NBS brake swap on 2WD GMT400 almost complete

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Blazer_maniac

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The leaf spring on passenger side was broke up front and about to break in the rear, the front hanger was broken, I don't know what kept it together. When finished this truck will be very basic, no ac no heat, no ps no radio, probably a flat bed, 6.2 w/ 5 speed manual with dang good brakes hahaha
 

ccreddell

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I think you may have misunderstood me. The front hub-that bolts to the spindle-can be replaced by by one that has a 5X5.5 bolt pattern. Both made by the same manufacturer. Same mounting bolt pattern. Some offset. Just for those of us that want to keep a 5-bolt pattern.
 

Bob442

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I just found this thread and it’s saving my build, which is the road block I’ve hit, swapping the gmt900 front end.
 
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JoeMama

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To answer your questions, first let me explain the setup and its requirements. To use the gmt800-900 brake pkg a appropriate knuckle/spindle has to be used, on a 4wd its as simple as tossing in a new knuckle, on a 2wd not so. The balljoint orientation is different than any 800-900 platform, so a balljoint from one of those applications must be retrofitted to the 400 lca. Now the upper arm problem, no 800-900 applications fit either. I thought I had found one but it was way to short, so I used a LD2500 2wd arm. But still it was to short, I thought about cutting it and sleeving it to get the appropriate length, but the balljoint would have been at such an angle, I was afraid it would fracture and get me or somebody killed, especially the way I drive, also I didn't like the idea of a hacked up contol arm. So that got me thinking, if the arm was mounted out further my problems would be solved. I didn't want to have to make drastic changes so after some measuring I determined that moving the brackets out .5 inch and down .25 inch I should have enough to get good camber, after doing said modifications and installing the spring, it was necessary to also modify the spring, so I cut one coil off the bottom. After completing both sides, it looks great, I installed the engine to get some weight on the front and it appears I have 0* camber at full adjustment, and once more weight is added I should have even more adjustment.


So for clarification, after you moved the bracket(s) and re-welded them what upper control arm/lower control arm did you settle on? Im about to pull the same trigger as you did but entertained the idea of using a "lowered" version of spindle to lower the ride height for that sweet look lol..

Sorry to bring up an old post, love your work and I assume your ride turned out great! Stay safe during these crazy times! Thanks in advance!

My application is a 1995 Single cab stepside "show trucks usa" conversion LM7 swap SS2 cam+Turbo+T56 and yes I even have the OG "Factory body ground effects in great shape too" Im just trying to pull what you did for better wheel/brake options/ride height! Thus cant thank you enough for what you have done and ingenuity!
 
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