Best radiator for the $$$

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Dewman67

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Anyone looked into that evens waterless coolent? Ads say no erosion, alot higher boiling point, and better heat transfer. But the stuff is pricey. I may use on my next new build, with a cleaned/new system.
 

Schurkey

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Anyone looked into that evens waterless coolent? Ads say no erosion, alot higher boiling point, and better heat transfer. But the stuff is pricey. I may use on my next new build, with a cleaned/new system.
When I "looked into" Evans years ago, there weren't as many variations as there are now.

The stuff was "Propylene Glycol" just like Sierra anti-freeze, which costs a fraction of Evans.
https://peakauto.com/products/antifreeze-coolants/automotive/sierra/

And then there's this: From the web site
https://greengarageblog.org/17-waterless-coolant-pros-and-cons

3. Heat isn’t moved as effectively with waterless coolant.
Even Evans Waterless Coolant offers a lower specific heat rating...

and

4. Engines typically run hotter at the cylinder heads.
Although the overall process creates a cooler engine for many vehicle owners, using a waterless coolant does make an engine run hotter at the cylinder heads. For a high-performance engine, the issue could change conditions by over 100°F. The stabilized coolant temperatures are increased by at least 30°F when the conversion takes place as well when compared to a 50/50 or traditional coolant. You’re also faced with an inhibitor disposition on aluminum surfaces, which may be problematic for some radiators.
and

6. Waterless coolant may reduce your horsepower rating.
When a full conversion to waterless coolant occurs, owners notice a small dip in the horsepower possible from their engine. Some high-performance engines see a drop of 5% or more. At the same time, the fuel octane requirement for the engine increases by up to 7 points, which further reduces performance if a shift in gasoline quality does not happen. The hidden costs of these issues to correct them further increases the overall expense of switching from a water-cooled system to this product.
Which is why I have NO interest in Evans waterless coolants.
 

Wilecoyote

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Should I replace the 2 temp. sensors while the engine is drained? The truck runs pretty good, a bit of shaking while idling and can see it on the tach.It's gone from mid 14s to 15s mpg city/highway since I put the new take off tires and wheels on it.The water pump was replaced 6 or so years ago.I assume the thermostat was not closing all the way as it took 10 mins or more to reach bout 210, then the gauge quickly went back down 2 clicks and stayed there. Which sensor sends the temp to the computer? the one by the thermostat or the one in the head?
 

Schurkey

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Sensor in the intake drives the computer, sensor in the head drives the gauge on the dash.

If the sensors are accurate, no point replacing them.

Connect a scan tool, look at the data stream. The reason for the idle shake is probably in there. Wouldn't hurt to do a cranking compression test, a cylinder-balance test, and/or a leakdown test to verify the health of all eight cylinders.
 

CrustyJunker

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Should I replace the 2 temp. sensors while the engine is drained? The truck runs pretty good, a bit of shaking while idling and can see it on the tach.It's gone from mid 14s to 15s mpg city/highway since I put the new take off tires and wheels on it.The water pump was replaced 6 or so years ago.I assume the thermostat was not closing all the way as it took 10 mins or more to reach bout 210, then the gauge quickly went back down 2 clicks and stayed there. Which sensor sends the temp to the computer? the one by the thermostat or the one in the head?

Up to you, but I'd advise leaving your temp sensors alone if they're working. Good ones cost a little bit of money and aftermarket ones simply aren't as good. The one by the thermostat sends to the computer for control, the one in the head is for the gauge.
 

Wilecoyote

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The only one that shakes is the fuel gauge and I don't care about it enough to pull the cluster. i'm not replacing the sensors, I can do it later if needed.
 

HotWheelsBurban

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The only one that shakes is the fuel gauge and I don't care about it enough to pull the cluster. i'm not replacing the sensors, I can do it later if needed.
That must be an " old 400" thing, my Burb does that too. As long as the gauge is pretty accurate (which it amazingly is! ) it can dance all it wants to!
 

badco

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Having Not read all the posts ill comment on the performance engine and cylinder heat part, no clue whar evans is but in almost all racing your not allowed antifreeze. So experienced racers use distilled water and red line water wetter. As far as something making engine cooler but cylinders hotter i would have to know how they got those results when the water in the engine just goes by the cylinders and keeps them from heating up. Ive seen oil in the coolant from oil cooler and it still flow plenty to cool engine.
 
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