My K1500 DD Tow Pig

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Supercharged111

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Yup, only problem now is the Whipple inlet manifold is making contact with the little can that sticks forward on the hydroboost thus turning the firewall into a giant speaker.

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I can hear loud ass blower and can hear the AC compressor cycle plain as day. It's bad. I'm probably going to have to have the inlet modified by someone who can weld cast aluminum. The good news is the truck will ******* stop now. The first couple stabs I gave had the rear locking before the front which is good, makes the truck less useless when the trailer is hooked up.
 
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Supercharged111

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I had the blower on and off about a half dozen times today grinding away the blower inlet to clear the hb. It's good now for the most part, but it will still make contact on a left hand turn. I'm going to need to have the inlet modified which is kind of a good thing as I will be able to have a significant obstruction removed. I'll also have the outlet hogged out. I tried yesterday but my little air grinder just wasn't getting it done. Here you can see what I'm talking about. Inlet on the left, outlet on the right.

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And it looks like I'll have to fix this next time the blower comes out as well.

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It appears to have originated where the brace is welded to the frame just behind the steering shaft. I really haven't stressed the front end I don't think, curious if anyone else has seen this?
 

Supercharged111

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Got the all OE not sagged out leaves in along with ditching the front rubber body mounts in favor of some good clean used factory rubber. My God what an improvement in ride quality! And this is with cranked bars. I think I gained about 1.5 inches, truck is looking much prouder now but of course I can't upload a pic because my phone is a raging piece of ****.
 

Supercharged111

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So the truck is now restarting and idling much, much better. I've long questioned if it was a mechanical issue or a tune issue. I do still wonder why it wants to stall for a few seconds after a cold start, but am feeling much better about the truck. Cranking it seems to have eliminated the dartiness as well. After my big round of maintenance last Sep/Oct, the truck has driven and ridden like absolute **** and I seem to have just accidentally fixed it over a few casual weekends. I suspect the brake booster had a vacuum leak because the idle noticeably improved after the HB swap and again when I replaced the evap purge valve that was leaking, another vacuum leak. For the first time since I don't remember when, the truck has ZERO codes. I just need to have the blower inlet/outlet modified, replace this hammered ass rag joint, and weld the frame and it's all downhill. The new relay setup was flawless this summer with the engine fan, it blew ice cubes at a standstill no matter how hot it got. Finally starting to catch up on this thing.
 

Supercharged111

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Today I went after the cracked frame.

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After that, I pressure washed the gunk off the frame and hit it with some rattle can. Next I pit a new rsg joint in, and now the truck sits outside with no blower. I'll be getting those modified to clear the booster and improve flow.
 

Supercharged111

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I bought an electric die grinder from HF and a couple of weak ass bits from Ace. Can anyone recommend some good non ferrous carbide bits to hog this ***** out with?

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Supercharged111

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Got some new bits.

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Broke one in about 5 minutes. That said, they eat.

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Less than an hour's work, which includes stopping. A lot.
 

Supercharged111

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I couldn't resist and started fine tuning, truth be told the blending that remains will likely take longer than the 90% I just hogged out tonight. I really hope I see an appreciable gain in boost.
 

Supercharged111

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Before.

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Now.

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Just blending now and trying to make the hogout more consistent. Will check on the inlet tomorrow. The other before is after my failed attempt at hogging it out when I hydroboosted the truck.
 
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