5.7 won’t start-blows air back through TB

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CrustyJunker

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No problem! I've wasted many hours working on these trucks, least I can do is share the knowledge.

Improving the big three is up to you. It can only help, but unless you're having charging problems or planning multiple high current accessories, it shouldn't be necessary.

Should you want to replace them, take your time and do a good clean job. Crimp the lugs properly (with the right tools), solder if you have to, follow the factory placement or at least make sure your wires are safe. That means away and protected against anything hot, rotating, or otherwise rub through by vibration of the engine idling. Convoluted tubing / split wire loom is your friend.

I know it sounds like common sense, but a dead short with increased wire size can wreak major havoc. Fires, battery explosions, and headaches (oh my). If you want to pursue it, do it right the first time!
 

SuperTramp

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No problem! I've wasted many hours working on these trucks, least I can do is share the knowledge.

Improving the big three is up to you. It can only help, but unless you're having charging problems or planning multiple high current accessories, it shouldn't be necessary.

Should you want to replace them, take your time and do a good clean job. Crimp the lugs properly (with the right tools), solder if you have to, follow the factory placement or at least make sure your wires are safe. That means away and protected against anything hot, rotating, or otherwise rub through by vibration of the engine idling. Convoluted tubing / split wire loom is your friend.

I know it sounds like common sense, but a dead short with increased wire size can wreak major havoc. Fires, battery explosions, and headaches (oh my). If you want to pursue it, do it right the first time!


Oh, larger gauge wire is a double edged sword.

Since my plans for this truck are to eventually hit the road with it for an extended period time (1-3 years to tour N. America, before I get too old-will be 57 in Jan) is like to inspect every important component to eliminate any initial stupid tax. I’d like to consider the advantages of adding a second battery and an automatic switch so the alternator will keep them both charged. Besides not being able to afford a newer truck, my belief is that buying ($4k- 164k miles) Chevy 5.7 that has been taken care of is one I can work on or get worked one easier than a newer truck. Thanks
 

94burbk1500

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Oh, larger gauge wire is a double edged sword.

Since my plans for this truck are to eventually hit the road with it for an extended period time (1-3 years to tour N. America, before I get too old-will be 57 in Jan) is like to inspect every important component to eliminate any initial stupid tax. I’d like to consider the advantages of adding a second battery and an automatic switch so the alternator will keep them both charged. Besides not being able to afford a newer truck, my belief is that buying ($4k- 164k miles) Chevy 5.7 that has been taken care of is one I can work on or get worked one easier than a newer truck. Thanks
I bought my suburban to be my road trip vehicle. I drive it 2400 miles in a week a couple of times a year, I love knowing that parts are cheap and plentiful and the truck is fairly simple.
 

Flying Skunks

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My 97 Suburban did the same . I ended up changing everything you could imagine, only to find out after that the crank had broke . Broke my heart to be honest with you, but i was at 287,000 miles
 

SuperTramp

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Actually the problem vanished without any additional work. July best guess is condensation inside distributor cap but haven’t removed it to check since the problem quit and cause I have to set up scaffolding in order to reach it. But I’m going to order back up parts just Incase. I also took a member’s advice and purchased 1/8” brass elbow and tubing to connect between vacuum hose and bottom of distributor (I think those were the two connecting points) I’ll review thread before I begin. Thanks everyone for your help!!! I just ordered all new Moog front end suspension parts and I’m thinking about tackling it myself. I’m open to su
 

SuperTramp

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I could not hear a miss while idling. It’s actually running very smooth. I performed a temperature test using an infrared thermometer on the pipes either side of the cat. The difference was only 30 +/- which I’ve read is about normal.


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SuperTramp

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Ok! Just like magic is the problem has reappeared. For no apparent reason the 5.7 will not start. One member suggested that I videotape the pulley on the front of the engine to see if it kicks back and turn the opposite direction after i turn key back to neutral position. I believe the comment also suggested possibility of moisture in the description which I have not had time to check yet. Does the attached video shed any additional light on the problem to the generate additional potential diagnosis from members?


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