Stall converter

PlayingWithTBI said:

With that cam you may want a little higher stall converter. If you do a power stand what RPM does your engine get up to? My OE converter only go up to 900, after I blew it I ordered a 2300 - 2500 stall converter (my cam is rated about the same RPMs) along with a 600HP stage 2 700r4. Be careful if you go with a cheap converter, you'll feel it slip and then lock up on partial throttle - kind of disconcerting. I also went from 3.42 to 4.11 gears, cut my times by 0.3 seconds, I was hoping for more from the gears.

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Thats about right on the gears. My Hemi Ram dropped about .4 seconds going from 3.55s to 4.56s. My Express van dropped 0.6 but that was going from a 3.73 to a 5.13.

Tim W said:

I read the sticky about the 60e to an 80e but the links are gone. Whats required to go from a 60E to an 80E? The truck is a 94 1500. Even though the truck is being fueled by a holley sniper the stock computer is controlling the trans.

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Here's a thread on my 60E to 80E swap in my red truck. It's a '97 so some of my research won't apply to you, but the basics are the same. Should at least give you an idea of what you need.

https://www.gmt400.com/threads/97-c1500-4l60e-to-4l80e-swap.38819/

Tim W said:

I read the sticky about the 60e to an 80e but the links are gone. Whats required to go from a 60E to an 80E? The truck is a 94 1500. Even though the truck is being fueled by a holley sniper the stock computer is controlling the trans.

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A few things to consider. The 4L60 is a weak transmission and suffers even behind a stock engine. It does have a more desirable (lower) 1st gear though. If you haven't had to rebuild it yet just wait...you will. The so called "built" 4L60 also suck and are failure prone. 4L60's have a 3.059:1 1st gear while the 4L80 has 2.48:1 so while swapping to a 4L80 is a wise choice for durability it will feel more sluggish off the line.

You didn't tell us what tires you have. Tires will change the final drive ratio so perhaps you should be looking at a gear ratio swap before going with a stall converter.

The LT4 cam as advertised builds power from 1800 - 5800 but you might want to look at stall if you're willing to sacrifice some mileage around town. Warning: Do not buy a budget converter! I made this mistake in my Z71 and I hate it. It is way too loose causing the engine to rev excessively before the vehicle moves. I have since purchased a pro series Circle D converter which is awesome. You should give them a call to get their opinion. They are your brothers in Houston, TX.

Circle D Specialties

https://www.circledspecialties.com/converters-2

My tires are normal p275/60 R15. The Trans was rebuilt at sometime just not while I I owned it. Shifting from 1st to second it shifts nice and firm. The rest are normal. The truck is a blast to drive it just seems sluggish while going into third under "normal Acceleration" Now when im on the gas lets say in the 1500-1800 RPM.. it does great and pulls really well.

Tim W said:

My tires are normal p275/60 R15. The Trans was rebuilt at sometime just not while I I owned it. Shifting from 1st to second it shifts nice and firm. The rest are normal. The truck is a blast to drive it just seems sluggish while going into third under "normal Acceleration" Now when im on the gas lets say in the 1500-1800 RPM.. it does great and pulls really well.

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Sounds like you are still using the anemic TBI shifting tables.

L31MaxExpress said:

Sounds like you are still using the anemic TBI shifting tables.

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Yes. Is there better ones out there?

Tim W said:

Yes. Is there better ones out there?

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You can get someone to burn you a chip that has revised shifting. Dave @ Old School EFI should be able to help you. If it idles well in gear and takes off from a stop fine, I would revise the shift points before swapping to a looser converter. The Hotcam has alot of low-speed torque if tuned correctly.

Ahhh ok. When i take the truck back up to the tuner for the final "fine tune" ill ask how he go the trans to shift with no controller to double check its actually using the computer still.

Tim W said:

I read the sticky about the 60e to an 80e but the links are gone. Whats required to go from a 60E to an 80E? The truck is a 94 1500. Even though the truck is being fueled by a holley sniper the stock computer is controlling the trans.

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The 4L80 is longer so you need to move your transmission cross member back and shorten your drive shaft. The wiring is also different so you need to re pin the connector...no biggy.

Read this info on 4L60 2-3 shift flare. If your Holley system is working properly and asking for full line pressure at WOT then your issue is likely inside the 4L60.

https://www.sonnax.com/tech_resources/106-4l60e-flares-on-2-3-shift-could-be-a-bad-computer

Sounds like you need to check/tune how your transmission is shifting both shift points and firmness etc. A looser converter is not going to help with this matter.