That is what He means. Also I see where someone said use the copper neverseze but for stainless, you use the silver neverseze.
Header bolts
- Thread starter Tim W
- Start date
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454cid
Sooper Pooper
Silver as in the metal silver, or the color? A lot of silver colored anti-seize is aluminum, I thought. I didn't think color was necessarily an indication of application, but I'm no expert on it. When I research what's available, I find many many more different anti-seize types than what we find in a local parts store, or hardware. I was able to find a copper anti-seize at the parts store.... I was looking for something more conductive for ignition parts on my Saturn (so as to provide a good ground).
I've got some old stuff, that may actually be lead.... the manufacturer unfortunately ignored my inquiry. It's some old mil-spec stuff that I've had for years. It appears that some of the offerings that met that spec contained lead. One of the really nice things about it, is that it doesn't separate.
Redneckgeriatric
I'm Awesome
probably nickel.
Yes nickel, not aluminum. And color is an indicator of what the neverseze is. Copper color, has copper in it and is ok to use for steel bolts, but nickel is for stainless bolts. It is important to neverseze any stainless bolt as this helps to easy the galling effect, although will not totally prevent it. I remove galled stainless bolts from stainless, monel , and inconel several times a week, because the people can not get them backed out of the tool they are in. And there are times that I can not get the bolt out, and it has to be milled out in the machine shop side of our shop. When you are dealing with tools that can cost $100,000 and more, it pays to get a shop like ours that can remove it for a few $100.
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Tim W
I'm Awesome
I will say this, ARP stainless steel is not the same kind of stainless as your 316 grade stuff from the hardware store. It's significantly harder. If I had iron heads, I think I'd like to try them.
I've used stainless ARP bolts in quite a few other applications, but I have not personally used them in a header application yet. I have used general-duty stainless bolts many times on collectors (both ball and socket/3-bolt flanged) without issue. Most of my vehicles with headers have aluminum heads, I was afraid to try stainless in those applications. One vehicle with iron heads I had studs with a few bolts where there wasn't clearance. They were inevitably rusty, too.
I vouch try them and let us know how it goes!
Iv got several hundred miles on them. Iv checked them after numerous heat cycles and they have not moved..
I ended up getting these. I did use the stainless "serrated" washers gibson provided with their bolts..
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-400-1209 and put this anti seize on them
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ptx-77134 .
Sure looks alot better than rusty bolts
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CrustyJunker
Is STILL Here?
Looks great, thanks for coming back and updating us!
alpinecrick
I'm Awesome
For those who want to test the integrity of their favorite method of header fasteners, I've got 20 miles of washboard county/USFS road that starts at 5600 ft up to 9200 ft. I've yet to see a set of headers make it up without bolts backing out. Indeed, I have a friend who broke the wires on wired header bolts on that road...
