jollyjerry
I'm Awesome
Dropped my dash to work on AC, so came back to this thread. What is that setup you have for your bed?
HOW TO: Fix Bouncy/Hummingbird Fuel Gauge Needle
- Thread starter ChrisAU
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Dropped my dash to work on AC, so came back to this thread. What is that setup you have for your bed?
I know this thread is quite old, but, my fuel gauge reads high all the time. Not stuck on full, but it takes about 200 miles to go from way past f(it actually barely clears the floor) to the f line. Could I do this and just put the needle back on closer to f? I don't have a bouncy gauge (yet)
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Uso_dub
Newbie
Thank you for this thread...but I have a question before I tackle this... my fuel needle moves when it wants to and normally it bounces around but now it's just completely flaccid...lol put gas in it yesterday and still no movement...everything else on my cluster is working fine but the fuel needle...
Darrin De May
I'm Awesome
Humm, makes me wish that I'd found this forum sooner, I would've tried this fix. As it is, I took the more drastic measure of replacing the little aircore motor with one that I paid $30 for and got from Digital Dash Solutions. Then I followed the procedure in this YouTube video:
That fixed the bouncy gauge, but along with bouncing, my gauge would continue to read "Full" even when I knew that it wasn't. It's still doing that, so I suspect that the sender in the tank is malfunctioning and also needs to be replaced. I haven't gotten around to addressing that issue yet, so far I'm using the trip odometer to monitor fuel consumption.
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That fixed the bouncy gauge, but along with bouncing, my gauge would continue to read "Full" even when I knew that it wasn't. It's still doing that, so I suspect that the sender in the tank is malfunctioning and also needs to be replaced. I haven't gotten around to addressing that issue yet, so far I'm using the trip odometer to monitor fuel consumption.
Anybody know if I can use a stepper motor for one of the other gauges, if I swap the fuel motor resistor for the other gauge resistor. Like swap in the oil pressure gauge after removing its resistor, and installing the resistor from the fuel gauge motor.
Oldblue98
I'm Awesome
Everything I have read Kenny says they are gauge specific with the code letter for that gauge. V-volt , T-temp etc etc .
I ordered mine all new from Digital Dash Solutions and I am sure they could tell you for a fact what will or will not work. Hope this helps.
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Each motor is slightly different with a variance in the amount of wire used in the winding. Go to the junk yard and rip apart a guage cluster, you sill see each guage is different. But you can rip our the fuel guages from a few trucks and see if that helps you.
I got a Denali cluster. Most of the motors were shot. No biggie, I just swapped in my OE ones. All good, but my OE fuel is getting bad too. I thought after posting this I will check the old motors with the resistors removed, with a multi meter and see what is what. I will let you guys know what I find. It may be a day or 2 before I fool with it again. Fuel gauge is just bouncy, no big deal. Thanks for the link to where I can get a new one, and ask questions. I would think the motors are all made the same, and the resistors is what regulates how the gauge reads out.
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Darrin De May
I'm Awesome
That's exactly the recommendation that I would've made! I've already installed a new aircore motor from Digital Dash Solutions, which stopped the bouncy needle. The needle continues to stay reading "Full", though, which it had started doing with the old motor whenever the bouncing would intermittently stop. My question is how do I find out for certain what's causing the false reading? Before I spend $150 or so on a new AC Delco fuel pump / sending unit module and another $250 to have a local shop lift the bed and install it, I'd obviously like to know if there could possibly be another (cheaper!) issue causing the problem. I've read that a bad ground could cause the gauge to constantly read "Empty", is there a simple electrical issue like that which would cause it to be stuck on "Full"? I tried using another instrument cluster which gives the same reading, so the problem is not with my new aircore motor. Any ideas?
Its a ground issue most likely. The way the fuel gauge works, is from the ground side of the circuit. The better the ground, the more the it shows full. Less ground = empty. I would look for a pinched wire somewhere between the fuel tank, and the cluster that feeds the fuel gauge motor. IMO your picking up to much ground in that circuit.
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