Need wiring help with ls swap

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Raulfelix24

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As mentioned by blacksport most information is on lt1swap.com. I am at the final stages of swapping in a 5.3 into my 98 rcsb. Like you all the information that I would find would confuse me at times more than it would help. What I did to rework my harness was to watch the YouTube video by Brendan from lt1swap and followed along while doing my own harness. Once you get into it you will begin to make sense of all the wiring specially as you start to find the wires for such as tach, speedo, cruise control, etc. my advise is to just start doing it so it starts to make sense. I ended up using both harnesses but may go back and rework it once I am done to make it look cleaner.
 

Ls swap c1500

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As mentioned by blacksport most information is on lt1swap.com. I am at the final stages of swapping in a 5.3 into my 98 rcsb. Like you all the information that I would find would confuse me at times more than it would help. What I did to rework my harness was to watch the YouTube video by Brendan from lt1swap and followed along while doing my own harness. Once you get into it you will begin to make sense of all the wiring specially as you start to find the wires for such as tach, speedo, cruise control, etc. my advise is to just start doing it so it starts to make sense. I ended up using both harnesses but may go back and rework it once I am done to make it look cleaner.
I believe i have my harness ready just trying to figure out the wiring coming out of the cab to mate the wiring together. I definitely want it to be as clean as i can get it, but i want everything to work as it should as well. Lt1swap.com has been alot of help. Im just not finding any wiring diagram from my trucks cab to blend it together. IF ANYONE HAS ANY DIAGRAMS FROM THE CAB TO THE ENGINE THAT WILL WORK FOR MY 93 C1500 PLEASE HELP. LOL. This is driving me crazy. Sometimes i wish i never started the ls swap. but its something im gonna finish some how some way.
 

Ken K

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While trying to help your "LS" swap electrical for your 1993 C1500, the only thing I can, helpful is an actual OEM factory manual.

On eBay, type number; 303057497291, it will take you to the actual "Electrical Diagnostics & wiring Diagrams" book.

It is listed as an 1993 C/K and shown for $43 w / 18 days, 21 hours also with make offer. Sold by wyotraders, a place in Wyoming that maybe selling items for a commission for customers. I don't know, but is electrical only with diagnostics that maybe helpful later if your wipers quit. Just note; in the front of the book, it should include info to help you understand "Icons", "Voltage Drop", Test light use", etc.

Note: Ask seller if all of the pages appear to be here! They note the front & back page are loose, but it's wire bound manual.

The dealer book #: ST 375-93 EDD is printed by a company GM had contracted with for all of their paper service manuals. I remember seeing order forms in the back of the books for $90 - $120 each.

This will provide everything that you need to identify the wires in your vehicle. The engine wiring is Lt1swap depending on car or truck engine. If you only intend to finish the swap as a keeper, this will help for years to come, but also added value if you sell it someday.

All other wiring or schematics books are crap. I can't recommend Chiltons or Hyanes books unless they have changed, but you can never go wrong with a "Dealership book" as section 8, became it's own book with electrical only as so many circuit and do-dads have been added.
Hope this helps with you project. I worked in GM dealers for years and these books are the best after you get used to them.
 

Ls swap c1500

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While trying to help your "LS" swap electrical for your 1993 C1500, the only thing I can, helpful is an actual OEM factory manual.

On eBay, type number; 303057497291, it will take you to the actual "Electrical Diagnostics & wiring Diagrams" book.

It is listed as an 1993 C/K and shown for $43 w / 18 days, 21 hours also with make offer. Sold by wyotraders, a place in Wyoming that maybe selling items for a commission for customers. I don't know, but is electrical only with diagnostics that maybe helpful later if your wipers quit. Just note; in the front of the book, it should include info to help you understand "Icons", "Voltage Drop", Test light use", etc.

Note: Ask seller if all of the pages appear to be here! They note the front & back page are loose, but it's wire bound manual.

The dealer book #: ST 375-93 EDD is printed by a company GM had contracted with for all of their paper service manuals. I remember seeing order forms in the back of the books for $90 - $120 each.

This will provide everything that you need to identify the wires in your vehicle. The engine wiring is Lt1swap depending on car or truck engine. If you only intend to finish the swap as a keeper, this will help for years to come, but also added value if you sell it someday.

