Disc conversion for 10 bolt

If its 6 lug a full rear end swap from 99-02 is cheap and easy. Just need spring perches and shock mounts. Took me about 3 hours and $300.

Markmartin01 said:

If its 6 lug a full rear end swap from 99-02 is cheap and easy. Just need spring perches and shock mounts. Took me about 3 hours and $300.

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Basically the same as the older rear ends I think what all parts did u use?

Markmartin01 said:

If its 6 lug a full rear end swap from 99-02 is cheap and easy. Just need spring perches and shock mounts. Took me about 3 hours and $300.

Click to expand...

I've been going back and forth on this, and is one reason why I haven't pulled the trigger on putting disks on my 10 bolt yet.
That and I'm not very happy with this 10 bolt I picked up from the JY. It goes down the road fine, noisy but fine.
Although I can't say I've ever heard a quiet 10 bolt...

Doesn't help that I've also been procrastinating buying a decent welder.

Did you end up re-using the spring perches and shock mounts from the NBS rear, and just welding them to proper width and such?
Same u-joint as the 10 bolts?
There's some other posts about it, but I don't recall it being a very clear and concise conclusion.

You'll never reuse perches bc they are destroyed getting them off. I got perches from moroso and shock tabs from Summit. Got lucky and the original ujoint was exactly the same as the 2000 z71 donor. Just hack one side perch off so you can keep a level on the other side. Repeat. I even reused the brake lines off the old rear and just rebent the ends to reach the caliper. Same ID so no reason to change. Didnt even have to change the prop valve. Back grabs fine and no lockup.

Oh, and both NBS and universal perches are probably an inch shorter than OBS. Expect an inch of ride height lost afterward. NBS had a factory 1" block so use those if you have them.

Also, the centering bolt was a bit larger diameter than the universal moroso perch hole. Dont forget to hog it a size or two before tacking on the perches. Otherwise you have to shorten a step bit like I did.

I put disks on my 91 K1500 back in 94. I used some GM metric calipers, It was not worth the investment it did not make a noticeable difference in the stopping.

http://www.cruizers.org/reardisc.html
I am doing this ....also
https://www.ebay.com/itm/14-Bolt-GM-Disc-Brake-Conversion-Spacers-60mm/132304775377?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

the seller also mentions at the bottom they can make the 20mm spacers. I bought the 60mm . Because I am also doing the 14 bolt 6 lug swap . I also plan on doing this too.

https://www.gmt400.com/threads/nbs-astro-knuckle-brake-upgrade.20774/

all this along with the master brake cylinder mod too .

basically i will end up with the whole brake system out of the 02 Yukon . that I bought for 500 to do my LS swap

The "metric " calipers are probably the ones for GM midsize cars, that use a D154 pad IIRC. Used to sell lots of those back in the day (parts store in the early 80s). The rotor on these cars has a 5 on 4 3/4" lug pattern, whereas the full size GM s use a D52, and have a 5 on 5" lug pattern like our 2wd trucks do. But there are some impalas that have the smaller pattern, so you have to look closely. The truck rotors are bigger and run on a larger spindle and bearings.
Back in the day my dad and I had 70-72 Monte Carlos and we were looking at upgrades to the brakes. The 73-77 ones had 11" drums on the back and the first generation only had 9 1/2" drums. Station wagon drums were deeper and used a wider shoe. If I was building the car now it'd have 4 wheel discs, but that was not really available back in the 80s. Point being, there are lots of updates that can be made, if you're looking at everything in the parts books and the yards. Just have to remember what car your stuff came from originally when you get parts..... but hot rodders have been doing this for decades