Hey guys Ive got a 95 shortbed reg cab 2wd . It’s been fun being 5spd but I think it’s time for a change . I’ve got a 700r4 and a steering column I’ve had for years I’ve been holding onto just for my truck . For anyone that’s done this any advice or parts I need to be sure to have on hand when I start this project would be appreciated . Also my automatic has been setting a few years should I be able to just flush and install or should I have it freshened up before I start ? Thanks
NV3500 To 700r4
- Thread starter D Barnes
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upper_tanker
I'm Awesome
Well, if you're going to the 700r4, you're going to either need to make it a manual valve body, get a constant pressure valve body, or install a TV cable. If you don't do any of these things, or adjust the TV cable incorrectly, you will likely burn the r4 up VERY quickly. So, make sure you definitely do one of these options.
You will also need a different (shorter) driveshaft. I don't know about you, but there are a few shops around me that will make a new driveshaft with all new U-joints for $200-400, depending on your needs and wants.
You will also benefit from an external trans cooler. There are plenty of options available, I just went with a Trucool 40k cooler after having a long and detailed chat with df2x4 on here. Heat plays a very big, if not the biggest part in killing transmissions. I've decided to go with -6 an line and hardware from Russell on Summit.
You will need to get a torque converter also. I can't help you much in this department, as I still consider them voodoo/black magic. I've heard of people swapping 4.3 converters in 5.0/5.7 GMT400s due to them stalling a little higher.
I'd also almost bet that you're going to need a different crossmember for the trans. I can't remember if the NV3500 has the same mounting points as a 700r4, but I'm thinking that they don't. I may be wrong.
Also, I'm not sure if your speedometer will work. I'm sure somebody will chime in with a definite answer and possible remedy if it wont.
For your last question.. while it were out, if it were ME, I would have it rebuilt with quality parts doing the typical "bulletproof" (and I use that lightly..) parts. I HATE touching stuff twice and wasting time. That's just me though.
You will also need a different (shorter) driveshaft. I don't know about you, but there are a few shops around me that will make a new driveshaft with all new U-joints for $200-400, depending on your needs and wants.
You will also benefit from an external trans cooler. There are plenty of options available, I just went with a Trucool 40k cooler after having a long and detailed chat with df2x4 on here. Heat plays a very big, if not the biggest part in killing transmissions. I've decided to go with -6 an line and hardware from Russell on Summit.
You will need to get a torque converter also. I can't help you much in this department, as I still consider them voodoo/black magic. I've heard of people swapping 4.3 converters in 5.0/5.7 GMT400s due to them stalling a little higher.
I'd also almost bet that you're going to need a different crossmember for the trans. I can't remember if the NV3500 has the same mounting points as a 700r4, but I'm thinking that they don't. I may be wrong.
Also, I'm not sure if your speedometer will work. I'm sure somebody will chime in with a definite answer and possible remedy if it wont.
For your last question.. while it were out, if it were ME, I would have it rebuilt with quality parts doing the typical "bulletproof" (and I use that lightly..) parts. I HATE touching stuff twice and wasting time. That's just me though.
Your truck "should" already have the bracket for the TV cable on the throttle body. (My 91 with a manual trans does) so you just need the TV cable from an earlier GMT 400. (88-91 is just a guess) I believe GMT 400s started coming with the 4L60E a few years before many GM passenger cars did so I don't know what year they eliminated the TV cable on GMT 400s but I'm thinking it was around 1992.
What he said, the TV cable adjustment is critical! This should help...
http://www.tvmadeez.com/article/index.php
upper_tanker
I'm Awesome
Thanks, that was a good read. I never knew what TV actually meant or why it was so important to set it correctly. LOL
yeah you can do this or, like you said, buy a constant pressure valve body for ~$450
I just did this in my 95 C1500. I used the same crossmember, there was holes in the frame forward of the old holes for the auto.
My TBI had a place for the TV cable and a spot in the bracket.
I did grab a used driveshaft from the junkyard.
Used a Lokar trans mount shifter.
Got new cooler lines on ebay and a new radiator with a cooler in it.
My TBI had a place for the TV cable and a spot in the bracket.
I did grab a used driveshaft from the junkyard.
Used a Lokar trans mount shifter.
Got new cooler lines on ebay and a new radiator with a cooler in it.
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Nice and clean installation.
Plus had to make a bracket for the added brake switch. Ran a GM vacuum switch then to the lock up on the trans. Ran a 5amp fuse from the ignition side.
Also ran a Lokar back up switch.
New bolts for the flex plate.
The Lokar shifters have a reputation for being noisy and rattle. It's true from my experience, didn't start off that much but now one year later it is.
Also ran a Lokar back up switch.
New bolts for the flex plate.
The Lokar shifters have a reputation for being noisy and rattle. It's true from my experience, didn't start off that much but now one year later it is.
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