My autocross rcsb c1500

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93crewcab

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That is a much harder sell than autox, road course really taxes the brakes. Basically gonna have to mod it well enough to convince the tech guy IF they do case by case basis, some organizations do not. OP how do your times stack up to the others'? I'd be more concerned about "real" brakes up front unless the rears just won't rotate the truck on turn in. How's it drive? 35XX# is damn light and I saw stock seats in there, must be a handful to stay put! :)
I have seen many "sport" SUV run at the track. I would Proably swap in corvette suspension with corvette brakes
 

Arealgloza

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Truck may have more in it if you toss a kirkey seat in there. You'll be blown away at how much more control you have when you're strapped in there. Don't hesitate to blame yourself if you think the truck isn't doing what you think it should. I think we're getting some of that with the rookies in my series. The loose nut behind the wheel is the biggest variable and 500+ hp doesn't help anything in the cones

i agree 100% i'm not used to driving like this but im also not just throwing the truck around the track. i literally have to feather the throttle cause i can constantly feel the rear tires wanting to break loose. The bench seat is staying for a while, gotta have somewhere for the pup to sit haha.
 

Supercharged111

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I'm not familiar with the mt tires you're running, but they could be part of the problem. That and even dreaming of putting down that much power in 2nd gear. I have to feather my Corvette around an autox course, just the way it is. Camaro wears R compounds and is busy as hell in the cones, much better once your in 3rd gear. It makes 260whp. Piloting something with power through the cones is an exercise in patience.
 
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gearheadE30

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i agree 100% i'm not used to driving like this but im also not just throwing the truck around the track. i literally have to feather the throttle cause i can constantly feel the rear tires wanting to break loose. The bench seat is staying for a while, gotta have somewhere for the pup to sit haha.

Thanks for the shifter pics; that gives me a good idea of where it's all going to come through. Might be a challenge to get a center console to work with that in my application; it almost either needs to be further forward or further back, and you've already got the rear tower relocation on yours. I'll have to put some more thought into that.

You might try disconnecting the rear swaybar (pull one link and zip tie it up out of the way) and see if that helps with grip in the rear. It's something that's done a lot for me on overpowered autocross cars in the past where they would otherwise open the diff up or oversteer badly. Yes, it will give you more understeer mid-corner, but with a little practice you can get around it with trail braking on the way in and focusing on apexing later. And it's a cheap, easy thing to try.

If your rear shocks are adjustable, you can also try softening the rebound in the rear (or to a lesser degree due to how flexible our frames are, stiffen it in the front) to bias the transitional handling towards understeer which may help make it feel more predictable.
 
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Arealgloza

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Thanks for the shifter pics; that gives me a good idea of where it's all going to come through. Might be a challenge to get a center console to work with that in my application; it almost either needs to be further forward or further back, and you've already got the rear tower relocation on yours. I'll have to put some more thought into that.

You might try disconnecting the rear swaybar (pull one link and zip tie it up out of the way) and see if that helps with grip in the rear. It's something that's done a lot for me on overpowered autocross cars in the past where they would otherwise open the diff up or oversteer badly. Yes, it will give you more understeer mid-corner, but with a little practice you can get around it with trail braking on the way in and focusing on apexing later. And it's a cheap, easy thing to try.

If your rear shocks are adjustable, you can also try softening the rebound in the rear (or to a lesser degree due to how flexible our frames are, stiffen it in the front) to bias the transitional handling towards understeer which may help make it feel more predictable.


Thanks for the input I'll definitely try it out! I have softer springs to put in the rear to maybe help it stick and the rebound is the only adjustment I have on the rear shocks, definitely gonna set it softer. I'm pretty sure you can convert the t56 magnum to mid shift and that middle plate lines up pretty close to the factory nv3500 trans shifter hole.
 

RoJo2

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Love this thread. Working on mine as well for this purpose. It’s a process. Regarding your fuel tank, get a steel roll pan for the rear and bolt it in... one with a sizeable drop down for the tag and it’ll hide most of the tank. To a lesser degree this will also add a little more weight to the rear of the truck which might help ever so slightly with traction.
 

gearheadE30

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Thanks for the input I'll definitely try it out! I have softer springs to put in the rear to maybe help it stick and the rebound is the only adjustment I have on the rear shocks, definitely gonna set it softer. I'm pretty sure you can convert the t56 magnum to mid shift and that middle plate lines up pretty close to the factory nv3500 trans shifter hole.

You may try putting a small zip tie on the shock shaft to see how much travel you're using in the rear as well - will give you at least a (very) rough idea of if you're in the ballpark for rates.

Interesting on mid shift conversion...I still don't have a transmission so I'm still off in dreamland a little gathering information, but will have to break out the tape measure. Mid shift might be easier to fit if I don't go to a full length Escalade/Ford console or something.

Love this thread. Working on mine as well for this purpose. It’s a process. Regarding your fuel tank, get a steel roll pan for the rear and bolt it in... one with a sizeable drop down for the tag and it’ll hide most of the tank. To a lesser degree this will also add a little more weight to the rear of the truck which might help ever so slightly with traction.

That's about the worst place for weight for handling because of how much it adds to the polar moment of inertia. But of course it depends on what you're after, too - a truck might be competitive in CAM in some regions, but if it's just for fun then do what looks cool. I kind of dig the NASCAR-esque fuel cell look.
 

Sparkysikes

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I had a x runner nodded very very heavily 650 hp on E. Thicker sway bars qa1's xru track bar (check out that design) and additional frame bracing as well as BBK for the front.

It was very balanced and beat many cars in the corners. And on tracks.

I'd add some frame stiffening and consider that your rear tires might be floating. 315/30.was too wide but 285/35 gave me better traction and handling.

Oh AND sub'd
 

Supercharged111

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That's about the worst place for weight for handling because of how much it adds to the polar moment of inertia. But of course it depends on what you're after, too - a truck might be competitive in CAM in some regions, but if it's just for fun then do what looks cool. I kind of dig the NASCAR-esque fuel cell look.

I do too, but you have to admit that a roll pan is a drop in the bucket compared to having the cell out back like that.
 
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