383 Stroker advice

So, I'm finally getting all of my ducks in a row for putting a 383 stroker in my truck. Being completely upfront here, I've never done this before, but what's the purpose of having multiple vehicles if I can't garage one for a few weeks to get a major upgrade done? Because I'm newb to engine rebuilding, I would like some direction on how to go about this, and what parts I need.

I'm pulling my Vortec 350 out, and having it machined, I know I need to have it bored .030" over, what else needs to be done to the block and the heads while it's at the machine shop?

As for parts, I'm looking at this rotating assembly from Eagle
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...68ZtVKmrMmfVODHCz93PF2RT906u-ck4aAolPEALw_wcB

I'd also like to rebuild the heads while I'm there, truck is always going to be naturally aspirated, and I want to run at about 10:1 compression or less so I can continue running regular gas. Does anybody have a recommended cam and valve train setup for rebuilding the heads? I'm looking for a flat torque curve, and will be having the ECM tuned as well.

Other than the assorted running gear (water pump, oil pump, etc.) what else do I need to get this done? I understand the mechanics of it, but I'm not sure what is and isn't included in these kits that I need to purchase to get the engine fully rebuilt.

I haven't done this - yet - either. FWIU you need to clearance the block for the crank too.

Just tell the machinist that ur doing a 383, he should know to check for clearance. As for a cam, I ran comp cams with good success, so maybe check their page out and see what they recommend.

you linked a 350 kit for pre 85 rear main seal. You might want to do a little research before spending money.
Talk to the machine shop, but a knowledgable consumer makes better decisions.
There was a guy that head step by step 383 videos on YouTube, he had a series of videos and compared heads also.

You also need to keep note as to which harmonic balancer and flexplate your stroker kit uses. A stock 400 crank is externally balanced, while the 350 is internally balanced.

For the block it has to be clearance at the machine shop (for the larger stroke), maybe decked, perhaps aligned honed. I assume your block is a 1 piece seal? So make sure you have the proper crank for that.. The heads combustion chamber should also be measured as you might need a dished piston head to keep the combustion at the recommended level

Call summit or jegs, whoever you go with. Tell them what you want to go. You will need a 1 piece rear main seal crank. Ask for a balanced kit. It will cost more but its cheeper to buy it done than pay the machine shop. You have to have ot done or the motor wont last. You dont need a forged kit by any means but get your kit before you take your block in. The machine shop will want the pistons so they can do the finishing hone to the proper size.

I have also looked into going with a 383, and would probably go with the following Scat rotating assembly. I prefer Scat over Eagle.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sca-1-91105bie

This kit is balanced, and uses an externally balanced flexplate (included), and internally balanced harmonic balancer.

Have the machine shop check the deck for squareness while they have it. The kit above would put the pistons at 0.017 in the hole with the stock 9.025 deck height. If the block doesn't require any decking, you could go with a head gasket with a compressed thickness of 0.028 to give you a quench of 0.045, which is a reasonable place to be. With a head with a 64cc chamber, you would be at a pump gas friendly 9.57 compression ratio.

Besides clearancing the oil pan rails of the block for the stroker crank, also have the machine shop check clearance with the cam. Using a smaller base circle cam can either reduce or eliminate the need for clearancing the rods/rod bolts. The clearance still needs to be checked during the assembly process though. It doesn't hurt to verify the machine shop's work.

Cam specs will be influenced by many things, such as intended usage, cylinder heads, fuel delivery system, intake manifold, exhaust, transmission, rear end gears, etc. The major cam manufacturers have a cam recommendation page on their websites. Enter the required info into the submission form, and they will make a recommendation based on your individual setup.

My preference is a hydraulic roller cam setup with OEM style lifters, dogbones and retainer.

FWIW, Comp Cams came back with the recommended cam specs below for me. My proposed build is a 383 with 700R4 (2200-2400 stall) with 3.42 rear end. I'm wanting to use Dart SHP aluminum heads (180cc intake), Edelbrock Pro-Flo 4 multi-port EFI, shorty headers with 2.5" dual exhaust.

Adv. duration 276/281
Duration @ .050 lift 224/230
Lift .503/.510
Lobe separation 112
Intake centerline 108

https://www.compcams.com/xtreme-ene...0-hydraulic-roller-cam-for-oe-roller-sbc.html