All other wiring or schematics books are crap. I can't recommend Chiltons or Hyanes books unless they have changed, but you can never go wrong with a "Dealership book" as section 8, became it's own book with electrical only as so many circuit and do-dads have been added.
Hope this helps with you project. I worked in GM dealers for years and these books are the best after you get used to them.
Ok. Sounds great. I appreciate the info. I will check into that book. Thanks
 

Ken K

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If you are using the original dash and speedo, the newer "LS" type PCM and 4L60e transmission, may eliminate the "DRAC" in your truck. I am not sure if I saw what tranny you where using, and LT1swap needs to know for programming your PCM. Branden is a busy guy, but a good egg!

The sensor is permanent magnet type that has two wires and a 3rd for shielding. The signal is weak but also is A/C (alternating current). The "DRAC" purpose is two fold. It take the A/C current, converts it into an "On - Off" digital signal and amplifies it. It has the ability to correct your speedo accuracy for tire size or final gear ratio change by different methods including cutting wires in the array as per instruction, or later "DIP" switches depending on the year, but 92 probably had wires inside.

The speed sensor can be removed for I.D., then a new O-ring to seal it, helping you move forward, plus you won't loose much fluid. Late 1992 was the first year for the 4L60e and may have two different sensors. Type #1. Plastic drive gear on output shaft that drives a rotating magnet inside a coil or cable only. Type #2. The driven gear is metal with 40 teeth. The sensor has two metal bars with internal magnet & wire coil and has an close "Air Gap" when installed. This is "High Resolution" and this is where they get 4,000 clicks per mile. (You may see this info in VSS description)

On the "LS" engines PCM, you'l see a VSS Low & VSS high, this makes no difference but if the wire color matches, use them. Inside the PCM, it does what the "DRAC" did. It will have an output dedicated wire to the speedometer. You may see 2 more VSS outputs in the schematic, depending on the year of the donor, but one goes to the radio (Gets louder as you go faster), but the other goes to the ABS. So neither of these last two will be needed.

The OEM VSS sensor has a ground wire that exits the harness at the tail-shaft housing & VSS sensor & goes to the frame. It is stripped back aways and touches a foil tape. The main two wires are twisted 9 times per foot. (We pinch one end in a vise, the other in a drill, but never count) Home improvement stores sell metal foil tape in the HVAC section. Tape the ground wire onto the twisted pair, then wrap with foil all the way to the front, then add a ground out to an eyelet to chassis. This ground should run the entire length of the VSS harness. By twisting the wires, then covered with grounded foil tape, helps protect the signal from outside interference like a spark plug wire or high current (10 AWG / On-Off) circuit from "RFI" or mutual induction for a clean VSS signal.

This is a common practice for crank sensors, GM LAN to ABS wheel sensors. Just keep it in mind when planning the new "LS" PCM wires to the 1992 wires. For the most part, you will leave them alone and use them as they are, but perhaps longer. The new PCM requires a clean VSS for 4L60e shift points & down-shifts as it compares it to the throttle position sensor's movement. Pedal to the metal, or coasting down for a slow moving blond in a convertible mode... LoL

Enjoy the ride because you'l have skin in the game and be able to tell your friends "I Did That"!

P.S. YouTube; Monster Trans VSS sensor Types for video I.D. so you know. This all part of the planing. For example, some mount the PCM under the battery box. Decide this early on with careful thought, so wires a long enough. Don't forget dielectric grease in connectors. It helps seal them from moist air & water and sold in home improvement in automotive, like permatex for under $4.
 

Ls swap c1500

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If you are using the original dash and speedo, the newer "LS" type PCM and 4L60e transmission, may eliminate the "DRAC" in your truck. I am not sure if I saw what tranny you where using, and LT1swap needs to know for programming your PCM. Branden is a busy guy, but a good egg!

The sensor is permanent magnet type that has two wires and a 3rd for shielding. The signal is weak but also is A/C (alternating current). The "DRAC" purpose is two fold. It take the A/C current, converts it into an "On - Off" digital signal and amplifies it. It has the ability to correct your speedo accuracy for tire size or final gear ratio change by different methods including cutting wires in the array as per instruction, or later "DIP" switches depending on the year, but 92 probably had wires inside.

