Transmission and Transfer case

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RChevy96

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The other day I was driving into work and my drivetrain started making noise, binding up and stopped moving. It started when I would stop at a light. I would take my foot off the brake and it wouldn't role. I would give it some gas and it would pop. Kinda like when your rear drum breaks would stick if they need to be cleaned and adjusted. Than it would be fine until I stop again. After it did that a couple times The pop sound went to a crunch/grind swirling grind sound for a few seconds and go away. I pulled into a parking lot to see if my recently replaced u joint was bad. Everything looked okay visually and no leaks. I put my truck into reverse and heard some clanking underneath but it moved okay and than put it into drive heard more clunking for a few seconds than it wouldn't move. I could hear rattling in my transfer case in neutral, drive and reverse. I tried putting it into 4 Hi and 4 Lo with no movement. I shut my truck off and waited a few minutes started again and it would move for a few seconds and than nothing. After I had it towed home I checked trans fluid level was full and determined my pump was not working. Its a 4L60E transmission. Im looking at just under 4000 for either a transmission rebuild or gm reman installed. I looked at Monster performance transmission but I got mixed reviews. What is the best way to go with my trans? I figure there is something wrong with my transfer case too with all the noise I heard. Its a NP207 with electric shift. Thanks for any input.
 

df2x4

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Im looking at just under 4000 for either a transmission rebuild or gm reman installed.

Good lord... I paid around that for the 4L60E to 4L80E swap in my red truck and did zero labor myself...

Stay far away from Monster. They are garbage. If you're prepared to spend that much money I would strongly suggest looking into a 4L80E swap to prevent future issues.
 

Schurkey

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Complete overhaul on my '88 700 about three weeks ago came to $2633. This includes a torque converter, clutches, seals, band, sun shell, front planetary gears, pump cover, accumulator springs, a 'Vette 1-2 servo, fluid, filter, flush cooler, and all labor and "shop supplies".


$4K? You're being *****.

WHY do you think the pump isn't working?

I'd be looking at the transfer case first.
 

RChevy96

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The reason i think its my trans pump is.......I check my trans dipstick before running and can see the level is high on the stick. When i start it I check it and the level drops to the top of the cold level (pump working). I can put the trans in gear and it will move for a minute or two with no noises or clunks everything works fine. After that time I can hear noise from the torque converter and will not be able to move my truck in gear. I will check the dipstick again and the level is high like when the engine is off. I was told by my friend who is a mechanic that is a easy way to check if the pump is working.

On the cost I called around several places and was quoted the same price range. At the dealership they want for a rebuilt GM certified 4L60E..... $2500 with new torque converter, upgraded inner parts for known problems and 1500 for R&R with 3 yr 100,000 mile warranty. One of the tranny shops I called will completely rebuild the trans in my truck. Upgrade known issues parts and new torque converter and comes with a 3 year 100,000 warrenty for 3950. I also called a place called transmission Exchange in Portland and they have a rebuilt for 1750 transmission only with a 18 month unlimited mileage warranty. They seem to have a good reputation and good quality rebuilds. But than Im looking at 1200 to 1500 for R&R at a shop. I can do the work myself but Im finding out that all the places wont give a full warrenty If I install myself.

I had to save for a couple of months to afford this. I was thinking about the dealership might be the best option cause of the warrenty being nationwide and there is a chevy dealership everywhere. Rather than the local in town only tranny shop. Any extra input would be appreciated. Thanks
 

Schurkey

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$1500 for R & R is insane. That's 14 hours labor at $100/hr, plus a hundred dollars for 12 quarts of fluid. One wonders if they've included tax, "shop supplies", "Hazardous Waste Disposal", Customer Inconvenience Fee, Excess Profit fee, etc. in that estimate, or if that stuff is additional.
$2500 for a Genuine GM rebuilt seems reasonable to a little high. Summit has them for $1800 to $2150, depending on the specific application. 'Course, you'd have to add the core charge or the core charge shipping rate. Your local dealer is not all that far off, especially if that includes sales tax.

"My" rebuilt trans has a 2-year warranty serviceable at any ATRA-affiliated trans shop in America.
 
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