Power steering cooler hose replacement

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454cid

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My truck has a factory PS cooler behind the grille. Replacing the lines, is usually replacing the whole assembly. It's available from GM and Dorman. They are both expensive.

I have not pulled anything apart, so I don't know exactly what is leaking. Doing a Google search it seems all I find is GMT800 problems, and those coolers look like they go bad. I suspect mine may just be the lines, similar to our oil cooler lines going bad.

Has any one tried replacing just the hoses? It should be low pressure, so I'd think clamps would work. I'd much rather spend a few dollars on PS return hose instead of $100 for a whole new assembly.
 

454cid

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I guess I'll be the first to try it. I'd probably just bypass it, if I didn't have hydroboost.
 

454cid

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I was thinking maybe fuel injection clamps, but I've already got spring clamps. I'm just not sure if the spring clamps will be enough.

I guess these clamps should work. I forgot that I originally bought them for the return hose on the Hydroboost. Still, I think I got one size too big. I have the 17mm, and I think 16mm would be better. It hasn't come off, Though.
 

454cid

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Is there any reason not to use transmission oil cooler hose instead of power steering return hose for the cooler? It seems like I'm not finding the PS hose by the foot, only in lengths. Temperature specs seem to be similar, although materials are different. My PS fluid is mostly ATF any way.
 

Ken K

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Although any leak can be hard to locate, but start with a good pressure visual check on anything that could be a rub spot. Look for damage from road debris, old muffler, pot hole, etc. Remember, things move when turning and this can include a drag link that rises up during tight turns...then rubs the hose. Look for signs that motor mount is bad, sagging down on now side, same with brakes not bent holding your cooler. I you don't see anything, you'l have to go further.
Get the pressure washer out and give it a good washing to get a clean start.
(Depending on where you live, but most engine degreasers' for years had diesel / kerosene as the solvent used. Get a pray bottle from the garden dept. or and near empty window cleaner then soak it.)
Wipe of the hose and locations where the connection are made. Start, let run a idle and watch for at least 15 minutes or so. If nothing appears, have a buddy, turn the steering back at least one turn and back again with a short wait period between turns.
If that don't create a wet spot, then you can always get some "UV" dye and black-light and try that route. You may choose to drive around the block once, then re-check.
The low pressure side has between 8 -12 PSI in it, not like the 1000 PSI for rack & pinion or 1500 - up on Gear box types. So don't focus on the first thing you feel was it.
OEM hoses will have a "Corbin" clamp on low pressure as these are the type everyone hates, because you have tiny tabs to pinch with needle nose plies. They get a bad rap, but the remain round, expand & contract with the temperature to pressure. I have factory tools to remove these and work great and yes, I re-use them.
The hydraulic hose crimped metal end would be normal for original hose fittings. If you find the leak at one of these, I would suspect the hose is damaged instead of the crimped fitting first. Take you Dremel or cut off tool and get a thru cut side ways, not around. Use a flat blade screw driver and twist, cut more as needed. A simple hose clamp or worm clamp will work but make sure there is a form a barbs are on the ends. A brake line tool can form a small "Bump" if you will, clamp on, sides hose on and tighten.
Worst case, cut it and get a line to re-connect to eliminate the cooler. I never thought that a 5-6 foot total length of metal pipe would ever cool the P/S fluid that much? Do you have a non-contact temp gun? Check the temperature but I can not tell you what to expect for a reading...but you still have a leak, regardless of the temperature.
Let us know what happened. Good luck!
 

454cid

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Although any leak can be hard to locate...

I don't think it'll be a big deal in this case. I tend to keep my engine compartment pretty clean already, so after I get the grille off, I don' think it will be too hard to find.

OEM hoses will have a "Corbin" clamp on low pressure as these are the type everyone hates, because you have tiny tabs to pinch with needle nose plies. They get a bad rap, but the remain round, expand & contract with the temperature to pressure. I have factory tools to remove these and work great and yes, I re-use them.