The speed sensor can be removed for I.D., then a new O-ring to seal it, helping you move forward, plus you won't loose much fluid. Late 1992 was the first year for the 4L60e and may have two different sensors. Type #1. Plastic drive gear on output shaft that drives a rotating magnet inside a coil or cable only. Type #2. The driven gear is metal with 40 teeth. The sensor has two metal bars with internal magnet & wire coil and has an close "Air Gap" when installed. This is "High Resolution" and this is where they get 4,000 clicks per mile. (You may see this info in VSS description)

On the "LS" engines PCM, you'l see a VSS Low & VSS high, this makes no difference but if the wire color matches, use them. Inside the PCM, it does what the "DRAC" did. It will have an output dedicated wire to the speedometer. You may see 2 more VSS outputs in the schematic, depending on the year of the donor, but one goes to the radio (Gets louder as you go faster), but the other goes to the ABS. So neither of these last two will be needed.

The OEM VSS sensor has a ground wire that exits the harness at the tail-shaft housing & VSS sensor & goes to the frame. It is stripped back aways and touches a foil tape. The main two wires are twisted 9 times per foot. (We pinch one end in a vise, the other in a drill, but never count) Home improvement stores sell metal foil tape in the HVAC section. Tape the ground wire onto the twisted pair, then wrap with foil all the way to the front, then add a ground out to an eyelet to chassis. This ground should run the entire length of the VSS harness. By twisting the wires, then covered with grounded foil tape, helps protect the signal from outside interference like a spark plug wire or high current (10 AWG / On-Off) circuit from "RFI" or mutual induction for a clean VSS signal.

This is a common practice for crank sensors, GM LAN to ABS wheel sensors. Just keep it in mind when planning the new "LS" PCM wires to the 1992 wires. For the most part, you will leave them alone and use them as they are, but perhaps longer. The new PCM requires a clean VSS for 4L60e shift points & down-shifts as it compares it to the throttle position sensor's movement. Pedal to the metal, or coasting down for a slow moving blond in a convertible mode... LoL

Enjoy the ride because you'l have skin in the game and be able to tell your friends "I Did That"!

P.S. YouTube; Monster Trans VSS sensor Types for video I.D. so you know. This all part of the planing. For example, some mount the PCM under the battery box. Decide this early on with careful thought, so wires a long enough. Don't forget dielectric grease in connectors. It helps seal them from moist air & water and sold in home improvement in automotive, like permatex for under $4.
Trans is 4l60e from a 2001 silverado1500. Motor is 6.0 from 2000 silverado 2500. Ill check out those videos. I appreciate all your help. Thank you
 

Ken K

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I have GM eSI (Electronic Service Information) on CD's for stand-a-lone use, but only up 2004. Corrections to info & wiring can be made after the CD's where created. On-line only thru ACDelco is the latest and most current.
Question; Are you using the PCM from the 6.0L C2500. model year 2000? If different PCM and wire are being used (And Can Be), I can get wire info for VSS input and other information not covered or included in a typical "LS" engine swap. The PCM makes the difference, along with the proper harness. A PCM with two 80 pin connectors, 1 blue, 1 green is used in many swaps without electronic throttle control with the last 3 PCM numbers being "411" is more popular with a cable driven throttle. Remember, what ever PCM and harness you have, make sure to write down the "VN" number for programming.

Let me know the year of the PCM and harness you are using as there are some differences between 2000 engine inputs & 2001 PCM. The 2001 4L60e transmission does not change much at all.
 

Ls swap c1500

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I have GM eSI (Electronic Service Information) on CD's for stand-a-lone use, but only up 2004. Corrections to info & wiring can be made after the CD's where created. On-line only thru ACDelco is the latest and most current.
Question; Are you using the PCM from the 6.0L C2500. model year 2000? If different PCM and wire are being used (And Can Be), I can get wire info for VSS input and other information not covered or included in a typical "LS" engine swap. The PCM makes the difference, along with the proper harness. A PCM with two 80 pin connectors, 1 blue, 1 green is used in many swaps without electronic throttle control with the last 3 PCM numbers being "411" is more popular with a cable driven throttle. Remember, what ever PCM and harness you have, make sure to write down the "VN" number for programming.

Let me know the year of the PCM and harness you are using as there are some differences between 2000 engine inputs & 2001 PCM. The 2001 4L60e transmission does not change much at all.
Pcm and wiring harness was from the same 2001 silverado 1500 i got the 4l60e trans from.
 

Ken K

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Does your 2000 Silverado 2500 6.0L engine have cable throttle or drive by wire?
The other thing I checked, was the transmission connector, it is GRAY and the same part # for both 2000 / 2001 Silverado with 13 terminals used.

I will up load info for fuel pump, alternator and VSS soon.
 
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