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I know, and probably won't, I'm just leery about welding to a different alloy which may cause stress cracking in the frame. Why do you think they used rivets for their mounts (as well as building bridges like the Golden Gate)? Rivets will allow expansion and contraction without causing undue stresses.Mine has the same gap. Welded it to the frame so wasnt to big a deal. Its never going any where.
Im sure they are both mild steel. They rivet it because its easy and fast.I know, and probably won't, I'm just leery about welding to a different alloy which may cause stress cracking in the frame. Why do you think they used rivets for their mounts (as well as building bridges like the Golden Gate)? Rivets will allow expansion and contraction without causing undue stresses.
Nope, frames are higher tensile strength, do you think it's cheaper to punch holes in a frame and then set soft, heated rivets, rather than setting up a jig to hold the mounts in place while a robot welds it? Then wait for law suits when the frame develops cracks. Past experience tells me, it's not a good idea to weld hardened steel without preheating and proper cooling after.Im sure they are both mild steel. They rivet it because its easy and fast.
I wouldn't heat the frame, I'd weld the spacer to the C-notch then bolt it together.
IMO, the top plate adds strength to the C-notch turning it into a channel iron instead of an angle. Channel iron is structural so it doesn't allow the top web of the angle to distort with torque and/or side forces.It bothers me how the top plate isn't bolted but it must just be there for added strength of the angle.
IMO, the top plate adds strength to the C-notch turning it into a channel iron instead of an angle. Channel iron is structural so it doesn't allow the top web of the angle to distort with torque and/or side forces.
I'd put a stitch weld on both ends and a couple on the inside, once you bolt it together, the bolt will hold the spacer in place. Making everything rigid isn't necessarily the best way to go. These frames flex a lot going down the road and all the ancillary attachments need to also. Why do you have bushings in the leaf springs, shock mounts flex, and the shackles pivot?When I weld the spacer to the Belltech notch would you weld all sides or just the outside edges?
I'd put a stitch weld on both ends and a couple on the inside, once you bolt it together, the bolt will hold the spacer in place. Making everything rigid isn't necessarily the best way to go. These frames flex a lot going down the road and all the ancillary attachments need to also. Why do you have bushings in the leaf springs, shock mounts flex, and the shackles pivot?
If that's the case, I wouldn't worry about it. Just leave it there as long as your other mounting holes are centered and not too close to the top or bottom of the frame webs. Your pictures showed the gap on the bottom so, I was going on that premise...I was going to add the spacer under the upper lip of the notch, to lift the whole thing up. There are no bolt holes on the top so the weld would hold the spacer only.