bedliner for floor pans

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someotherguy

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I'd go with POR-15. Some people talk trash about it but I think most failures of POR-15 come down to not following the directions. They even have a very simple "cheat sheet" that they call "directions for people that don't like to read directions"

I had similar surface rust on my 3500HD project; I knocked all the loose stuff out with a wire cup brush on my drill, then painted almost the entire cab interior. I did the engine side of the firewall too, as it was formerly a diesel and the insulation pad that was there had caused a little surface rust. Plus, the truck was getting painted black afterwards...

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Just please...please...read the instructions carefully before you use it. It's nasty stuff. But, not nasty like bedliner!

Richard
 

KRS1

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Thanks someotherguy, good idea with the POR. I have used POR on the truck (and drag car etc) so far but I find it sticks better to sandblasted/bare surfaces.
I found when I even used the tie coat etc (when applying it over existing paint) it ends up peeling off. I might just wire brush the bad areas and "spot paint" the POR. I don't want to strip the floor. The floor also has some various drill holes that I will weld in patches as well...
Maybe just paint the floor white again..
 

someotherguy

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According to them (I'm sure you already know this) bare metal isn't their ideal surface, which is why I just gave the floor the wire brush cup treatment. I never saw any peeling from any surface I applied it to, and that includes the entire frame of that truck. The frame had lost every bit of its original coating and had heavy surface rust. I took it to the car wash and blasted it with degreaser, then wire brushed the large sections with a wheel and whatever crevices I reasonably could get to by hand with a brush.

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I didn't do those couple crossmembers you can see at the rear of the frame since they were slated to be removed for the wrecker unit install later. I had the truck for about 2.5 years and no peeling anywhere. It went to Ohio after that and I lost track of it.

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TechNova

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Catylized bedliner is going to be no different than a catalyized paint. It will give off some fumes for 30-90 days until cured.
a paint without a hardener would be a bigger concern since it will resoften and give off fumes when hearted.
Either way, covering something up is not the ideal solution. POR fits a need but view it as slowing down the problem not eliminating it.
 

KRS1

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Yep, I did the same in terms of wire brushing (using air tools etc) and the POR started to peel in some spots. I also must say that I didn't use the necessary "top coat" to prevent UV rays so perhaps that is why it peeled.. I guess overall it will still protect the frame etc. The POR painted surfaces (on my truck) were also exposed to the elements than my race car which I sits indoors mostly

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someotherguy

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Yeah, that's a lot of bare metal, clean-ish, vs. the heavy surface rust that was on mine. They probably would have recommended you started with their metal prep product to etch the metal.

Richard
 

KRS1

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Yep, I actually did use the metal ready as well..oh well it probably is doing a better job than your standard Rustoleum/Tremclad (what the brand name is in Canada)..
In this video I have some footage of the freshly painted POR areas..
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24 Karat Brown

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I was planning on using Rustoleum spray on bedliner for my truck. I dont have bad rust issues but there are spots I want to touch up. I got the "professional" grade paint+primer stuff that claims to stop rust. My floor pan is very clean, but there are just spots I dont like the look of
 
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