Gmt400 brakes-master cylinder upgrade, residual valves, disc/drum MC differences. So much confusion.

Frank Enstein said:

Some things that weren't mentioned. Make sure the calipers float properly. If they don't it can lead to a high/hard or low/soft pedal. Bolt the caliper down with no pads. Then push the caliper in (toward the center of the truck) and out. If you can't move it with one finger (you may have to push FIRMLY with one finger) find out why and fix it. Usually it is the rubber stuff causing the issue clean or replace it and lube it with silicone brake grease. The rear shoes dig into the backing plates and leave a flat "V" shaped groove. Grind/polish it flat, Weld/braze it up and grind it or replace the backing plates. Also "polish" the parts of the brake shoes with a wire wheel or sandpaper. You just want it smooth without making it shorter. Lube the raised pads on the backing plates with a TINY amount of moly or graphite. Coloring it with a regular No.2 pencil is fine if you made it smooth enough. With the groove when you are creeping to a stop the shoes get stuck in the groove which gives you a high hard pedal and makes the fronts do all the work. And when you stop more firmly they jump the groove and toss you out on the hood. Replace ALL the brake drum hardware. It is dirt cheap and makes them more consistent

Braided PTFE hoses are the only way to go. Makes a HUGE difference even over brand new rubber hoses.

Earl's Solo-Bleed bleed screws are the best. Pricy though.

Ceramic pads and shoes are easy on the rotor/drums, make very little brake dust, grab a bit better, and last a long time. The Powerstop Z-16 pads are great for a daily driver. Follow the pad/shoe bedding in process that the manufacturer recommends. It DOES make a difference.

Fair warning: If you do braided hoses and Solo Bleeds on one vehicle you WILL do them for everything else you own!

O.K. I'm off my soapbox now. Go have fun!

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Ryan cin said:

What exactly does this do? I tried a while ago having no idea what I was doing. From what I remember the pin wouldn't push down at all, and it pushed out when the pedal was pressed.

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Frank Enstein said:

Also "polish" the parts of the brake shoes with a wire wheel or sandpaper. You just want it smooth without making it shorter. Lube the raised pads on the backing plates with a TINY amount of moly or graphite. Coloring it with a regular No.2 pencil is fine if you made it smooth enough. With the groove when you are creeping to a stop the shoes get stuck in the groove which gives you a high hard pedal and makes the fronts do all the work. And when you stop more firmly they jump the groove and toss you out on the hood. Replace ALL the brake drum hardware. It is dirt cheap and makes them more consistent

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Ryan cin said:

Might try this later on. Is there a difference between the braided and SS brake hoses? I'm still using the ones from the factory with 225000 miles on them. Should probably replace.

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