‘98 k2500 4wd front suspension rebuild-steps?

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SuperTramp

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I’ve just recently purchased all new Moog frontend suspension parts for my ‘98 k2500. While I’m awaiting their delivery, im trying to learn all I can about the best step by step process to determine where to start with the replacement. Can anyone refer me to a website or resource with good step by step advice? Thanks.
 

Shorty01GMC

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There should be a few threads out there detailing this process..

Lower ball joints will need to be pressed in/out

Upper ball joint will be riveted in unless they were already replaced with bolt in style..

Control arm bushings must be pressed in/out

Idler arm and pitman arm unbolts

Pitman arm has to be pulled with pitman arm puller

Inner and outer tierod ends should be set close to same length

Get an alignment immediately after any suspension/steering work
 

Awest623

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There should be a few threads out there detailing this process..

Lower ball joints will need to be pressed in/out

Upper ball joint will be riveted in unless they were already replaced with bolt in style..

Control arm bushings must be pressed in/out

Idler arm and pitman arm unbolts

Pitman arm has to be pulled with pitman arm puller

Inner and outer tierod ends should be set close to same length

Get an alignment immediately after any suspension/steering work

No need to press lower ball joints out. Whack em with a bfh.

Pro tip: whack the spindle with a decent hammer where the ball joints bolt in, will help them pop out without pickle forks.

Bushings are a pain to press out, burn them instead. A propane torch will work but MAP is better.

Assemble tie rods to match the ones you pulled off, makes it less sketchy when driving to the shop to get an alignment.

Good luck, it ain't too bad but it can be a little tedious. Oh, and rent the ball joint press from a parts store, I did and completely destroyed the thing.
 

SuperTramp

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Thanks for the feedback!

For someone who’s never done this level of repairs, it sounds pretty intense but more importantly, the risk factor of getting something put together incorrectly. I think I’m going to get a few quotes from local, independently owner shops that are close by.


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JackE

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Depending on the style pitman arm puller you get, you may have to remove the steering box to remove the pitman arm. There's a cross member in the way.
 

jsfrmsj

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Let us know what you find, I haven't found a quote under $1,200 yet :(
 

454cid

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I bought a box and paid a shop to replace the box and the pitman arm, but I don't think I'd recommend that anymore since that AC Delco rebuilt box is getting sloppy now. At the time, I figured why pay to have the same box removed and installed? When this box gets sloppy enough, I'm putting the original back in with another new arm.

I didn't know how crappy the rebuilds were.
 
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