Crank No Start

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stutaeng

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Which wire were you connected to on the ICM? I've got a wiring diagram from my Haynes manual. I'll post some photos here in a bit.

Not too likely it's the ECU, but just double check all of your fuses. Only way the ECU that I can think you can fry it is you bypass a fuse and still create a short, or something like that. Welding on a chassis without disconnecting a battery perhaps also would fry it.
 

thegawd

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Maybe I missed it but have you checked or changed the distributor? They are very prone to moisture when the vents in the base get clogged or maybe like on mine there was no vents. I drilled (2) 1/8" holes right where they were supposed to be and replaced the cap n rotor with delco. Fired right up.

Just because you have spark does not mean it is happening at the correct time. When the cap gets corroded and turns green the spark will take the shortest path to ground everytime, dosent matter where the rotor is pointing. Check, clean or better yet replace with a delco.

This happened to me over 5 years ago and iv never had an ignition problem since.

Al
 

krr711

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That's what I've been using to help me! I was just stuck, since it either didn't say or I missed it, that the signal wire would be on with ignition off. Currently, the LED blinks when the ignition is off using the test light design described in that guide.

That happened to me in my 1991 Chevy a few years ago. After going through everything it turned out to be the electronic pick-up in the distributor. It had enough power to give spark at the wires but not enough under engine compression. I replaced it and it fired right up.
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HotWheelsBurban

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Couple years ago the Burb wouldn't start. Replaced crankshaft position sensor, then it would crank, but still wouldn't fire off and run. Changed the rotor, it fired right up! I have a Blue Streak rotor and an Accel distributor cap, both with brass contacts. These distributors have issues with humidity and the cheaper parts with aluminum contacts and terminals will corrode. I drive this truck every day and the cheaper white rotors only last 6 months. The Blue Streak rotor has been in there for over a year now, working just fine!
Edit: there is a "crank" fuse in the dashboard fuse block, but if that's bad, it won't crank. I think it's a 10 amp but not sure, check the panel graphics.
 

Schurkey

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That happened to me in my 1991 Chevy a few years ago. After going through everything it turned out to be the electronic pick-up in the distributor. It had enough power to give spark at the wires but not enough under engine compression. I replaced it and it fired right up.
The pickup coil does not determine spark strength--only spark timing. Either the pickup coil electrical signal is strong enough to trigger the module, or it isn't.

The module, ignition coil, and their power supply determine spark strength.
 

Nad_Yvalhosert

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1st time responder. I have similar conditions with my '00 Yukon Denali. In my case, the Theft Deterrent system is the culprit. And I blame FRED.

Friggen
Ridiculous
Electronical
Device

Does your "Security" light begin flashing when you turn on the key? If so, you have been spinning you wheels loading up your parts cannon

Do a key relearn. Ignition key on for 10 min, off for 30 seconds. Key back on and if the "Security" light goes off, she'll likely start
 
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