Braded steel brake lines

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Moparmat2000

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People aren't retiring from GM at 40... don't drag this in a political debate
Just what i read it online in forbes i think awhile back. It was actually 30 years and out though. Was from an article from 2009. I got a screen shot it wont let me load. Start at 18, retire at 48. You got to admit though a chapter 7 reorganization of the company would have forced the UAW back to the table, and allowed GM to cut the legacy costs and become lean and mean. Other than that I will keep it back on topic.
 
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Knuckle Dragger

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Just what i read it online in forbes i think awhile back. It was actually 30 years and out though. Was from an article from 2009. I got a screen shot it wont let me load. Start at 18, retire at 48. You got to admit though a chapter 7 reorganization of the company would have forced the UAW back to the table, and allowed GM to cut the legacy costs and become lean and mean. Other than that I will keep it back on topic.

And screw over everyone that put in their time for the compensation package they were promised. You can't ask people to work 20+ years and yank the carpet out from under them once the work is done. Reform is fine but you can't do it retroactively.
 

Moparmat2000

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Thats true, and back when GM was the only game in town it was sustainable. But competition from foreign companies have really hurt the big 3 since then. The talk was about phasing in a 401k with current employees, and phasing out the pensions on a sliding scale so as to not cause much hardship. In 10 to 15 years time this would have allowed GM to become leaner and probably better. The way it is currently without employees helping to fund their retirement via 401K , plus competition from other companies eating into GMs profits, GM cannot afford to pay those legacy costs anymore, as a result they are now cutting payments promised to retirees and hurting them anyway. And lets not forget the obscene amount of money that GM management makes along with bonuses. No wonder the bailout money didnt last long.

Now back to our regular scheduled program.
 
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Moparmat2000

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Well i got the braded rear axle line in place, and mity vacced the **** outta the lines. Still super soft pedal & brake warning light lit. Probably pumped a quart of fluid thru the lines. If nothing else they have all clean fluid in them now, but theres air in there somewhere. I may need to get a buddy to come over and just do the ole pump em up and hold method.
 

Moparmat2000

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I just hate dealing w brake fluid. Its just messy **** thats a necessary evil. On a lighter note my 6 year old seems to think he wants walkie talkies. Drove my wife and i nuts this morning. Over and over wanting " rocky talkies" as he called them. I told him to go talk to the flintstones about rocky talkies. He said ok lets go by the flintstones to get my rocky talkies. I told my wife, i"m headed to the shop, as i was shaking my head and snickering.
 

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Ok so a buddy stopped by after work, and we did the ole pump and hold method on the brakes tonight. Opened each bleeder 3 times, got a solid stream of clean fluid out of each one. Solid pedal, no leaks, brake warning light is now out. I'd say its a wrap. Only 2 things left to do and thats put the wheels on, and test drive. I got a 360 block i need to deliver to the machinest to prep it as my 408 stroker build, so yeah i'm glad this is done. My 6 year old son helped me take the wheels off, and wants to help put em back on. So we will do that tomorrow evening.
 

Moparmat2000

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Well the hard pedal went away and the brake warning light is back on. I really dont know what happened. Theres no leaks. It had a solid pedal the day before. SMH
 

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Well i bled the brakes twice. No bubbles. Good clean fluid. I get a solid pedal until i start up the truck, then it gets progressively softer as i apply the brakes over and over, then the brake warning light comes back on. No leaks anywhere. I am sending the master cylinder back, and getting a replacement.

I think it may be defective, because it has a hard pedal, but as soon as you start the truck and have vacuum for the booster and can apply more pressure it feels like the new master internally fails. No air in the lines. I dont know what else it can be.
 

Moparmat2000

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Well, i replaced the new master with another new one since i thought i might have a faulty new one. I bench bled it with a set of custom bleeder lines i made from a set of lines off a 99 truck master cylinder with 4WAL. Installed it, bled it again, still soft pedal and brake light. I decided to remove the RWAL solenoid and connect the proportioning valve to the rear line and bypass it. Viola i got a nice hard, high pedal. Feels great. That may have been the problem with the system all along after my panic stop. Now everything in the system is new or rebuilt minus the lines, booster and proportioning valve. Fluid is super clean after all the bleeding. I decided to cut the mount tabs off for the RWAL parts since i am never putting that B.S. back on. Brakes work great. Now i can say thats a wrap.

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