Stuck balancer

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8T7K5

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So I've been working on my 96 K2500 Suburban since last summer. I've focused on the engine first and it's came a long way from not starting to where it is now. After tracking down a miss and fixing it I noticed that the engine shook a lot when idling. It looked to me like the crank pulley was wobbling so I pulled it off and sure enough, the center hole is "warped" for lack of a better term. They're discontinued by GM so I found one on Ebay and have it on the way. The balancer was in rough shape too so I got a new one, rented a puller, and..it broke. The balancer wouldn't come off. Not one to want to mess up someone else's tools, even if they are rented, I bought my own puller. It's now a shell of its former self, as the center hole is cracked and the arms are bent from massive amounts of torque straining to pull the stupid balancer off.

I've bought a second puller with the same results. I've used PB Blaster, an impact, a breaker bar, cussed a lot, and nothing works. The big washer is out, but it's rusty as heck so I'm wondering if maybe the balancer isn't in the same condition and corrosion is keeping it from coming off. Everything I read says use heat around the center of the balancer but I don't have access to a torch hot enough. I'm open to suggestions.
 

df2x4

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I would certainly think so... A quick Google search says that the average air-fed Propane torch burns at around 2,250 degrees Fahrenheit, MAPP is even hotter.
 

RichLo

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I always keep a full can of MAPP on hand for situations like this. Try heating only the balancer first and see if it helps, if it is still stuck heat it up again ad spray some penetrating oil in there while its hot to 'shock' the fitting.

edit, and/or an upside down bottle of canned air to spray the freezing liquid onto the crank
 

Schurkey

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Cans of MAP or Propane are just a few bucks at the local hardware store.
MAPP is even hotter.
I always keep a full can of MAPP on hand for situations like this.
MAPP hasn't been made in years. Discontinued over a decade ago.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MAPP_gas

I actually have a bottle of MAPP, un-used until about a year ago. Bought it when Fido was a pup.

What is sold now is "MAP Pro", misleading name because it's NOT MAPP gas.

At any rate, the iron of the damper plus the snout of the crank is acting like a ten-pound heat sink, so it's probably not hot enough, and if it was it'd destroy the rubber layer between the hub and inertia ring. But since the damper is junk anyway, go ahead and heat 'er up.

You say the big washer is out. Of course, you put the bolt all the way back in...right? Otherwise you're pushing on the end of the crank, and it's really easy to get off-center, or screw up the female threads.

Penetrating oil is going to be useless or nearly-useless. If the oil could get "in" to do any good, you'd have an oil leak when the engine and engine oil got hot.

What brand AND SIZE of puller are you using? (i.e., is it a real puller or a cheap Chinese tool-shaped object (TSO), or wildly under-sized for the job?)
 
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df2x4

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MAPP hasn't been made in years. Discontinued over a decade ago.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MAPP_gas

I actually have a bottle of MAPP, un-used until about a year ago. Bought it when Fido was a pup.

What is sold now is "MAP Pro", misleading name because it's NOT MAPP gas.

Yes, I was referring to MAP Pro. I always forget the correct name because I've never bought it. Still have one of the cans that came with my torches. Propane has been plenty hot for everything I do with them so I've just stuck with that.
 

8T7K5

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What brand AND SIZE of puller are you using? (i.e., is it a real puller or a cheap Chinese tool-shaped object (TSO), or wildly under-sized for the job?)[/QUOTE]

This is one of the tools I've used that is now useless. The crank bolt will only go this far into the snout and no further.

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