Swapping the Clutch on an R4 A/C Compressor

PlayingWithTBI · Aug 10, 2020

From previous post. Here's what it looks like now. I zip-tied the harness to the ground cable going to the front of the block.

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Here's the results. It appears to be working OK, I'll drive it for a while before performing a clutch-ectomy.

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I covered up the splices.

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Then I finalized my drawing. Note: the items with blue descriptions are added to OE design. The HP switch was installed a while back. Pretty simple deal, took me a little over an hour to do it.

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PlayingWithTBI · Aug 10, 2020

Ooops, I forgot the 15AMP fuse going from the battery to the relay.

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Schurkey · Aug 10, 2020

Buy some "Liquid Electrical Tape".

Every one of those crimp connections needs to be weather-sealed.

I would have used non-insulated terminals, and heat-shrink tubing (the kind with adhesive inside, it's like a coating of hot-melt glue that completely prevents water entry.)

Pleased that the clutch may be "good", and the power supply has been repaired "better than new".

Erik the Awful · Aug 11, 2020

There's no reason to use non-insulated terminals any more. These are seven cents a piece.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07L5JW5G9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

df2x4 · Aug 11, 2020

Erik the Awful said:
There's no reason to use non-insulated terminals any more. These are seven cents a piece.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07L5JW5G9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Those things are great. I bought a kit with a bunch of different sizes and they've been handy to have around. Solder, heat shrink and adhesive all in one.

PlayingWithTBI · Aug 11, 2020

Schurkey said:
I would have used non-insulated terminals, and heat-shrink tubing (the kind with adhesive inside, it's like a coating of hot-melt glue that completely prevents water entry.)

I thought about doing something like that but, I don't live in the rust belt, I don't even hardly drive it in the rain, LOL. It's pretty much become a garage queen. I wonder how good a shape it would have been in if I hadn't ignored it for the 1st 15 years I've owned it? :roflsquared:

PlayingWithTBI · Aug 18, 2020

A quick update, it seems my relay fixed the issue. Drove 90 miles today and no problems - it blew cold all the way. :waytogo:

alpinecrick · Aug 18, 2020

df2x4 said:
Those things are great. I bought a kit with a bunch of different sizes and they've been handy to have around. Solder, heat shrink and adhesive all in one.

That's what I have been using, too.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0871BBMB7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

someotherguy · Aug 19, 2020

Get you a ratcheting crimp tool; they make more of a positive crimp in the barrel vs. the dent the cheapo tool makes. Those solder-built-in and heat-shrink connectors are nicer than the regular ones, but you could step it up with a nice crimp tool as well.

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Richard

PlayingWithTBI · Aug 19, 2020

someotherguy said:
they make more of a positive crimp in the barrel vs. the dent the cheapo tool makes

It wasn't that cheap of a crimping tool, it's a Klein Staking tool. I just like using the "non-insulated" notch for crimping and make sure I'm crimping the solid side of the barrel, not the split side. Been doing it that way when building industrial, PLC control panels for years. That's another reason I don't solder any of my connections unless it's on a circuit board. NEC (National Electric Code) doesn't allow that because it makes the wire at the splice, brittle which may break under vibration. Take a look at all the GM pins and connectors, see any solder? Sorry but, it's the way I was trained.

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Swapping the Clutch on an R4 A/C Compressor

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