mileage truck with all new suspension and steering replaced and a 50k mile truck that’s been driven around a parking lot for 20 years everyday?
Both of my gmt400s have above 200k and I don’t doubt their reliability one bit. My old job was at a cemetery and they had a pre 94 with 25k on it. That thing still drove great, but I would trust mine over that truck just because they have been daily drivers or taken on long trips reliably and frequently.

If you can do the work on it then your pockets won’t feel so bad. Plus I’ve been there where something just nickel and dimes you it makes you not want to drive it and get rid of it before something major goes out.
 

Erik the Awful

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There's a value in "knowing what's wrong with it". Buying another truck means spending more money when you find out why the owner is selling it.

That said, I think you need to find a better shop. $1600 to get the front-right wheel speed sensor replaced for ABS, the cruise control fixed, front brakes done, and the front sway bar linkage replaced sounds high to me.
 

mr_josh

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I have some thoughts on this.

First, the mileage: if it’s any consolation, I think you are almost as likely to put the same kind of work you’ve already done into a 190k mile, 25 year old vehicle. The engine and drivetrain are question marks, no doubt, but if you get lucky and they have been maintained, then it seems likely they have another 2,500 mi left in them. (Edit: That is, *at least* 2,500 miles. Just pulled out that number because it's the length you state you have left on your trip.)

You just need to do some soul searching and determine how much you really like this thing. You’re already getting past the point of getting your money back, I think. At least here in the PNW where rust isn’t a huge issue, these trucks don’t yet command a premium and the only things I see getting $6k+ are low miles, well-maintained examples or dually K3500 crew cabs. It also sounds like this shop is getting ready to do a lot of work to your current truck that is needed but maybe won’t directly address your complaint of steering wander. If you are in “triage” mode, you don’t want a complete front end rebuild. If you are in “it’s an investment because I want to keep the vehicle for awhile” mode, then let them have at it I guess.

I’m a little wary of your replacement plan... as a life-long used car owner (/buyer/seller/buyer again/repeat) I can empathize with you over the sting of missing something on a test drive. But unless this truck truly didn’t show its age until you drove off with it, it sounds like you missed a lot of stuff when you were checking it out before purchase. Not trying to beat you up over it but when you’re buying anything that old, whether it’s got 90, 190, or 290k miles, you have to be ready for surprises after the purchase or have your coveralls and flashlight ready to go to find those surprises before money changes hands.

If you want to sell what you’ve got (and I think there’s a case to be made for selling it and an almost equal one for keeping it) I would suggest whatever vehicle you look at, you get the seller to let you take it to a shop and have them inspect it for you before making an offer. It will cost you a little bit but maybe save a bunch in the end. Good luck!
 
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CrustyJunker

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Your decision is entirely up to you and what you want to do. Any of those options are plausible, personal opinion is keep fixing this one since you already have it. If it doesn't fit the bill (maybe you want the one with more tow power or a GMT800 instead), then maybe getting something else is for you. No wrong decision!

Here's a story on mileage that I experienced...

I bought an old car with 5,700 original miles - not a typo. Records showed maybe 4-5 updates from new. Purchased new, 2,000 miles, 3,000 miles, 5,000 miles...Then at some point in its life (around 10 years old), someone recorded it as "mileage exempt - 100,000 miles."

I'd imagine maybe the car wasn't present or they didn't know the actual mileage and staff entered it in accordingly. The car was clearly super clean, had all the original dealer/owner media, window sticker, and even had the original fluids still in it. I live in the rust belt, 60,000 miles on cars around here look like a million.

Anyway, once that magic 100,000 fictitious miles were on its record, they couldn't say any less or otherwise from then on. I'm not wondering if your truck had 120,000 and someone accidentally punched in 220,000? Looks unusually clean to me from the picture supplied.
 

bamabound

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From the pic it looks like a very nice truck & is nicely equiped. If the inside is as good as the outside & the engine/trans/rear check out ok, I'd say you've got a pretty good truck. Sucks about being lied to about the mileage, but as others already said, much of the previous repairs are mostly maintenance. Just my .02.
 

