5 speed or 4l60e bust!......the saga continues.....

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Hey guys! Just finished up my 5 speed swap on my 93 k1500. My 4x4 isn't engaging at the axle. While on the lift adjusting the manual shift t-case linkage, I verified that it does lock and unlock the shafts in it's appropriate gears. I suspected when I bought the truck that the axle wasn't engaging but my smoked 4l60e wasn't helping so I ignored it. Tooling through my field last night it was obvious my axle isn't engaging. I did notice between the a/t and m/t cases that the indicator switch above the shift linkage on the top of the cases were different. One is a longer three pin ball type switch that came with the truck as an automatic trans manual 4x4. The other is a much shorter two pin ball type switch. My first inclination was to switch them but then the observation of length told me not to. Now my harness is the three wire plug type.

Does this switch control the front axle actuator thus causing my lack of four wheel peel and can I wire it up for the two pin style my m/t case has?

Thanks in advance for any help!!
 

RichLo

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So 4wd didn't work with either trans? Are you reusing the same t-case?

I assume the thermal actuator on the front axle is the problem since its a common fail point unless you already replaced it?
 
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No it didn't work with either trans. Turned out to be a bad splice by the bell housing where power comes into the 4x4 harness. Got it all working, even the ancient actuator, I've heard of the cable and electric motor systems.....any body have any experience with those systems? This works but man it takes a hot minute to lock......
 

alpinecrick

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Yes, the factory thermal actuator has an aggravating delay. The electric actuators don’t have a delay, and are more “positive” in their lockup. BUT the electric actuators don’t like to be immersed in water.
It’s easy to see why, the two halves of the case are not sealed around the seam.
After shorting one electric actuator from immersion, I sealed the seam on my new one with epoxy for plastic and then put a zip tie around the seam to give the epoxy protection. I did this to the electric actuators on both my 96 and 97.
So far so good.
The cable actuated setup appears to be a PIA to install, more expensive, and I definitely don’t like the cable running down by the front axle.
 
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RichLo

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...or full time 'socket trick' front diff... only loose 0.5mpg or less and it's always there no matter what.
 
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I'll keep that in mind. I was wondering about the electric actuator myself. But I'm learning to be patient. I agree on the cable, and I like a stock look interior, not a huge knob hanging out somewhere. I've heard of the socket trick, but aside from mpg, idk as I'd want the axle live all the time, that's putting alot of unnecessary stress on axles steering and tires, not to mention the axle and drive shaft its self.
 
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