1994 K2500 No start after driving and up to temp.

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78Monte

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I'm thinking pick up coil

That's what I was thinking it might be too..

I just just get a whole new distributor but there is not much local to me, NAPA or duralast or Oreilly has spectra but I heard mostly bad about those..

We take this truck out in the woods alot where there is no service and you would be walking miles just to make it out of the logging roads so dependability is most important but money is tight at the moment and that is reality..

Thanks too all so far for your replies.
 

PlayingWithTBI

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NAPA or duralast or Oreilly has spectra but I heard mostly bad about those..
I bought the Spectra Premium GM-04 distributor and a Pertronix Flame Thrower coil (45K Volts) when I 1st put my engine together. They didn't last 2000 miles. Although I still have the body and pickup coil which still work, SO FAR. I replaced the parts with AC Delco 1984A ICM (with Arctic MX4 Thermal Compound), D303A Cap, and a D447 rotor. No more cheap stuff for this old fart!
 

mtl111

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If you want to save money, just get a pickup coil, changing it isn't hard at all. Once you get the distributor out, drive out the roll pin holding the gear on at the bottom and remove the shaft. The shaft will have "baked on" oil so use some carb cleaner to remove it, it will make removal of the shaft easier and when you put it back together. Replace the coil and reassemble.

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78Monte

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If you want to save money, just get a pickup coil, changing it isn't hard at all. Once you get the distributor out, drive out the roll pin holding the gear on at the bottom and remove the shaft. The shaft will have "baked on" oil so use some carb cleaner to remove it, it will make removal of the shaft easier and when you put it back together. Replace the coil and reassemble.

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I decided to just order a duralast from autozone it will be ready to pick up tommorow cap has brass contacts and reviews were decent enough plus lifetime warranty.

I don't know what most folks think of duralast but I've had decent luck with the couple parts I've used in my other rig so hopefully that continues.

I used there coil packs in my 02 GMC Envoy and have put about 10k on them and I needed a new radiator cap and bought a AC Delco from rock auto and it arrived defective.. It would not allow the system to pressurize and It would over heat.. Threw a duralast one on it been good for a few years now..


Will update, after I get this sorted maybe I can get to posting up some picks of the truck.
Thanks to all who posted.
 

df2x4

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I bought the Spectra Premium GM-04 distributor and a Pertronix Flame Thrower coil (45K Volts) when I 1st put my engine together. They didn't last 2000 miles.

I recently had a bunch of work done to my mom's 2004 Impala and during the process my mechanic replaced the MAF sensor with a Spectra. It's been doing weird stuff ever since we got it back. Occasional slight stumbles at idle, P0172 codes, etc. I haven't thrown a scanner on it yet but I'm tempted to just go buy an OEM MAF and slap it in there. I don't have much faith in Spectra electronics.
 

78Monte

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I see the spectra and Duralast both have GM-04 in the part number.. Is there a chance they are the same Distributor?

Now I'm kinda nervous about that Duralast..

RockAuto Has The OEM Delco (Reman) with no cap and rotor for 217.00 plus shipping..

Decisions, Decisions..
 

mtl111

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I would get the AC Delco, this should be the correct pn: 19179575. Aftermarket parts are hit and miss, my "rule" is if its a pain in ass to change, get the part in the GM or AC Delco box. Buy once, cry once.

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HotWheelsBurban

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Good to have a cap and rotor with brass contacts; they last much longer than the factory style aluminum ones. That's one of the things my Dad taught me, and it's proven right many a time. My Burb is a vortec 350, but they eat cheap rotors too. Until I got a Blue Streak one, and it's been in the truck for 2 years of daily driving in Houston, Texas traffic. The cheaper white rotors would only go 6 months at the most.
I agree with the guys that it must be the pickup coil or something else in the distributor. Because it definitely sounds like heat soak from your description. I've had modules do that too when they're going bad. From your username I presume you have knowledge of the early style GM HEI distributors, with the huge cap? The reason they got away from those is because in hot or humid weather, if the vehicle was run hard and the rotor went bad, the coil would cook the module. If I had a dollar for every early HEI rotor I've seen with a hole in it, I could buy another truck LOL. The factory style rotor plastic couldn't tolerate 40,000 volts indefinitely, so they'd get a pinhole burned in the recess under the terminal that the cap carbon button contacts. Blue Streak came out with a rotor in the mid 80s to help with this. Had one in every car and truck we ever had, lasted a lot longer. The dielectric compound is a must use on any HEI module, even the ones not in the distributor like the vortec engine.
It's also entirely possible that you have a bad module. "NEW" doesn't mean "GOOD".
Hopefully all the advice you've gotten helps, and you can get your truck reliable again. Last year I was ready to shoot the Burb because of a similar problem. I figured out what it was by process of elimination ( like you're doing), thanks to good advice on this forum. Good luck and let us know how it goes.
 

78Monte

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I would get the AC Delco, this should be the correct pn: 19179575. Aftermarket parts are hit and miss, my "rule" is if its a pain in ass to change, get the part in the GM or AC Delco box. Buy once, cry once.

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After sleeping on it, I think I'll just go with the Delco.. Thank you for the part number.

Hotwheelsburban
Yes I have a 1978 Monte Carlo and yes over the years have had to replace the cap and rotor a few times..

I got a blue streak coil and also a Standard motor products ICM that says made in the USA on the box so that was nice too see.

I'll try to get the New Dizzy ordered today and will update with any progress.
Thanks again.
 
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