Lost all my coolant through this device. What is it?

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HotWheelsBurban

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Yup! Parking the truck overnight with the front end on some ramps or pointing up a hill helps to burp it. Loosen the cap.
These trucks have a rep for retaining air in the cooling system after it's drained or gets down below a certain level.
Sometimes it takes more than one burp session to get all the air out. 3X the last time I did the intake manifold gaskets.
Yes they should have put a bleeder screw on the thermostat housing like Mopar does (or at least did on my 96 Intrepid 3.5 V6.). Put a 4' piece of 1/4" vinyl tubing on it, run the car till no more bubbles are in the line, which is stuck in a bottle of coolant mix. These cars were notorious for air in the system, like the 400s. But Ma Mopar's engineers came up with a factory fix.
 
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Leave the thermostat housing off and fill through radiator till the coolant is up to the top of the t-stat hole. This and one of the funnels that attach to the rad fill help tremendously when purging air
 

10mm Nut

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I'll tell how we used to do it at the dealership.

Aspirin. Seriously, keep a bottle in your toolbox.

Before you install the thermostat, push it open with your fingers and wedge two aspirins in there to hold it open.

Install thermostat and fill cooling system. The water level will rise up and purge the air out. The aspirins dissolve and the thermostat shuts.

In a shop it's all about speed and efficiency. Get em in, get em out. Little tricks save you time.
 

hekg

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Un
I'll tell how we used to do it at the dealership.

Aspirin. Seriously, keep a bottle in your toolbox.

Before you install the thermostat, push it open with your fingers and wedge two aspirins in there to hold it open.

Install thermostat and fill cooling system. The water level will rise up and purge the air out. The aspirins dissolve and the thermostat shuts.

In a shop it's all about speed and efficiency. Get em in, get em out. Little tricks save you time.


Interesting .. I'll definitely give that a go when I swap out my thermostat. Any more cool little dealership tricks that we should know about? :boti:
 

Frank Enstein

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I have drilled a 1/16 bleed hole in the t-stat for 30 years. Bigger and it takes forever to warm up. Smaller and it gets clogged with junk. I also have a modified radiator cap that can't build pressure. I fill the rad until it stops going down and then start it with the heater temp on high but the fan on low. I go do something else until the thermostat opens ( top hose will be too hot to hold) then I remove the cap, top off the rad, and put the real cap on. Make sure the overflow bottle has a bit too much coolant in it and go for a drive. Check and top off the rad the next morning. And check it the following morning. repeat until the rad is full when full cold. I know it's obvious but don't open the cap when the engine is even a little bit warm. Even if you don't get burned any coolant that spills will have to be cleaned up and replaced in the system.
 

thegawd

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screw the intrepid and the sebring and the darts and the concord and the mopar engineers who put the POS 2.7L Mitsubishi engine in them. stupid! ya let's all have a water pump driven off the timing chain... so we have to rebuild the ******* engine just to change a water pump! 8 hours by mopars books. I had the parts and couldn't find a mechanic willing to touch it. so screw mopar and the engineers who let it happen.

we dont need a bleeder screw, they do because it's a dumb design.

Al
 
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PlayingWithTBI

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ya let's all have a water pump driven off the timing chain... so we have to rebuild the ******* engine just to change a water pump! 8 hours by mopars books
Yeah, we did my daughter's 96 Eclipse with the 2.4L Mopar engine. It had a timing belt but, the same set up. The hard part was getting the cams timed correctly, the indicators were close but not exactly cog to cog (about 1/2 a cog). It took a couple tries to get it to stop throwing a code. Sold that ***** (the car, not her) right after replacing the belt, water pump, and tensioner. Got $2000 for it.
 
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