Replacing Power Steering Speed Sensor
- Thread starter my name is alex
- Start date
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Supercharged111
Truly Awesome
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Wrong.
You're more than welcome to provide some evidence to support your claim...
Supercharged111
Truly Awesome
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As are you. Partial boost requires actual effort. With a decent alignment and full boost the truck feels like every other Chevy I'be driven.
Yeah, I strongly disagree with that. But regardless, the fact of the matter is that neither one of us can provide any factual evidence here as to how the trucks behave with the actual EVO valve delete performed. Neither of us have actually done it. I'd be curious to hear from anyone who has experienced both an unplugged EVO sensor on the column and the actual valve delete on the same truck.
Really not trying to be a dick at all here, I just cannot believe that anyone would choose to run the EVO with the sensor unplugged. I have experienced that first hand multiple times and it sucks.
shamrock246
I'm Awesome
I unplugged mine and didn't feel any difference in the assist, Purchased the GM EVO bypass kit and installed it with no change in the assist maybe my pump is not what it should be. It still has that darting problem on off ramps where you get linear steering to a point then any more steering input i get the darting effect. I've been thru the front end and replaced anything that even looked like it might be loose along with the steering box (Autozone unit). I read doing some research that going to a 88-96 steering gear gets rid of the darting problems i might go that route.
BOTTLEDZ28
I'm Awesome
Yes, I know this thread is old but its still good info so Ill add my post in.
I have a 98 Tahoe. I need to replace the idler arm and pitman arm. I will also be doing a new Redhead box. I have felt that full boost feel on the highway about 3 times in the last 6 months so I think one of the sensors may bee going out. The way I look at it is I have a few options here to correct it.
Option 1 is to buy the gm kit to eliminate it. Fight the removal of the pump and then reinstall
Option 2 is to replace the sensor(s). Not sure if the one on the pump is still available
Option 3 replace the pump and get one from a pre EVO truck and then get the matching correct hard line to the box
Option 3 will require the purchase of a new pump and line but it will also eliminate an extra connection.
Just looking for advice here on what would be better for long term.
Not sure if it matters but I have a 6" lift and Im running 20x9 wheels with 305 tires. Not sure if its worth keep a properly working EVO setup on a lifted truck with oversized tires
I have a 98 Tahoe. I need to replace the idler arm and pitman arm. I will also be doing a new Redhead box. I have felt that full boost feel on the highway about 3 times in the last 6 months so I think one of the sensors may bee going out. The way I look at it is I have a few options here to correct it.
Option 1 is to buy the gm kit to eliminate it. Fight the removal of the pump and then reinstall
Option 2 is to replace the sensor(s). Not sure if the one on the pump is still available
Option 3 replace the pump and get one from a pre EVO truck and then get the matching correct hard line to the box
Option 3 will require the purchase of a new pump and line but it will also eliminate an extra connection.
Just looking for advice here on what would be better for long term.
Not sure if it matters but I have a 6" lift and Im running 20x9 wheels with 305 tires. Not sure if its worth keep a properly working EVO setup on a lifted truck with oversized tires
I'd replace the sensor on the column and call it a day. I've never seen the electronics on the pump go bad, it's always the column sensor.
mysery1
Newbie
I replaced the sensor on the column with a simple voltage divider circuit. I used a 16k resistor and a 3.3k resistor. The 16k connected to sensor return (ground) the orange/black wire, the 3.3k connected to +5 vdc the grey wire. Then I connected the light blue wire to the connection of the two resistors. The light blue wire is the steering wheel position input to the EVO/Passlock module and should be about 4 vdc. I am really happy with my steering now. You could use different values of resistors to get varying levels of boost just as long as the two resistors add up to 20k ohms. Or you could use 20k ohm potentiometer and adjust it to where you like.
sewlow
Bitchin' Stitchin'
When eliminating the EVO, you do not have to swap to a pre-EVO S/box.
Just need the kit or the one pre-EVO hard line.
Just need the kit or the one pre-EVO hard line.
