Electric fan sensor location

Ehall8702 · Jan 23, 2020

CrustyJunker said:
This thread looks pretty full, but I figured I'd chime in and add a ditto on putting fan control in the thermostat housing. Of course should it be a permanent thing...I know you said the plans were temporary until your 0411 swap.

I've tried both methods. Initially put a sensor in the passenger-side head and the fans ran a lot more (unnecessarily). Setting up my fan temperature controller was also much less consistent and sort of a pain. I bought the same brand thermostat housing spacer that Big G mentioned earlier, just an anodized version for a little extra corrosion resistance. Solved my fan cycling/running all the time!

Yeah that's the thing, it's only temporary untill the swap , maybe a month or so out ND it s winter for another 2-3 months so I should be alright, I got 2 runs of 1/0 wire ziptied to the top of rad lol, kinda scared fan is gonna eat it with big fan

Diptenkrom · Jan 24, 2020

sorry , not trying to thread jack, but this is a related question:

what sensor are you guys using in the waterneck to get the fan control? i am planning on this setup myself, and was wanting to do it that way, but was unsure what fan switch I needed to source. are any of you using dual or 2 stage fans, as i was thinking of going 2 speed, and i assume that effects teh switch?

kennythewelder · Jan 24, 2020

Well, I like to run my truck a little cold. 185 to 195 is what Im running. i tired using a cheap sensor and it failed quick, so I went to Orileyles and after a lot of looking I got one for a 1970s BMW I think. Here is a pic of the box.

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Diptenkrom · Jan 24, 2020

Thanks! is this just a 1 speed fan switch? just curious, as i have not sourced the fan yet. but considering a cobalt fan if i go single speed, as that thing moves some air.

kennythewelder · Jan 24, 2020

Yes. Its a off on switch with 2 wires. 1+ in and 1+out, of I guess you could do negative if you want to, but what you tie into one side, is what you will get out of the other side once the switch trips closed at 195, then it will open @ 175 turning off the fans. I have 2 other sources to turn on my fans. A switch at the AC clutch wired to a separate relay so it can not back feed anything else. And a 3ed switch on my dash that will power the fans on no matter what else is on or off as a fail safe. I used a cargo light switch for this, I got from the salvage yard. The 3ed cargo light switch is for some AUX back up lights I have.

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Diptenkrom · Jan 24, 2020

Was considering wiring this way, i have had 3 thoughts on this:

1 > just a simple temp on/off
2 > 2 speed, low always on, and high with temp switch
3 > 2 speed low on temp switch, and high on manual switch

all would have provision for A/C as well. the second option is what i most likely will do with A/C or temp switch being the High Speed mode

kennythewelder · Jan 24, 2020

My fans come off a 2004 Cadillac DTS. They are 2 speed, but, the low speed in not in the motor, it is in the control circuit. On low, the Cadi ECM supplies a lower voltage than on I, I think. Any way, they are very quiet. So I just wired them on full voltage. My set up has been on my truck for about 2 years, and I have never had an issue. Here is my write up on mine. It covers what and how I did mine.
https://www.gmt400.com/threads/electric-fan-swap-on-the-cheap.41756/#post-1006460

Diptenkrom · Jan 24, 2020

kennythewelder said:
My fans come off a 2004 Cadillac DTS. They are 2 speed, but, the low speed in not in the motor, it is in the control circuit. On low, the Cadi ECM supplies a lower voltage than on I, I think. Any way, they are very quiet. So I just wired them on full voltage. My set up has been on my truck for about 2 years, and I have never had an issue. Here is my write up on mine. It covers what and how I did mine.
https://www.gmt400.com/threads/electric-fan-swap-on-the-cheap.41756/#post-1006460

Thanks man, ill read that when i get home!

CrustyJunker · Jan 24, 2020

I'm using Flex-A-Lite fans with their variable speed PWM controller, but bought the sensor that goes directly in contact with coolant (radiator probes don't work well for me). It ramps up from 60% - 100% depending on your set temperature, can be forced on or even forced off (like if going through deep water), and runs up to 30 seconds after you shut the truck off to continue cooling if needed.

HotWheelsBurban · Jan 26, 2020

kennythewelder said:
I used to think the same thing before I learned how. Its a process. A lot like painting. First the metal needs to be sanded smooth, with course paper the med, then fine. This can all be done with a DA sander. For my bow tie, I didnt need to start with course, just med, then fine, then polish with white jewelers rouge, then hand buff with white dimmond metal polish. You cam see the tools I used in one of the pics. I sanded them, polished the big one, painted the small one, and wired it with LEDs in 1 afternoon. The LEDs are on the back of the black bow tie.
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That is badass!

Electric fan sensor location

Ehall8702

I'm Awesome

Diptenkrom

Newbie

kennythewelder

Officially Retired, B31-3 (6-G) certified welder.

Diptenkrom

Newbie

kennythewelder

Officially Retired, B31-3 (6-G) certified welder.

Diptenkrom

Newbie

kennythewelder

Officially Retired, B31-3 (6-G) certified welder.

Diptenkrom

Newbie

CrustyJunker

Is STILL Here?

HotWheelsBurban

Gotta have 4 doors..... Rawhide, TOTY 2023!

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