1998 5.7 K1500 oil cooler delete

Supercharged111 said:

My oil temp gauge would disagree with you. Oil takes longer to reach operating temp than coolant.

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I stand corrected, I have edited my post.

So I bit the bullet and removed the oil cooler. I don’t believe it’s necessary for me, and if I decide to add it back, I’ll go with an external cooler and some braided lines. The whole process was pretty easy, though to be fair, I watched several YouTube videos on the subject. Here are some notes while it’s fresh in my mind:

1. I bought the Melling MFA350 oil filter adapter from a local parts store. This one does not come with bolts. You can order from Summit or Amazon, or really anywhere:
   https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mel-mfa350
2. I used two grade 8 Allen head bolts. The thread size is 5/16” x 18 and they are 1-1/4” long. I read where a regular hex bolt can work but it’s tight getting a socket on there because the two ends of the adapter are so close to the block. I was glad I went the Allen head route. I picked it up at the hardware store. It looks like this:
   https://www.fmwfasteners.com/collec...5-16-18-x-1-1-4-button-socket-cap-screw-alloy
   
3. I picked up an ACDelco PF454 oil filter after reading it was the safest bet to clear the front driveshaft. This filter fits under there with plenty of room to spare - my suspension is all stock. I could probably fit a taller one under there but as it is, an filter flute wrench fits on there nicely so I will likely keep running this size.https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mel-mfa350
4. Be sure to clean up the block after removing the oil filter adapter. With the old style adapter and filter, the block is actually what seals against the oil filter.https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mel-mfa350
5. Not sure what the torque specs are for the two bolts on the adapter, but I snugged them up with a 1/2” drive ratchet to where I was comfortable they were tight without breaking them. I’m sure we’ve all been there - with enough practice you can usually determine when to keep tightening and when to back off.https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mel-mfa350
6. The cooler lines were kind of a trick, but a pick set really helped out here. Since a ‘98 uses the metal c clips instead of the plastic quick connects, a pick certainly made it easier, but you could probably take them off with a small, long blade screwdriver. The radiator end of the lines came off with a 20mm end wrench. I was able to reach in there and undo them without removing the fan shroud - YMMV.https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mel-mfa350
7. It probably wouldn’t hurt anything to leave the radiator connections open as-is, but I wanted to keep them plugged to keep crud from accumulating in there. I snipped the lines about half an inch past the threaded nut and crushed the end. I’ll probably make another run to the hardware store and try to find a plug that fits just so it looks cleaner.https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mel-mfa350
8. After buttoning her back up she fired right up and had great oil pressure. Can’t say I noticed much different in hot oil pressure, but cold pressure was about 10-15psi higher than normal on the dash gauge. I drove her all over the place and crawled under when I got back home - no leaks! At least not from the oil filter area. The radiator was still draining some residual oil out of the internal cooler lines.

I spent $20 on the adapter and $6 on the filter. The bolts were .89 cents each. So for just under $30 this “mod” was well worth it IMO! You might not want to go this route if you do heavy towing, but even then, an external cooler might be a better option. I’ll be sure to post an update - and will let you know if I notice any negative side effects from removing the cooler. So far so good!

This is pretty common mod. I did my last truck. My current truck was done by a previous owner. There's really no downside to it.

thanks for the info!

I agree with trigger I have done a few over the years including present ride

I prefer to keep it when feasible. It keeps the temps more stable. While it helps cool the oil, it also helps warm it up more quickly. My neighbor just did a 6.0 swap in a 1970 3/4 ton and the radiator didn't have provision for the cooler so it got deleted. Were I to shove a 6.0 into my 1500, I'd keep the oil cooler as my radiator can accommodate it.

I removed mine on my k2500. I change the oil now at 3500 instead of 5000 miles, just because it is taking more abuse.

letitsnow said:

I removed mine on my k2500. I change the oil now at 3500 instead of 5000 miles, just because it is taking more abuse.

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How do you know it's taking more abuse? Are you monitoring your oil temps?

Supercharged111 said:

How do you know it's taking more abuse? Are you monitoring your oil temps?

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I am only assuming. Less oil and warmer oil...

letitsnow said:

I am only assuming. Less oil and warmer oil...

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Without a cooler the oil usually runs about the same temperature as the coolant. Prolonged high RPM usage is the only thing that can drive the temperature. It warms up more slowly than the coolant, so the cooler is also a warmer. Even towing I doubt my trucks ever get the oil all that hot. My Camaro has always run 300+ on the oil on track and even when I rebuilt it I didn't see evidence of the heat taking its toll. I like the factory coolers because they give you more stable temps, but you'd be hard pressed to ever need anything to keep your oil from getting dangerously hot. 212ish degrees is where it should be as that's what the second higher number in your oil weight is rated.