Googling, I think you're talking about a single wire spring clamp. I have not seen any of those on my truck. Spring clamps are typically the band type. I re-use them. However, what I've found on the steering system, other than the crimped fittings, has been Oetiker clamps.

The hydraulic hose crimped metal end would be normal for original hose fittings. If you find the leak at one of these, I would suspect the hose is damaged instead of the crimped fitting first. Take you Dremel or cut off tool and get a thru cut side ways, not around. Use a flat blade screw driver and twist, cut more as needed.

My plan exactly.

A simple hose clamp or worm clamp will work but make sure there is a form a barbs are on the ends. A brake line tool can form a small "Bump" if you will, clamp on, sides hose on and tighten.

I'll experiment with some brake line and see what I can come up with for a bump, if need be. A smooth tube end was a concern of mine, and that would solve it, thank you.

Worst case, cut it and get a line to re-connect to eliminate the cooler. I never thought that a 5-6 foot total length of metal pipe would ever cool the P/S fluid that much? Do you have a non-contact temp gun? Check the temperature but I can not tell you what to expect for a reading...but you still have a leak, regardless of the temperature.

My power steering cooler is a full fledged heat exchanger, not just a length of bare tube in the frame rail like some of them. Getting the in/out temps would be interesting. I can borrow and IR gun.
 

Ken K

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Googling, I think you're talking about a single wire spring clamp. I have not seen any of those on my truck. Spring clamps are typically the band type. I re-use them. However, what I've found on the steering system, other than the crimped fittings, has been Oetiker clamps.

Yes, this is true. The "Corbin clamp" started out on tractors, heavy equipment and then Chrysler. These where shaped using round spring wire and then in the late 1980s, early 1990s, these clamps where formed from flat spring steel stock.

GM, import and other used them on every hose that had low and medium high pressure, like 60 PSI max on fuel filters. Later, the clamp was "Double Wrapped" with two rows of spring steel and had specs to 90 PSI.

The advantage for the manufacture is these came in boxes with flat "C" shaped clips, holding them in the open position. The simply slid the clamp onto the hose, positioned the hose onto the fitting, slid the clamp where it belonged then used a pair of pliers to remove the holding clip that allowed the spring clamp to "Snap" into place. While both large as radiator hoses and as small as fuel line.

I had the opportunity for me, was to see the manufacturing plants, one for Oldsmobile in KC, John Deere near the Quad Citys in Iowa, then the Jainsville plant GM truck plant. This occurred during the second week of July as the UAW shuts the plants down, the pipe fitters, engineers, parts suppliers came to change the plant over for the next model year or a new drivetrain and other items. They come back to work two weeks later and start slowly to teach the workers on the new stuff while checking for fit, finish, problems that lead to certain changes, etc.

This is why the production date, showing #8 for August, meant it was the next years model. They had gravity feed boxes on tracks, the feed sub-assemblies or single parts being assembled into larger components, but watching the corbin clamps (The tote was marked "Corbin Clamps" the supplier, date code and part number) came to the workers and I saw how easy it was for them to install.

Certain jobs are very repetitive and become boring and ours did as well, but the contract labor group was required to meet twice each year somewhere and we where vocal about the location. Almost everyone there want to go where the vehicles where made. Are request was granted most times, but we where like kids in a candy store. There are things from "Hydrogen Fuel-Cell 5 passenger Mini vans" running all 3-phase 120 volt pan-cake motors called pancake motors that had 3 orange cables running to each. Rear drive, front drive or all wheel drive ass the engineers tried to reach over 70% efficiency of fuel to output ratio, but where at 68%. Soon, four of these research facilities where shut down and the project mothballed I guess.

Refueling was not an issue as a Swedish company had plug & play hydrogen trailers that required water, electricity and communicate with the gas stations register using an RF signal...as most do now. Yep, they are not hard-wired from pump to register now. This caused a TSB with the 2004 Vette with keyless start dealing with RF interference and a not start.

But there are many clamps on the market and use the ones that you have available.

Just seen a lot.
Retired ASE Master Tech / Ex ACDelco MASM
 
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