If it's not carrying a ton of current, I prefer these to spade terminals. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CQN61WR/
Novice seeking help (wiring/engine rebuild)
- Thread starter Amsterdamned96
- Start date
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
Amsterdamned96
I'm Awesome
I’m about to shell out a pretty penny on a Delphi Metri 280 terminal connector kit. To redo the wiring harness. Are the terminals in the amazon ones the same as OEM?
Edit:
I was told by a friend that the resistance added due to the spade connectors is negligible. Do you believe otherwise? If so, please let me know.
No. They look similar to Weatherpack, but they're not exactly the same. I don't know about the various Metripack connectors.
Would be interesting to see if the ones on Amazon will plug into a genuine OEM connectors.
I've been buying my Weatherpack-compatible connectors from Summit; either the Summit-branded ones, or some from Casper's.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-900404
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cei-103005
Summit has other brands of essentially the same thing--Astro Pneumatic, Allstar Performance, Ron Francis, and others are all in this market, and all carried by Summit.
https://www.summitracing.com/search?SortBy=BestKeywordMatch&SortOrder=Ascending&keyword=Weatherpack
I have done nothing with Metri-Pack connectors. Never had a need.
Negligible resistance, (especially when new) but not non-existent.
The bigger issue is how they age. What starts off as a perfectly-reasonable connection corrodes in place over time, becomes a problem later. This is why the OEMs have gone to sealed connections rather than the junk used on 1960s and earlier vehicles.
They're pretty cheap, but it doesn't take much to make a decent connector. It's not like the OEMs are buying super high end stuff either. There's a Facebook page dedicated to people who love to spend thousands of dollars and hours rewiring thirty year old German cars. We're talking braided wire looms and spending a hundred dollars for a single obsolete OEM connector. Madness, I had to quit following it.
I've used a couple of these so far, and the quality isn't too far off what I'm used to with Weatherpaks and whatever it was that Nissan used to use. My race team captain bought a similar set a few year back and they've held up pretty well so far on our race cars. I think my biggest recommendation is not to run high current through them. I haven't had any problems yet, but I wouldn't trust them for alternator wiring or subwoofers.
I've used a couple of these so far, and the quality isn't too far off what I'm used to with Weatherpaks and whatever it was that Nissan used to use. My race team captain bought a similar set a few year back and they've held up pretty well so far on our race cars. I think my biggest recommendation is not to run high current through them. I haven't had any problems yet, but I wouldn't trust them for alternator wiring or subwoofers.
Amsterdamned96
I'm Awesome
I’ve found a store local to me that can send some connectors my way.
Amsterdamned96
I'm Awesome
I’m currently trying to remove the harmonic balancer. I’ve had to remove the flywheel to mount the engine on the stand.
I’ve realised that I should’ve pulled the balancer off when it was still mounted on the frame with the flywheel on.
Does anyone have any tips as to how I can stop the crankshaft from turning when turning the harmonic balancer bolt CCW. I read something about feeding a piece of cotton rope through a spark-plug hole but the heads are already off. How could I do something similar without the heads mounted? Any help would be greatly appreciated as always.
Thank you all in advance.
I’ve realised that I should’ve pulled the balancer off when it was still mounted on the frame with the flywheel on.
Does anyone have any tips as to how I can stop the crankshaft from turning when turning the harmonic balancer bolt CCW. I read something about feeding a piece of cotton rope through a spark-plug hole but the heads are already off. How could I do something similar without the heads mounted? Any help would be greatly appreciated as always.
Thank you all in advance.
Thread two bolts into the crank flange so the threads go all the way through the flange, but not a lot deeper.
Stick a long pry-bar between the two bolts, so the bolts jam against the pry-bar when the crank turns. Pry bar will contact the floor on the left side of the engine (right side as viewed from the damper end.)
When it's me, I extend the four "legs" of the engine mounting brackets by at least an inch. Engine is held farther away from the engine stand, more room for flywheel/flexplate. Home-built engine stands used to use piston wristpins for those mounts--three inches long or more. Now the stand manufacturers use undersized, one-inch-long standoffs.
Photo 1. ****** Chinese engine stand with longer engine-mounting bolts, and three 1/2" nuts used as spacers at each bolt location. (12 nuts total.) I've also used sections of tubing instead of the nuts.
http://hbassociates.us/Cheap_Engine_Stand_02.jpg
I've also lengthened the slots in the mounting bracket, they're just exactly long enough to "fit" a Chevy V-8, but not long enough to position the engine low enough to create decent balance when rolling the engine upside-down on the stand.
Photo 2. ****** Chinese engine stand with flame-wrench extended slots. Still not long enough, but that's about all the too-small metal plate allows.
http://hbassociates.us/Cheap_Engine_Stand_03.jpg
The engine stands are deliberately built ****** by the manufacturers to cut costs and to weigh less for shipping concerns. They're dirtbags, but we already knew that since we know they're Communists. The bigger problem is the Communist Collaborators in this country who allow improperly-designed junk to reach the consumer market.
Stick a long pry-bar between the two bolts, so the bolts jam against the pry-bar when the crank turns. Pry bar will contact the floor on the left side of the engine (right side as viewed from the damper end.)
When it's me, I extend the four "legs" of the engine mounting brackets by at least an inch. Engine is held farther away from the engine stand, more room for flywheel/flexplate. Home-built engine stands used to use piston wristpins for those mounts--three inches long or more. Now the stand manufacturers use undersized, one-inch-long standoffs.
Photo 1. ****** Chinese engine stand with longer engine-mounting bolts, and three 1/2" nuts used as spacers at each bolt location. (12 nuts total.) I've also used sections of tubing instead of the nuts.
http://hbassociates.us/Cheap_Engine_Stand_02.jpg
You must be registered for see images attach
I've also lengthened the slots in the mounting bracket, they're just exactly long enough to "fit" a Chevy V-8, but not long enough to position the engine low enough to create decent balance when rolling the engine upside-down on the stand.
Photo 2. ****** Chinese engine stand with flame-wrench extended slots. Still not long enough, but that's about all the too-small metal plate allows.
http://hbassociates.us/Cheap_Engine_Stand_03.jpg
You must be registered for see images attach
The engine stands are deliberately built ****** by the manufacturers to cut costs and to weigh less for shipping concerns. They're dirtbags, but we already knew that since we know they're Communists. The bigger problem is the Communist Collaborators in this country who allow improperly-designed junk to reach the consumer market.
Last edited:
Amsterdamned96
I'm Awesome
Thank you sir
Amsterdamned96
I'm Awesome
I tried the method you’ve mentioned above with a 21mm wrench. I’ll try to pick up the 27/32” wrench that goes on the 12-point bolt, I can’t break it loose with the current setup. I’m worried I’ll the strip the head on it.
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
