Interior plastic repair

I ended up drilling thru the bezel and just bolting plastic to plastic, screw it tired of being annoyed by broken plastic

Actually your install looks innovative. Only suggestion would be to have used black hex head bolts instead of slotted screws for a slightly better cosmetic upgrade and possibly nylock nuts on the back to guarantee it will never come loose. Excellent idea, though.

Ben Eisler said:

Actually your install looks innovative. Only suggestion would be to have used black hex head bolts instead of slotted screws for a slightly better cosmetic upgrade and possibly nylock nuts on the back to guarantee it will never come loose. Excellent idea, though.

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Yeah I was thinking about the same thing you mentioned, black heads and lock nuts. I grabbed the hardware from Ace in a hurry just to put it back together. I might spend some time digging up better hardware but I just grabbed the cheap chrome to get it functional. I completely agree with your idea and might do that

BonestockK1500 said:

Yeah I was thinking about the same thing you mentioned, black heads and lock nuts. I grabbed the hardware from Ace in a hurry just to put it back together. I might spend some time digging up better hardware but I just grabbed the cheap chrome to get it functional. I completely agree with your idea and might do that

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And if black Allen head screws are available, that would look really period correct! I've seen fake Allen head screws on car interior parts before, looks pretty realistic until you put tools in it and bend it up.....

HotWheelsBurban said:

And if black Allen head screws are available, that would look really period correct! I've seen fake Allen head screws on car interior parts before, looks pretty realistic until you put tools in it and bend it up.....

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Torx T-25....GM loved them some torx

I would use either a button head screw or a flat head. The flat head you do have to make the recess so the head sets flush. Either one would look good. At least in my opinion! LOL


Ken

Steven Petersen said:

I have a few broken plastic pieces in my cab. The main problem is my cluster bezel. It has a couple cracks that go all the way through, and 2 of the mounting posts on the back for the light switch are broken loose. I would rather buy a new bezel, but I haven’t found one that’s not damaged. The bezel is black and was only used in 1988.

I have tried the 2 part epoxy and it worked in other places, but not on the bezel. Is there any place I can send it to that would restore it? Also I’ve seen plastic welding kits. Has anyone had good experience with that?

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Others have already suggested using JB Weld, that's what I used in some of the areas you mentioned. Before mixing epoxy, dry fit everything, try to figure out a way you can apply pressure or a clamp the pieces when you are ready to stick it together.
In some places, you might try, on the back side out of view, scuff the surface well with a dremel wheel and bond a thin piece of metal in place to "splint" the plastic to make it stronger. Always scuff well both surfaces and clean with alcohol just before applying the JB. Put a barrier of plastic tape or electrical tape to areas you don't want to stick and the JB won't bond to that very well. I had to do the posts for the screws that hold the panel dimmer and light switches twice. Then don't tighten the screws past snug. I learned the hard way when the radio display flakes out don't beat the crap out of the panel. I used a lot of JB Weld...

Silvio Iacuone said:

Good to know. There are 2 88s at my local yard and I will go see if the parts are still there. Any idea why they changed to Grey? The black looks sharper

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My 89 has a gray one...

About the best thing Ive seen so far, is to cut off a section of hose clamp ( worm clamp, gears) heat them up hot enough so that it will melt into the plastic at the crack area. Then sand and blend in JB Weld, then sand again. The worm clamp gear melted down into the plastic will reinforce where the crack is. Next best is what Ive been doing, and thats a backer plate of metal, JB Welded from under the crack. After that drys, fill the crack with JBWeld and repeat as needed to fill the crack. Then sand and blend, then paint to match.

I would say a nitrogen plastic welder is your best option.

I’m lucky, my wife works as a trainer for insurance adjusters & they have one at her work.

Getting my lock pillar and D pillar on my 2 door welded next week.

Poly Vance is the machine they have.