1990 C1500 ABS (RWAL) removal.

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On 95+ one way to find out if it's your ABS unit causing the mush pedal is to pull the 60A fuse that's in the box under the hood. I did this to mine which has: 3500 calipers, stainless steel lines, new cylinders, rear shoes, new MC, and pads, even though this did quite a bit for the trucks stopping power, yanking the ABS fuse made the pedal feel much, much better. Only down side is that it will throw the ABS light, but as stated above you can just unplug the whole module and be done with that too, or go all the way and bypass the ABS module entirely.
this does have an effect but is not the same as removing that box full of mush in the actual line
 

bobby v

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Gotta do this and proabably will when I do disc for the rear
Bobby v
PS Ill do this and if it improves them enough then I'll shine on the Disc conversion, spending too much on this damned thing LOL
 
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bobby v

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OK 3 questions if you please
How much fluid can I expect to come out when disconnecting the lines ????????
Does the line that gets moved from the dump valve to the Porportioning valve move over there easily or do I have to worry about it bending ??
What do you do with the electrical plugs, just tape them off or do they plug in somewhere else ???
Think I'll try this my self
Thanks for you reply
Bobby V
 

bobby v

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Ok so I got to doing this today and all was going swell till I tried to break loose the fittings on the dump valve, after almost 30 years of being together they didn't want to come apart, in fact they didn't even after soaking them with Screw loose, all three kinked the brake line and finally came out looking like a pigs tail, even the one line that was going back to the proportioning valve :bawl:
So I had to try to disconnect that at the union at the bottom of the firewall and with headers it was a, excuse my French, a mother *****!!! Stuck like hell and no room to work period!!!! I soaked it with loosen juice and let it sit awhile, no dice, so I got my little butane torch out and heated it some. After cussing every word known to man it finally broke loose, Yippee. So off to the parts store for a brake line and Ill try to finish 2morrow after I attempt to bend the new one to fit, then I guess Ill have to bleed the rears for sure now. I hope it all works after this fiasco
Wish me luck
Bobby V
So had trouble with the lower brass union leaking damnit, but I turned the line end for end and it stopped, bled rears and all seems natural, good pedal. The ABS light came on for awhile but just went for a test run and its out now ???
So inspite of having some problems its all good :grd:
 

bobby v

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Follow up, now i find out that when I do the rear disc brake swap its strongly suggested to bring back the proportioning valve,oh well good experience i guess
Bobby V
 

bobby v

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OK follow up on mistaken previous post, the purportioning valve was still there as it was, my bad.
The conversion is done and instead of retuning the system to OEM status we left the previously removed items OFF, the thught was why put them back on if they didn't perform before why would they now. So the "dump vlave" and the "black box" are still gone and the brakes are fine, feels like they should. No ABS lights either
Bobby V
 

bobby v

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OK follow up on mistaken previous post, the purportioning valve was still there as it was, my bad.
The conversion is done and instead of retuning the system to OEM status we left the previously removed items OFF, the thught was why put them back on if they didn't perform before why would they now. So the "dump vlave" and the "black box" are still gone and the brakes are fine, feels like they should. No ABS lights either
Bobby V
 

delta_p

OBS Chevrolet, When Silverado Was A Trim
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Does anyone know, the proportion valve, can it be adjusted?
Not really. Well you might be able to put in a stiffer or lighter spring and increase or decrease the cutoff pressure. Better to eliminate it and route your own in line to the rear with a knob to adjust the spring force, the cutoff pressure.
 
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