Rag joint

So I was looking on rock auto today and I came across a lower intermediate shaft that’s only 105 dollars instead of 200+ for the dorman shaft and has the same part number. And I found this after I just spent 200+ for the dorman one.

Looks like the ragjoint halves are made of brass .

The Dorman one is good quality. Just grind down the double D flat end if needed for proper fit. Keep the old shaft if its in decent shape and put in another ragjoint in it when you have time to take it apart.

Does that Dorman one have a solid rag joint?

No, the Dorman has a rag joint so it's still comfy to drive like a new stock joint. The wheel is still nice and spongy.

The rag joint has to be able to flex. Thats why they used a rubber joint.

kennythewelder said:

The rag joint has to be able to flex. Thats why they used a rubber joint.

Click to expand...

Why must it flex? Especially on a 97+? Is there an angle there I've never looked for?

Because the steering box, and steering shaft are not 100 percent lined up. The angle of the shaft VS the angle of the steering box, are not the same. There needs to be flex to compensate for this. I think its 94 back, that can be swapped with A C J Jeep U joint but this is not an option on maybe 95 up because of the 3 steering shafts. This will allow the U joint to miss align with the steering shafts and cause all kind if problems. Dont quote me on all of this, but I think thats how it is. I do know that this is the reason for the rag joint though. A new rag joint will make a world of difference. I replaced mine a few years ago. I have almost no play in my steering wheel. My steering is tight as it should be. Also with the 275/60/15s all the way around, my truck is very responsive.

My rag joint is ******* hammered in the 1500. I kept thinking it was other ****, until I replaced all the other **** and the slop was still there. I was thinking that extra joint in the late 400s might negate the need for a rag joint and it was solely retained to further dampen the steering feel. Either way, anything new is better than what I have now.

Mine went from almost 1/4 of a turn in the steering wheel, to just a bump in ether direction. I did not rivet mine back in. I had sone grade 9 bolts, so thats what I used. I did have to grind down 2 of the bolts for clearance though. Heres a pic of mine installed. You can see where I had to grind down the bolts, and nuts on mine.

Supercharged111 said:

Why must it flex? Especially on a 97+? Is there an angle there I've never looked for?

Click to expand...

You need a little flex between the body and the frame with a single joint column because the body is mounted on bushings and will flex and move independently of the frame.