95 14bff one legger fix?

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454cid

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I've never owned one but the 11.5 doesn't impress me that much. I'd rather have the 10.5 with discs.....better pinion support, lighter, smaller, tough, and the 11.5 uses the 10.5 hubs which means the spindles are the same.
 
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Chillin Dylan

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If you're this damn sure of yourself then why are you even asking for advice?

I’m asking for input from people that have experience with the 11.5 as far as whether or not it always had a locker of some sort. Or posi, or whatever you wanna call it. I was getting frustrated with you because you continued to grill me about **** that I had already mentioned the very first post. Like questioning why I’d want an 11.5, stating it’d be expensive to have new perches put on it, and about how much I could find one for. I clarified all of that in the original post. Frankly, it was pointless and a waste of both of our time for you to make those posts. Especially considering I didn’t ask for opinions on the idea of an 11.5 swap. I asked which one people thought was the better idea, given the price of the 11.5 from my junkyard versus a diff for my 14bff. If the 11.5 was only posi then obviously it’s a better option, if it wasn’t, it might not be simply for availability of a posi version.


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Chillin Dylan

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The 11.5 got either an open diff or a big gov-loc.

That’s what I’m questioning. I’ve seen that info too, but I’ve also seen people saying that they only had the locker or posi or whatever. And I’ve never personally seen an 11.5 only spinning one wheel, so...? If someone doesn’t chime in that they have or had an 11.5 one legger, I’ll have to assume that they all spin both


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454cid

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That’s what I’m questioning. I’ve seen that info too, but I’ve also seen people saying that they only had the locker or posi or whatever. And I’ve never personally seen an 11.5 only spinning one wheel, so...? If someone doesn’t chime in that they have or had an 11.5 one legger, I’ll have to assume that they all spin both

I wasn't guessing, when I wrote that.
 

92_Bahama

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If you plan on keeping the truck I would go with the Detroit TrueTrac and never look back. No additives, no clutches, just good old fashioned traction. The only time a Gov-Bomb should be put into an axle is on the assembly line. You could rebuild your entire rear-end in a weekend, all bearings, races, shims, new fluid, etc for $1,000 vs a junkyard piece that has seen some miles.
 

Supercharged111

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I’m asking for input from people that have experience with the 11.5 as far as whether or not it always had a locker of some sort. Or posi, or whatever you wanna call it. I was getting frustrated with you because you continued to grill me about **** that I had already mentioned the very first post. Like questioning why I’d want an 11.5, stating it’d be expensive to have new perches put on it, and about how much I could find one for. I clarified all of that in the original post. Frankly, it was pointless and a waste of both of our time for you to make those posts. Especially considering I didn’t ask for opinions on the idea of an 11.5 swap. I asked which one people thought was the better idea, given the price of the 11.5 from my junkyard versus a diff for my 14bff. If the 11.5 was only posi then obviously it’s a better option, if it wasn’t, it might not be simply for availability of a posi version.


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I skipped your 2nd paragraph. Also was reading today on these diffs and seriously question if the 11.5 really is the better diff with the lack of pinion support that the 10.5 has. To determine if it's worth the trouble to stick an 11.5 in I'd first need to see what the common failure modes are between the 2. That's a $1,000 axle in this neck of the woods. One site I was on stated a Max GVW of 8600 for the corporate 10.5 and 6900 for the AAM 11.5. I kinda wonder how accurate that is.
 

Chillin Dylan

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I skipped your 2nd paragraph. Also was reading today on these diffs and seriously question if the 11.5 really is the better diff with the lack of pinion support that the 10.5 has. To determine if it's worth the trouble to stick an 11.5 in I'd first need to see what the common failure modes are between the 2. That's a $1,000 axle in this neck of the woods. One site I was on stated a Max GVW of 8600 for the corporate 10.5 and 6900 for the AAM 11.5. I kinda wonder how accurate that is.

That can’t possibly be right on those GVWs.. I think whoever wrote that on that site is severely misinformed. My truck has the corporate 10.5 and I’m like 99.9% sure it’s sticker says something over 9000 for the GVW. My father in laws 04 Duramax is definitely 8600 and it’s got the 11.5. And I can remember him being annoyed and confused that my older, gasser truck is rated for more GVW but less trailer weight.

To be honest, I don’t know which is the better axle. I was assuming the 11.5 was because it was put under much heavier duty trucks with higher ratings, but I don’t know for sure either. My main thing with this whole idea is cost. I love my truck, but I’m not willing to spend $1000 on the diff and still have axles with 230k+ on them. At the same time though, when I let the clutch out with no throttle input in the slightest bit of mud and one wheel is just spinning at idle.. that’s stupid.


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Supercharged111

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Yeah I ended up getting a G80 with my dually, but hunted down a 9.5" 14 bolt for my 1500 I'm the pull and pay that had 4.10s and a G80. The weights I spec'd were axle weight ratings, not vehicle weight ratings even though I typo'd and don't fully believe them myself. My rear axle weight rating in my dually is 7,500, but I believe the leaf pack holds it back as the chassis cab trucks had higher ratings with the same axle. I believe a single rear wheel truck would have been good for around 6,000# on the rear axle, tire limited in that instance IIRC.
 
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