What’s cheapest easiest way to get more hp & torque

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Night Bomber

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My 1998 RCSB C1500 has JBA shorty headers installed. Part number 1832S. JBA claims a 25+ hp gain and they bolt right on, no mods. AND THEY FIT!

It's no race car (probably a good thing I don't own one) but their claims about the gains are true. Your biggest challenges will likely be removing the bolts from the heads, exhaust collector, EGR tube and O2 sensor (s).

If you intend to do upgrades this likely should be your first.
 

HotWheelsBurban

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My 1998 RCSB C1500 has JBA shorty headers installed. Part number 1832S. JBA claims a 25+ hp gain and they bolt right on, no mods. AND THEY FIT!

It's no race car (probably a good thing I don't own one) but their claims about the gains are true. Your biggest challenges will likely be removing the bolts from the heads, exhaust collector, EGR tube and O2 sensor (s).

If you intend to do upgrades this likely should be your first.
3 quick questions: how much $$
And how difficult is the installation
And how well do they seal at heads and exhaust pipes
Thanks in advance!
 

jaywestfall

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My 1998 RCSB C1500 has JBA shorty headers installed. Part number 1832S. JBA claims a 25+ hp gain and they bolt right on, no mods. AND THEY FIT!

It's no race car (probably a good thing I don't own one) but their claims about the gains are true. Your biggest challenges will likely be removing the bolts from the heads, exhaust collector, EGR tube and O2 sensor (s).

If you intend to do upgrades this likely should be your first.

I had some of them ordered, but the vendor couldn't ever get them shipped for a month and a half. Got my money back and have a pair of Gibson GP102S, stainless arriving Thursday. I have Gibson 2.5" stainless dual split rear exhaust on it already.

They are advertising 15-20 HP gain too on the exhaust, but no HP claims on the headers.
 
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df2x4

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I would take any of these advertised performance gains with a grain of salt. There's no telling what else was done to fudge those numbers in the interest of selling more product. It's not like most customers are going to throw their vehicles on a dyno before and after to call these companies on their BS.

I have Pacesetter shorty headers on my red truck and while they did seem to make a small difference in low end torque, I guarantee you they didn't make more than a 5HP difference.
 

Hipster

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I would take any of these advertised performance gains with a grain of salt.

Yep. It's what I call magazine math. Up to xyz horsepower gains for parts x,y, and z according to the advertisements and people use those numbers or a sum thereof to brag on their engine. It's not reality.
 

SUBURBAN5

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You're not the one cooking a foil wrapped meal on your exhaust while riding around on youtube are ya? lmao
[/QUOTE]

Nope we had new company vehicles lol. But I got to admit when it's cold out the suburban is the only vehicle that I can park in the garage and it warms it enough to take off a jacket. My wifes 4cyl doesn't give that kind of heat lol
 

Pinger

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(From what I've read and understand the flow of electrical current is caused by electrons that flow negative to positive. The steps for jump starting a vehicle and why it's recommended to disconnect the negative battery terminal before working on them,never really made sense to me until I looked up "Electron Current" vs. "Conventional Current")
.

It's recommended to disconnect the negative battery terminal first. The reason for that is that it eliminates the possibility of a short circuit to the chassis when disconnecting the positive (when done).
If only one terminal is to be disconnected then obviously that is the negative one. Reconnecting is with the positive first for the same reason of short circuit risk.
 

Erik the Awful

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From what I've read and understand the flow of electrical current is caused by electrons that flow negative to positive. The steps for jump starting a vehicle and why it's recommended to disconnect the negative battery terminal before working on them, never really made sense to me until I looked up "Electron Current" vs. "Conventional Current"
Electron current vs conventional current has no effect on disconnecting the negative first. On a positive ground system you would want to disconnect the positive first.

On a negative ground system, the whole body of the vehicle is used as part of the ground circuit. If you put a wrench on the positive post and accidentally touch the body, it arcs. If you put a wrench on the negative post and accidentally touch the body, it does nothing. Once you remove the negative terminal, the positive post is then safe.

Electron vs conventional current is not really a thing. Current only flows from negative to positive. Wiring schematics are drawn from positive to negative. Why? Because we figured out how to get electricity to work for us before we understood how it worked. It's a convention that needs to die, but engineers are too set on drawing diagrams from positive to negative.

When I was learning how to work on a specific generator for the Air Force, we learned the wiring schematic. The switch & relay-controlled system had one component tray with circuit cards for faults. I think there were five transistors in the whole generator. As we were learning the schematic, the instructor was following the path of "potential" through the circuit, and as soon as he hit the transistors he started talking about "current" and reversed the direction he was tracing. He lost everyone in the class, but he was instructed that he had to teach it that way.

Wiring schematics should absolutely be drawn from negative to positive. Wiring diagrams show the actual wire location and connection, and still need to be laid out in the conventional manner.
 

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