OutlawDrifter

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Here's my two pennies.

You bought it, because there was something there you liked. 199k miles its going to have worn out parts, that's the nature of the beast. I had done the same thing with a 1998 K1500 Z71(bought with 199k, looked like it had 50k miles). You had to chase it going down the road straight, all new steering parts fixed that issue, and other than losing the original 4L60e @ 225k, it was a trouble free ride until I parted with it.

That pickup looks clean, and if it fits your needs, and you like/love it. Put the money in it and continue driving it. I have owned and driven GMT800s, the drivetrains are awesome, and LS's are easier (in my opinion) to work on, but nothing trumps the GMT400 interior and exterior looks! Buying another used vehicle, you just get to start over fixing the "little things." I realize the repairs right now are frustrating, but once its fixed (with quality parts), you're good to go for many more miles.
 

jmnw

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Thanks for all the replies! I think I'm in the "gonna keep it" camp, so you will probably be hearing more from me again. It's been reassuring hearing from you all plus driving it more.

My long trip got postponed, so I drove back home with the loose steering this weekend. I was in 4-Hi for the snow on I-84 and I-90 for many miles/hours, but the truck did great. The check engine light came on for P0151 and P0154 early on, but there seemed to be voltage going to the sensor when sampling data on my OBD reader, and now the light is off, so maybe it rattled itself right. An aside from the trip: I had this terrible high-pitched, tinnitus-like noise that started around 40 MPH, and it was present regardless of whether you were braking or accelerating. My uncle suggested it was the gap between the shell and cab, so I threw $4 of pipe insulation in, and now the problem is solved! I think I need to tighten the shell or shift it, but this quick fix was easy on the joints!

I do genuinely enjoy driving the pickup, and it's been so nice moving stuff without hooking up to a trailer. The truck was pretty fun driving on snowy side roads, so it'll be nice to take it to some climbing trailheads that have previously been painful in other vehicles with lower clearance. It'll primarily be used on <10 mi trips, but I think it'll have a mix of long freeway drives too. Once I get everything squared away, I'll be attempting my Southwest trip again.

My dog also likes the truck and actually wants to sit in it, so that is a definite point in its favor. I made a little table for the foot well and put some scrap memory foam across the table and seat to give him more room, so he's able to use the glovebox as a headrest too.
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Naturally, less than a day after making it home, an F150 pulled out of a parking lot into my truck:nutkick:, so I'm dealing with that right now. That's either a sign to keep the truck or to sell it, right?! The truck goes in for an insurance/damage assessment on Friday. It's a little more than some Bondo, but it's mainly just the bed and bumper.
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This was my first used car purchase, so I am 100% responsible for not being very thorough in checking out the truck. I had a deadline (that ultimately went away & didn't matter), it was dark & raining, and the people seemed honest, but I should've crawled under and done a better test drive, along with getting a Carfax and a mechanic to check it out. Definitely a lesson for next time!

I am excited to learn how to do repairs/enhancements on my own, since it seems like you can actually access most things (compared to a Boxer engine bay). The accessibility of the truck is kind of scratching an itch that I haven't been able to with my Subaru. The fact that I have a little toolbox in the K2500 makes me chuckle every time I open the hood. I just don't want to bite off a big project on my own from the get go.

The shop that did the first batch of repairs either didn't notice/care about the oil soaked rag wedged by the oil pan and the other rag tied around a hose going to nowhere, and they were reluctant to work on the truck in general, so I am looking for a new one. The Subaru mechanic I trust recommended another shop, so I'm going to give them a go once I get all the auto body/insurance stuff taken care of.

So to steer this away from my doom and gloom earlier... where would you start for maintenance? Advice/threads/links appreciated! I found an online copy of the manual and figured I'd begin at mile 0. All I know is that the previous owner supposedly did the upper and lower intake manifold gaskets, fuel pump, and both fuel filters at some point in the "last 15k".

Thanks again! This place is awesome!
 
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