New guy here, been reading posts here for a while and finally decided to join. I'm considering doing an axle flip/c-notch to my '90 C1500 rcsb. I have the 454 SS wheels on it now, I like them and would like to keep them on my truck. My question is has anyone done the axle flip and used these wheels with no rubbing? I've got 275/60/15's all the way around. Also wondering if anyone has used drop spindles and springs on the front for a 4" or so drop with no rubbing issues. I'm ok with rolling the fenders if necc. I've looked at every picture I could find and searched and searched this forum as well as others looking for pics and info on this subject but just cant seem to find anything. There are probably posts on it but I haven't been able to find any of them. Thanks for any and all help.
c-notch question
- Thread starter LowRed
- Start date
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WILWAXU
I'm Awesome
You should have room in the back. My truck has 275/40/20's on the rear and they clear all around. I did have to trim about 1/4" off the driver-side fender lip (stepside composite bed) to get good clearance at full compression. On a metal bed, rolling the fender would accomplish the same thing.
For the front, the drop spindles and 15" rims will cause issues. The rims will contact the lower control arms when you make sharp turns. Many here have trimmed the "gutter" on the lower control arm to make them work.
For the front, the drop spindles and 15" rims will cause issues. The rims will contact the lower control arms when you make sharp turns. Many here have trimmed the "gutter" on the lower control arm to make them work.
sewlow
Bitchin' Stitchin'
4/6 drop with 275/60-15's all around.
Rolled front fender lips & trimmed LCAs.
Trimmed LCAs. Do both sides. Turn the wheel to the stop, then measure 2"-2.5" in from there. That's where you need to grind them too. This is to ensure clearance for when the suspension compresses.
Rolled front fender lips & trimmed LCAs.
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Trimmed LCAs. Do both sides. Turn the wheel to the stop, then measure 2"-2.5" in from there. That's where you need to grind them too. This is to ensure clearance for when the suspension compresses.
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Speaking from recent experience as I just did a 4/6 over the Christmas holidays... I had no issues at all in the rear with just a flip using the belltech c-notch. If I had to do it again, I’d probably get the bolt in super notch that gives another 1” or 2” clearance though. With the front, I trimmed the gutters and also the turn stops on the back side of the belltech spindles but I still have radius issues because I didn’t want to trim as far back as that picture above shows on the LCAs. I’m just about 1.5 turns either way before I hear/feel some grinding. I’m going to be going bigger soon so I just live with it now. Word to the wise, if your 15” wheels are balanced on the inside edge of the rim, good chance they won’t be when you finish.
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Why won’t the wheels be balanced? Does the lower control arm knock off the wheel weights?
gearheadE30
I'm Awesome
It knocked one off on mine, and ground the other one down to just about nothing. fortunately no damage to the wheel.
sewlow
Bitchin' Stitchin'
Yes. Use the stick-on weights.
I haven’t heard of the super c notch. Who makes those? Thanks for the advice, do you have any tire rub issues with the body?, did you roll the fenders front and or rear? What size tires you running? Your truck looks good.
I must have 500 different pages and threads tagged on my phone since I bought this truck... I need to get organized. Couldn’t find the bolt on version I saw but these are the weld in version: http://www.nfamusmetal.com/no-bed-cut-notches-1/
Similar idea. Basically with this type, you have to cut into the under bed support where it contacts the top of the frame above the axel to make room for the 2”x2” square tubing. The 2”x2” adds back the strength you lose by cutting higher into the frame to make a bigger notch. I noticed today as a matter of fact when I had about 300 lbs of interior crap in the bed that it sits much too close to the bump stops for my comfort. Because I already went with the belltech bolt in, I’ll probably have to go the weld in route when I feel froggy to get that extra clearance. For now I’ll just deal with it. If you go the belltech route (and probably any c-notch route) know that the instructions suck. Also- if you want your bed to sit at the same level relative to the cab as before you notched it, you’ll need to cut out the 1/8” spacer that is tack welded on to the bottom of the under bed support mentioned above (assuming that you didn’t get the kit that required removal of that section to begin with). It’s a very unpleasant surprise when you finally finish up, 6hrs deep, and realize that the body line of your bed is noticeably higher than your cab and now you have to take it all apart again.
As for the wheel weights, I noticed the day I put the 4” drop up front and tried to turn the truck around in the driveway, I popped 3 weights off. If you wanna rock 15s, you’re gonna have to commit to sacrificing your LCAs. I plan on running a bunch of SCCA type of events with my truck so I didn’t want to give up that much reinforcement to the LCA to get full turn radius with a set of wheels I won’t run for long. I’ve seen people attest to running the LCAs cut that much with no ill effects, but I just don’t trust it.
Tires on the truck are 235/75/15. Way to skinny for my taste but they were new on the truck when I bought it. I rolled the front fenders cause I have the belltech spindles and wanted to make damn sure I had no issues with rubbing. To date, no issues at all rubbing front or rear on the fenders. I have the belltech 2”-3” drop springs up front but they are softer than I would prefer. I think I’m scrubbing the front valence when I’m at throttle and hit one of those bumps that test your suspension. I plan to cut about 2/3s of a coil off the factory coils I pulled out and see if I can feel/hear a difference.
