Bought a CC Dually 454 Whipple

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White96k2500

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I did end up getting that socket set for the weird plugs on the cooler housing, came with a bunch of other weird stuff that may save my ass some day.

I also ordered up a rubber bed mat and tow mirrors.

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They appear to be plug and play and the pics show the extra bracket to hold them steady. Just need to bolt in the front tie downs, get this **** installed, and I'll be ready for a camper.
I realize this is from 2018 but is there anyway you know who the seller or brand was?
 

Supercharged111

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So I swiped these Rockford Fosgate speakers from my flipper, finally swapped them into my good dually and jammed those stockers into the flipper. Mission success there, but I found this frickin mess after I went for the driver's side.

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It was a damned brick under the loose ****. Consisted of mud and seeds. Nasty @$$ $hjt.

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Next up is stuff that I apparently didn't realize wasn't working. More to come there as a tiny human usually occupies that real estate.
 

Supercharged111

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Not sure what I was on about with the wee one in the previous post. Today I wired up the lights on the tow mirrors that I installed back in 2018. I have the signals on front and back and the weak ass backup lights. Left signal went smooth, right one wouldn't work. I took the door back apart to see why and the damn connector was mispinned. This in addition to the fact that left is right and right is left with the mirror adjustment. I don't believe Boost's claim that they test every mirror. After repinning, it works fine. Next was the reverse lights. Their install video recommends tapping into the harness down by the fuel filter. Umm, no. That's a great place to invite corrosion. Instead I did it up under the hood once I found the damned wire. I could not find it with a test light to save my life even though I knew which one it was, the only light green wire headed to the back of the truck. Looks like the range switch isn't doing its job. So I jumpered power to the backup lights to verify the wire instead, they're all hooked up now but inop because the range switch is an asspain. I have one on hand, they just suck to deal with. Also fixed that previously id'd busted ass wiring. Turns out that was my rear speakers so they're back now too.

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Hopefully the little condoms keep moisture out of the connections. I think I'll be OK as I don't drive this much in the winter. Interior is finally all buttoned back up. Gonna shift my focus back to the flipper again. I got the door panels cleaned up for it. Gonna look better than my drivers!
 

BNielsen

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On the reverse lights I just pulled and connected the switched 12V feed on the cargo-light switch; I wanted to be able to control the lights separately, plus it let me wire in my bumper lights to the cargo switch by using the mirror light wiring I had tucked under the dash.
 

Supercharged111

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I could do both with a diode, thanks for the idea.

In other news, the truck has always had an issue with the camper in the bed where I punch it from a dig and the wheel rotates to the right. This means either the left side is toeing out or the right side is toeing in. When I hit the brakes and the front end dives back down, the wheel spins back to straight or left of straight. I decided to go after the lower control arm bushings as those appear to be the cause of the wife's Envoy doing the exact same thing. What a f'in mess. I expected it to be more of an asspain than initially projected, which it was. I did not expect the ball joint press to fail me to the point that I had to yank the arms and take them to a hydraulic press tomorrow. Check out this garbage. The bushings install from the outside in and the bolts install from the inside out. Which means the damned diff and axle flanges sit dead in the way. Makes me want to dig up dead engineers and shoot them in the face.

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So we had to leave the opposite side loosely installed and drop the applicable side to sneak the damned bolt out. They're not going back in the same way. Either that or I learn tomorrow why it is this way to begin with.

And here you can see the ball joint press coming up short. The press itself was too short for the stack up needed to send these mf'ers home and pushing on the rubber got us this far.

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So tomorrow you'll get to see whether or not the lowers were the cause or if it's the uppers that I don't want to deal with because it'll involve an alignment.
 

White96k2500

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I could do both with a diode, thanks for the idea.

In other news, the truck has always had an issue with the camper in the bed where I punch it from a dig and the wheel rotates to the right. This means either the left side is toeing out or the right side is toeing in. When I hit the brakes and the front end dives back down, the wheel spins back to straight or left of straight. I decided to go after the lower control arm bushings as those appear to be the cause of the wife's Envoy doing the exact same thing. What a f'in mess. I expected it to be more of an asspain than initially projected, which it was. I did not expect the ball joint press to fail me to the point that I had to yank the arms and take them to a hydraulic press tomorrow. Check out this garbage. The bushings install from the outside in and the bolts install from the inside out. Which means the damned diff and axle flanges sit dead in the way. Makes me want to dig up dead engineers and shoot them in the face.

You must be registered for see images attach

So we had to leave the opposite side loosely installed and drop the applicable side to sneak the damned bolt out. They're not going back in the same way. Either that or I learn tomorrow why it is this way to begin with.

And here you can see the ball joint press coming up short. The press itself was too short for the stack up needed to send these mf'ers home and pushing on the rubber got us this far.

You must be registered for see images attach


So tomorrow you'll get to see whether or not the lowers were the cause or if it's the uppers that I don't want to deal with because it'll involve an alignment.
If you wanna knows the truth, i cut the bolts that hit the diff and got new ones.
 
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