Please help, I've never been stumped like this

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Tahoe_Pete

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Ok 97 2500 with 5.7 auto ext cab lwb. Got it with an o2 code and knock sensor code. Changed both and still a little rough but ran and drove. Decided to upgrade Injector to multiport, Pulled lower manifold to clean as it had tons of carbon build up. Upon installation I noticed the distributor gear was warn so I replaced with new metal distributor. Full tune up plugs coil cap rotor fuel filter. Fuel pressure was at low 50s so decided to replace fuel pump. Was given bad advise and reset computer by removing battery terminals and touching for a short period of time. Now I have a no start it just starts and dies immediately. There is no security light, not even a bulb. CEL is p1375 I think. Adjusting distributor 1 tooth either way makes it worse. Noticed door jamb switch was busted so I replaced (here is the odd part) now no CEL not even during initial bulb check so I removed it. Finally got to idle halfway smooth but falls flat on face at the touch of throttle. No vacuum leaks. STFT b1 and b2 are at 50 and LTFT read 25. Any ideas on this on. Thanks for any help you can offer.
 

deadbeat

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Dumb questions on my part, I had one act like you are saying and it was the rotor button. Although to me it sounds like a fuel/air problem, does it have good fire or is it yellow? If you pour a tiny amount of gas down the intake does it smooth out at idle? Just a few things that I'm sure you have already checked.
 

texas tough

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did u put the correct fuel pump[ in? different fuel systems use different pump pressures..

what is the fuel pressure now and what pressure does the spider require?
 

Schurkey

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I noticed the distributor gear was warn so I replaced with new metal distributor.
Chinese distributor? Still using the original ignition module?

How far off is the cam sensor/crank sensor alignment?

no CEL not even during initial bulb check so I removed it.
You removed the CEL bulb?
 

Tahoe_Pete

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Chinese distributor? Still using the original ignition module?

How far off is the cam sensor/crank sensor alignment?


You removed the CEL bulb?
Removed door jamb switch, Light started working again. Yes Amazon special, thought about it and replaced pickup inside. No clue how far off the cam retard timing is, My scanner won't do it.
 

Schurkey

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Removed door jamb switch, Light started working again.
That's odd. You need a wiring diagram to determine why the door jam and the "Check Engine" light are interrelated.

Yes Amazon special, thought about it and replaced pickup inside.
The "pickup" is just the cam position sensor. It triggers once per distributor revolution, and does NOTHING for the engine running except to allow the computer to determine which cylinder is misfiring (if there's a misfire.)

No clue how far off the cam retard timing is, My scanner won't do it.
You need a different scan tool. This is important to assure that the rotor tip and plug wire terminal inside the cap align properly.
 

Tahoe_Pete

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Removed door jamb switch, Light started working again.
That's odd. You need a wiring diagram to determine why the door jam and the "Check Engine" light are interrelated.


The "pickup" is just the cam position sensor. It triggers once per distributor revolution, and does NOTHING for the engine running except to allow the computer to determine which cylinder is misfiring (if there's a misfire.)


You need a different scan tool. This is important to assure that the rotor tip and plug wire terminal inside the cap align properly.
 

Tahoe_Pete

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Is there a link on here to a good wiring diagram or know where I might find one? Also, the PCM, is it Vin specific and need to be flashed and are there any other control modules on car?
 
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