Stock 2wd front end rebuild

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8thNote

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I have a 94 C1500 extended cab short bed. The truck is in great condition inside and out and has 205k miles on it. Ive had the truck for 2 years and Ive done some maintenance on it (new brakes, new wheel bearings, new u-joints, tune up, new exhaust), but as far as I know all of the bushings and ball joints are original and now 25 years old. I grease them regularly and the truck still rides and steers fine (minimal steering wheel play, no clunks or thuds or other alarming sounds from the front end). But I would like the peace of mind knowing that everything is in tip top shape, as I plan on keeping this truck for 25 more years.

I have never done a front end replacement before, but I feel pretty confident in my ability to do it. Im pretty mechanically inclined, I have a large assortment of hand tools and a couple of jacks and jack stands. Im considering this 15 piece front end kit from 1A Auto ( https://www.1aauto.com/chevy-gmc-st...MI5Yi9kvut5gIVCYizCh1mUwPREAQYAiABEgKRXPD_BwE ).

Is there anything I should know or any tips or recommendations before I dig in to this project ?

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885speed

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I recently just did my front suspension two weeks ago and went all out. Steering components all replaced a few months ago. With almost 280k miles it absolutely needed to be done.
Instead of doing lower ball joints I went ahead and replaced both lower control arms also since I wanted bushings to be new too and didn't want to deal with a shop to press them in/out, maybe something to consider.
That parts kit is definitely a good deal for the price though. I spent roughly $400 for all 4 control arms, shocks, springs, and spring insulators.

As far as tips.
-If you're doing it with the truck on jack stands then you'll want to rent a spring compressor. Coming apart was fine, but I needed it going back together.
-check to see if your truck has camber bolts in the upper control arms before digging in, you'll want to have them in there for the alignment afterwards
-weather or not you have camber bolts currently, do a search regarding the alignment "knock outs" for some odd reason my truck had camber bolts installed and only half of the knock outs punched out.
-time-wise, expect to spend an entire weekend. I spent roughly 10 hours doing my suspension(not rushing and with some things fighting me along the way)
-oh and almost forgot, you'll need a pitman arm puller and IIRC the nut holding it to the steering box is a 1-1/8 socket(double check me on that not 100% sure)
 

8thNote

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I recently just did my front suspension two weeks ago and went all out. Steering components all replaced a few months ago. With almost 280k miles it absolutely needed to be done.
Instead of doing lower ball joints I went ahead and replaced both lower control arms also since I wanted bushings to be new too and didn't want to deal with a shop to press them in/out, maybe something to consider.
That parts kit is definitely a good deal for the price though. I spent roughly $400 for all 4 control arms, shocks, springs, and spring insulators.

As far as tips.
-If you're doing it with the truck on jack stands then you'll want to rent a spring compressor. Coming apart was fine, but I needed it going back together.
-check to see if your truck has camber bolts in the upper control arms before digging in, you'll want to have them in there for the alignment afterwards
-weather or not you have camber bolts currently, do a search regarding the alignment "knock outs" for some odd reason my truck had camber bolts installed and only half of the knock outs punched out.
-time-wise, expect to spend an entire weekend. I spent roughly 10 hours doing my suspension(not rushing and with some things fighting me along the way)
-oh and almost forgot, you'll need a pitman arm puller and IIRC the nut holding it to the steering box is a 1-1/8 socket(double check me on that not 100% sure)

Thanks for the input, very helpful.

I will attempt to do it the week of new years when i have a few days free. I will update this thread with my experiences when im done.
 

RDF1

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I have a 94 C1500 extended cab short bed. The truck is in great condition inside and out and has 205k miles on it. Ive had the truck for 2 years and Ive done some maintenance on it (new brakes, new wheel bearings, new u-joints, tune up, new exhaust), but as far as I know all of the bushings and ball joints are original and now 25 years old. I grease them regularly and the truck still rides and steers fine (minimal steering wheel play, no clunks or thuds or other alarming sounds from the front end). But I would like the peace of mind knowing that everything is in tip top shape, as I plan on keeping this truck for 25 more years.

I have never done a front end replacement before, but I feel pretty confident in my ability to do it. Im pretty mechanically inclined, I have a large assortment of hand tools and a couple of jacks and jack stands. Im considering this 15 piece front end kit from 1A Auto ( https://www.1aauto.com/chevy-gmc-st...MI5Yi9kvut5gIVCYizCh1mUwPREAQYAiABEgKRXPD_BwE ).

Is there anything I should know or any tips or recommendations before I dig in to this project ?

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Id recommend spending a few more dollars for all Moog parts instead of buying cheap stuff. Moog is gonna cost a little more but will last a lot longer. Ive tried the cheap tierods, wheel bearings, and idler arms. They dont last if you have crappy roads.

Also the suggestion of buying new control arms is good. They come with new bushings and ball joints. So maybe a little less work for about the same price.
 

jaywestfall

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Id recommend spending a few more dollars for all Moog parts instead of buying cheap stuff. Moog is gonna cost a little more but will last a lot longer. Ive tried the cheap tierods, wheel bearings, and idler arms. They dont last if you have crappy roads.

Also the suggestion of buying new control arms is good. They come with new bushings and ball joints. So maybe a little less work for about the same price.

Amen, I did my 1998 C1500 with all MOOG. No regrets.
 

Maroon96

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I did mine this summer. If I did it again, I would definitely have either got new lower control arms or had a shop press the balljoints/bushings out/in. The things wouldn't hardly move and I ended up bending my ball joint press. Would've saved me a lot of time, frustration, and burning rubber to just get new ones.
 

TAF2003

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I'm in the middle of replacing the UCA, LCA, and coil springs with new units on my 1996 Yukon. While you have the LCA out, now is the best time to replace the engine mounts because the nuts for the mounts become accessible.

I went with the Energy Suspension motor mounts.
 
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