Ignorance is Bliss.

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BlueCollar89

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Been a few days; time to address the latest issue.

Took her out last weekend and got lost on some BLM; ended up a pretty rough 7 hours lol. That said, she faired the trip very well! But now it's time to replace some u-joints on the drive line.

I noticed some slight vibration through the center console; crawled under and shook things around. Drive shaft now has some play, which it did not have before.

I had bought x2 u-joints months ago just to replace them to replace them, but never did. Glad I didn't now that I need too haha.

Any tips and suggestions? I've got open ears. Thanks fellas!

I do not have a press, but I can get my hands on a c-clasper-thingy-majig my dad uses for his (the twisty kind).....*surrenders man card for not knowing wtf it's called)
 

JCribb

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I do not have a press, but I can get my hands on a c-clasper-thingy-majig my dad uses for his (the twisty kind).....*surrenders man card for not knowing wtf it's called)

No harm, no foul there. Now, if you’re spilling good whiskey, that’d be a different story.

If you don’t have the tools, it may be worth your while to find someone or a shop to get them pressed in.
 

RichLo

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I've done many U-joints with a hammer, pliers and a socket set before I had other tools. Pretty straight forward, just be sure to handle the empty caps super carefully! It sucks seeing 1 needle laying in the bottom of the cap.

Take out both C-clips, find a socket slightly smaller than the cap (so it fits into the driveshaft hole) and 1 socket with the opening just larger than the cap (so the cap slides into the socket). Pound the U-joint 1 way until you can grab onto the outer cap with a vice-grip or pliers and yank it out. Then pound the U-joint the other way to remove the other cap and the remaining U-joint will slide out easily.

To Install, take both caps off the new U-joint the put the new stripped U-joint in the driveshaft, lightly tap one cap in until you can seat the C-clip. Put the U-joint into that cap. Then tap the other cap in lightly until you can seat that C-clip and your done.
 

Frank Enstein

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Truth be told, ignorance is less of an insult and more simply not knowing.

I'm no mechanic, but I've taken on the the task of fixing a dud that I'd purchased last year little by little; as I could not afford the labor.

I've got a 94 Chevy Silverado K1500. Wasn't sure where to post this, and given this categories description, I figured I'd start here.

Lets start with what I've done; keep in mind, absolutely everything on this truck was 100% OEM original parts.

Replaced the ball joints, inner and outer tie rods, idler and pitman arms; as well as the clutch. Ok, now she won't kill me anytime soon.

I realize that it seems the majority of this forum is full of entirely capable and competent individuals with the time and money to jack up their rides, and drop $1500 on rims and goodies to make em look cool; but please, save your "OMG, you put tow mirrors on a 1500?" to yourselves, I have no use for tow mirrors behond the fact my personal preference is to have maximum amount of rear view as possible; and I enjoy the look. The mirrors are the only cosmetic change I've done at this time.

What I have yet to do.

She needs rotors, and brakes, and I'm having one heck of a time getting the dang 4x4 to work consistently; I've replaced the thermal actuator 3 times already. I'm unsure as to whether or not thermal actuators are just garbage (after doing research, it seems like a flawed design, as they don't like temp changes), or if I otta just cough up the extra money to pay for a plastic electronic actuator and hopefully solve the problem once and for all (I'd love input on this?). I just haven't been able to justfy dropping more money for a tiny chunk of seemingly fragile plastic.

What is this trucks purpose in my life? It's a 350, and I work from home, so it sits mostly. But when I can afford to drive the dang thing, I like to go down roads car's can't go, and inclines some might rather pass up. That said, I don't do rock climbing. Just think ****** (are we all big kids here? Can I curse? Moving on), Idaho back roads full of 1 foot deep ruts and fender deep mud puddles, river beds and abandoned logging trails most vehicles have no business going down. Round here, just an easy going day with a 4x4. Slow and steady keeps her ready.

I just put on a set of Wild Trail CTX 265/76R16's mud tires on; I'm to po' to put on fancy rims with any kind of offset. I been considering putting some spacers on to give the truck a more balanced appeal. The problem is, I don't know much about tires, or spacers; aside of the fact if you go with spacers, you better invest in quality HUB Centric spacers and you'd better dang well install them properly. If you're a spacer hater, no need to share your lecture, I've done enough research to hear all the woahs of those in opposition.

Case in point, I don't want to lift my truck, and ideally I'd like to keep it stock as possible. With the exception of the fact I'd like my tires to at the very least be flush with the fender with a balanced stance; and ideally I'd like my tires to stick out about an inch from the fender well both front and back. Yea yea, it'll throw mud and my truck will always be dirty; don't care, it's a back woods rig.

Speaking of back woods, I'm running a Cobra 29 LTD WX Classic w/ a 4' Firestick for com's for those curious; pretty standard from what I've read.

I apologize for the novel, I'm not very good at using forums so I do apologize if this content belongs elsewhere. I apologize for any ignorance I've displayed. I'm not here to get into any pissing contests over cosmetic or stance preferences; so I hope your danglies hang low enough that you can overlook any differences we may have in preferences. I won't trash talk your squatter if you don't trash talk my near stock preferences.

All in all, just looking to learn from folks about the ins and outs of how this truck operates, quality parts and upgrades; and lord willing, discovering a solid fix to this malfunctioning 4x4 issue I seem to find as a reoccurring nightmare.

Have a Good'n.
Bluecollar
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Your cab visor is SUM-480112 $191.99 + $20 oversize + local sales tax

The axle lock is POS-600 $167.49 + local sales tax. Those are both Summit part numbers and prices as of today.

I put the Posi-Lok on my dually and it has worked flawlessly. The previous owner/drunken brain damaged chimp had a thermal lock with the electric actuator harness that was butchered too. I have been selling the Posi-Lok for over 20 years and the only call I get is "Which one do I need?"
 
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