2000 Crew Cab Dually “Waylon”

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Z71Hobbs

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@Cokeman95 just did this. He put photos in his build thread. This would be an excellent time to replace / reseal your blend doors. I almost guarantee they are leaking and not allowing full air flow to the correct locations.
 

Wiscoburban

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@Cokeman95 just did this. He put photos in his build thread. This would be an excellent time to replace / reseal your blend doors. I almost guarantee they are leaking and not allowing full air flow to the correct locations.

I was going to say the same thing, as long as the dash is out do a new blend door and depending on how your A/C works consider replacing the evaporator because I believe that's back there as well if i'm not mistaking. No sense pulling the dash multiple times and the parts are cheap enough.
 

JSlezak83

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It’s been too cold for me to even want to address the heater core, so I figured I’d do some indoors stuff.

I dug into the switch LEDs to round out the dash lights.

Here is the finished product. The Cargo Lamp is a little brighter than the Fog Lamp, but not as noticeable as it looks here. The Fog Lamp switch isn’t wired up right now, so I was running a 9V battery to the pigtail to get this pic. You can kinda see my hand in there.

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Come spring time I’ll have to finish the wiring for the Fog Lamp switch. I haven’t decided what I’ll do for lighting, but at least I can have the interior portion complete.
 
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JSlezak83

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Before starting this, I spent a few min searching for some pointers and didn’t find anything, so I figured I’d make a bit of a how-to here. Fortunately the switches come apart fairly intuitively. I’m sure if I looked a little longer I could have found something, but at least this will bring the subject into 2020.

I started with the Cargo Lamp switch. There are 4 tabs that lock the switch halves together. These are located under the tabs that secure the switch to the dash. A small common screwdriver will release these. I’ve got the switch halves apart here.
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I cannibalized a couple of the Neo3s that I have left over and soldiered them in. I already soldered the LED here. I couldn’t get the LED in focus, but I was trying to show the resistor on the positive side of the LED, which is on the left.
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I wasn’t about to leave the polarity to chance, so out came the service manual. Tan resistor goes to Pin A, diode (?) on the other leg is the ground.
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Here’s the switch back together, and tested.
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JSlezak83

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Here’s the Fog Lamp switch. My switch was broken by some junkyard savage who ripped the dash apart to get the HVAC control, but luckily for me, skipped right over this. You can see the broken tabs that lock the switch together. Obviously this came right apart. Somehow when mounted in the dash it all stays put.
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Here’s the LED already soldered in. In all the excitement, I forgot to take a pic with the bulb on there. You have to remove the circuit board, and it’s held in place by the locking tabs the in opposing corners. Once that is removed you can get access to soldier. I reused the plastic bulb shroud to set the proper height. Simple remove and reinstall procedure.
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Here’s the wiring. Again, tan resistor is the positive leg of the diode.
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Lastly, here’s the bench test before going back into the truck.
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Z71Hobbs

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Here’s the Fog Lamp switch. My switch was broken by some junkyard savage who ripped the dash apart to get the HVAC control, but luckily for me, skipped right over this. You can see the broken tabs that lock the switch together. Obviously this came right apart. Somehow when mounted in the dash it all stays put.
You must be registered for see images attach


Here’s the LED already soldered in. In all the excitement, I forgot to take a pic with the bulb on there. You have to remove the circuit board, and it’s held in place by the locking tabs the in opposing corners. Once that is removed you can get access to soldier. I reused the plastic bulb shroud to set the proper height. Simple remove and reinstall procedure.
You must be registered for see images attach


Here’s the wiring. Again, tan resistor is the positive leg of the diode.
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Lastly, here’s the bench test before going back into the truck.
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Looks good. I found that if I put one or two of the blue bulb covers from the door switches on the part where you put your leds in, that it reduced the glare quite a bit.
 

JSlezak83

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Oh, good call. Now I’ve got to go rifle through the trash can.
 

98chevy2500SS

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Looks awesome, I really need to do this to my 98's cargo/4x4 switch. The more blue the better. :D
 

JSlezak83

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Thanks. I picked up the 4x4 switch from the Denali too, so I could practice on that. I had visions of using the switch to control solenoids for helper bags at some point in the future.
 

JSlezak83

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Well, finally tackled the heater core. I don’t know what kind of crack the GM engineers were smoking, but that heater was about 1hr to replace. You can get to all the screws, and remove that lower cover with no issue at all.

As you can see, there was a mess in there. Im certain that this heater core leaked at one point in the past, and previous owner probably used some kind of Stop Leak product. All my flushing must have knocked that out. The carpet was gnarly, so I pulled everything.

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